Solving Automotive Performance Issues
Fuel Pressure Regulators
The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is a device mounted on the fuel rail and is usually connected to intake vacuum. The internal diaphragm inside the regulator dictates the amount of pressure in the system.
Remember, pumps don’t create pressure; they create volume. The resistance put on the output volume of the pump creates the actual pressure. In the case of automotive fuel systems, this is often the job of the fuel pressure regulator. Some fuel pressure regulators are adjustable and you can dial in the proper pressure. If this is the case, try to dial in your FPR and see if your performance issue goes away. If it does, great; you can move on with your life. If not, we need to keep working.
As I said, many FPRs are hooked up to intake vacuum. If there is a leak in this vacuum line or it’s not getting vacuum to the FPR, then what you would normally see is high fuel pressure all the time. In fact, when you pinched off the fuel return line, you would likely see little to no change. High fuel pressure can cause issues just like low fuel pressure. So if you find a vacuum feed problem, address it and recheck for your performance issue.
While we’re in the topic of the FPR a good visual inspection is also in order. Remove the vacuum line and check for fuel. If you see fuel here, your FPR is bad. There should be no fuel leaking out into the vacuum line. Also, when doing your fuel pressure test, remove the vacuum line going to the FPR. When you do, there should be a rise in fuel pressure. If not, this would indicate a problem with the FPR and it should be replaced. FPRs are not usually expensive, so if you suspect a problem with one, it’s usually not much of an expense to replace it.
Hard Starting Problems
Another fuel pressure test is the leak down test. To perform this test, hook your gauge up and take your readings while the engine is running. Then shut the engine off and observe the pressure reading. It should hold steady for at least 30 minutes. It will drop a slight amount when you first shut the engine off, but it should hold steady after that. If it doesn’t and you see a steady drop in pressure, you have a leak somewhere.
One of the most common leaks is the check valve inside the fuel pump. Each electric fuel pump contains a check valve designed to hold pressure in the system after shutoff for a faster start-up later. One of the symptoms of a bad check valve is a long cranking time when you first start the engine after it’s been sitting for some time. The reason for this is that the fuel pump needs to fill the entire system with enough pressure for the engine to run before the engine will start. Here is a video showing what’s inside a fuel pump.
The check valve isn’t the only thing that can bleed off fuel pressure. You could also have a leaking fuel injector or bad FPR, as we talked about earlier. To separate the two problems, simply perform the same test above, but this time pinch off the return line and feed line going back to the tank when you shut the engine off. This will isolate the fuel rail from the rest of the system. If the leak goes away and you don’t see a pressure drop, your problem is in the tank and is likely the check valve in the fuel pump. If the problem is still there, then you know the issue is somewhere in the fuel rail, which could be a leaking injector of FPR problem.
So how do you find the leaking injector? I often find them with the power balance test listed above. A power balance test can isolate a problem cylinder. With a leaking fuel injector, I often see a wet spark plug on the cylinder where there’s a fuel leak. It might also have lots of soot caked on it from running rich. Sometimes you can remove the fuel rail and observe the injectors after you pressurize the fuel rail. You need to be careful with this, as fuel injectors are often just held in by the fuel rail. Once you remove the fuel rail, the injectors aren’t secure and can pop out if pressure is applied behind them. Only do this test if the injectors are held onto the fuel rail in some way. You might do this with a piece of wire or something. You don’t need to start the engine with the fuel rail removed; in fact, you can’t. All you need to do is turn the key to the ON position for three seconds or so to pressurize the fuel system. For the most part, I think a wet or sooty spark plug that sticks out from the rest is all the info you need.
Fuel Injector Issues
From time to time you run into a fuel injector that fails. It can fail and start leaking fuel externally, or the electronics can fail and it can stop working. It’s usually pretty easy to find a bad fuel injector if it’s leaking externally, just put your eyes on it. If you see fuel leaking out of it, replace it. The electronics can be a bit harder to track down. I normally find a bad fuel injector when doing a power balance test. If I find that I have spark but no fuel on a particular cylinder, the next place I look is to the fuel injector. If I suspect a bad fuel injector the first step I often take is to see if the injector is getting a signal to fire. If it’s not getting a signal, it’s not the fuel injectors fault. It could have a wiring or a driver problem that’s causing it not to fire and deliver fuel as it should. There is a tool for this test, it’s called a noid light.
Noid lights plug into the injector harness in place of the injector. When the injector is sent a trigger signal, the noid light will blink to indicate each time a signal is sent. If you have a fuel injector that’s not working and the noid light lights up when you run or crank the engine, you likely have a bad fuel injector. If however the noid light does not light up when you crank or run the engