Solving Automotive Performance Issues
The Fuel Filter
Fuel filters are maintenance items. If you have a performance problem and you suspect a problem with fuel pressure, go ahead and replace the fuel filter, especially if the filter hasn’t been replaced in a while.
Newer vehicles don’t use replaceable fuel filters. They often just use a screen in the tank and that’s about it. So if you have a fuel pressure problem on one of these vehicles, look to the pump or some other part of the fuel system for the cause. I know not having a replaceable fuel filter sucks, but I believe they started doing this to keep maintenance cost and manufacturing costs down. That does nothing to help you if you put in dirty fuel, though. If I suspect dirty fuel on one of these systems, I disconnect the supply line and run it into a container and cycle the key. This will run the pump for a few seconds and give me a sample of fuel. If it looks cloudy or dirty, remove the fuel pump from the tank and inspect the fuel inside of it. If you see a lot of sediment, drain and flush the fuel tank, fill it up with fresh fuel, and recheck for your performance problem.
Replacing Honda Fuel Pumps
I can also group Toyota fuel pumps into this part of the article. If you suspect a fuel pump problem with your Honda, please verify that you have power and ground to the fuel pump first before you replace it. If you don’t have power and ground at the fuel pump and you don’t have fuel pressure, the fuel pump is not your problem.
I mention this because a lot of people replace the fuel pump in a Honda and still have a problem. The truth is, Honda fuel pumps rarely go bad. In the 20 years I’ve been working on Hondas, I’ve replaced about four fuel pumps, and two of those were aftermarket. I’m not saying Honda fuel pumps are bulletproof, but they pretty much are. Hondas do have all kinds of problems with main relays, which supply the fuel pump with power. They also have issues with ignition switches going bad and not supplying power to the fuel pump or ignition system. My point is, if you have a fuel delivery problem on a Honda, don’t replace the fuel pump first thing; check to see if the pump is getting power and ground first. Don’t waste your time and money on a Honda fuel pump, especially if you’re going to install an aftermarket unit. This is a step backward. If you do have a problem with a main relay you can often repair it. I show how in this video. Don’t beat me up too much over my solder technique. I’ve heard plenty about it already.
Mechanical Issues
This is overlooked so often it’s just silly. Especially on modern vehicles, the tendency seems to be to go after the electronics as the cause of a performance problem. Under all those electronics is an internal combustion engine of the same type we’ve been making since the 1930s. Check for a mechanical issue first thing if you don’t have any codes stored. An engine needs to breathe. It also needs to get rid of its waste. Suck, squeeze, bang, blow: These are the steps in the combustion process. A breakdown with any link in that chain, and you get a performance problem. Listed below are a few ways to check the mechanical integrity of your engine. Don’t forget about these if your vehicle has a performance problem.
Engine Timing
It’s critical that your engine be in time in order to run properly. I’m speaking first here about the mechanical timing of the engine, but you also need to make sure your ignition timing is correct for your engine to perform properly. More than one person has come to me stating that they had replaced just about every part on the engine and they still have a performance problem. Then I ask, “Did you check the mechanical timing of the engine?” I’m often met with, “No, but I will.” After they come back, they report that either the timing had jumped a tooth (if it was a timing belt) or there was some other issue that caused the timing to be off.
Everything about engine operation has its time. If the mechanical timing of the engine is off, everything is off. The ignition timing, the injector timing, all the electrical systems: All of it suffers if the engine is not in time. So if you have a performance issue, check to see if the engine is in time mechanically before you start buying parts, especially if you have a code for a cam or crank sensor. These codes can also be set if the engine timing is off, not just because of a sensor issue. Once again, just because you have a code for something, that doesn’t mean you can start replacing parts. Verify those parts are bad first, and in the case of cam and crank sensors, check the mechanical timing of the engine before you start replacing sensors.
Video Title: Solving Automotive Idle Problems – EricTheCarGuy Video Description: In this Article, Solving Automotive Performance Issues, Eric looks at what can be the cause of Solving Automotive Performance Issues with your vehicle .Thumbnail: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/images/faq_buttons/Large_FAQ_Images/Performance-and-Driveability-icon-large.png
13 thoughts on “Solving Automotive Performance Issues”
Giovanni Alfonso
November 3, 2022 at 1:19 pm
Good afternoon Eric , I have a 2007 ford expedition EL Eddie Baur. I have codes P0172,P0175. I have spent a lot of money changing parts. I have changes everything that I can think of when coming to a car running rich. And the car is still running rich i don’t know what else to do. I have changes o2 sensors all of them, fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs, injectors, purge valve, MAF sensor ECT sensor both Catalytic converters. Can you please help me. Oh and also took my computer to get looked at and they told me is fine.
Iliya
July 18, 2022 at 6:57 am
Love your videos Eric 🙂 I have a Suzuki alto 2011, and in the last
3 years ,sometime, randomly, especially (but not only) in the first 5 -10 minutes of its operation, the viechle stalls when I press the clutch pedal during ride. I start the engine immediately back on without any problem. It might occur
1 to 4 times during those 10 minutes, and then mostly it keeps driving without any problem after that (it might not stall at all in the first place). A side note is that it happens more often during winter. The OBD scanner reveals nothing and no other obvious sign appears (a very rare ESP light might appears but I don’t think it relates to the mentioned problem), but I suspect that its about a dirty throttle body, and maybe a simple clean up will hopefully solve the problem. But before I do that (its a little complicated in my car) I would like to hear your thoughts about it… again, I really appreciate your work and hope to hear your answer or somebody’s else in the audience 🙂
ישראל נוישטט
August 3, 2022 at 4:51 pm
hi how did you rezolve the cars problem
I have it too in my suzuki car
Ralph Bowes
February 21, 2022 at 3:37 pm
Hi Eric,
I love your channel. I have a 2007 Ford F150 with a 5.4l. It will barely move. Max speed maybe 5 mph. It runs good in park and you can rev the engine but as soon as you put it in gear you have no power. The rpms do not go up past 1500. I ran codes and I got p0300, p0305, p0306, p0308, p0316 and p0420. Could you please give me an idea about what is going on or possibly where to start? Thank you have a great day!
Northshore
March 31, 2022 at 5:02 pm
Plugged cat
Eli
January 24, 2022 at 5:33 am
Hi Eric,
I own a 2003 Acura CL Type-S with a 6-speed manual(195k miles). I have a a random misfire on an assortment of cylinders for some time now. I have replaced/serviced the following: the spark plugs, coils, valve adjustment, valve cover gaskets, plenum gasket, EGR port cleaning, EGR Gasket replacement, and throttle body gasket, and checked for vacuum leaks. I was wondering where the next step would be to try to resolve this issue. There is a little electrical whine when I accelerate (maybe bad ground(?)) and I was curious if you think that could trigger that many misfires. Any direction or advice is much appreciated. Thank you and have a good day
Eddie
April 25, 2022 at 11:47 pm
Hi Eric I in need if help if u would please contact me back i have a 98 honda civic runs good motor warms uo the. It hesitates an bearly moves let it set an cool down works fine
Gabe
March 31, 2021 at 5:29 am
Hi Eric. I have a 2011 Dodge Caliber Mainstreet. I have code p0301. It seems that my misfire is turning out to be a serious issue and I need some insight. I’m currently checking all the small things that I know of before replacing parts for cylinder 1. All spark plugs and coils are good. Fuel injector is not clogged, it is working properly and ohms match the manual. I looked at the intake valves through fuel injector port, they are clean. I do have carbon build up in the combustion chamber. Compression test performed on all cylinders shows high readings of 200 to 219 psi (Are high readings due to carbon build up?). Another thing I read is that sticky valves or bent valves could be an issue and I could check doing a paper test. The exhaust is making the paper pulsate rapidly and is being sucked into the pipe. Also I took the oil cap off while the engine was running and there is a loud chopper like sound with a lot of air being forced out of the oil port. I couldn’t find anything that explained what that means. I did find articles talking about blowby gasses but all said I should see white smoke. There is no white smoke coming out. Is my issue still classified as blowby gasses or do I have a different issue?
Jessica Gregory
November 20, 2020 at 3:59 pm
Dear Eric the car guy, I have a 2004 Toyota camry 4 cylinder so my spark plug blew out of my engine it was replaced 4 months prior to these. Should I try to fix it or do you think I should get a new engine? If thats the case ill sell it can’t afford a new engine.
Roberto
March 30, 2022 at 7:57 pm
Erick i have a 2008 Honda Accord that won’t go past 3000 rpms. Sometimes when cold it will trow misfire codes p301,!p302 and p302 or p0300 i eease them and codes won’t come back.
Jared
October 18, 2020 at 11:51 am
Hello @EricTheCarGuy,I am Jared from Kenya,I changed the Engine for my Subaru Lagacy,from then I got a real big problem…whenever I step on the gas,the car strain and just goes off,but as I disconnect the MAP sensor it pick to it’s maximum power.What might be the problem?.
Kelvin Exum
June 10, 2020 at 10:14 am
I have a 98 Lexus gs400. On the most part, my car runs quiet and smooth. Other times, it will have a bad idle. So bad at times that the check light will flash but later stay steady. I have gotten it checked to find out it is misfiring on one side of the engine.
Jim srack
July 16, 2020 at 5:22 pm
Hello Eric, your the Man. Ok here’s the situation Honda Element 2003 replaced Vetec solenoid, screen was clean in old part. Thought it was resolved, however the surge came back even at a lesser rpm before the surge than previously. What I don’t get is if the screen is clean whats causing the surging. Thank you in advance for your response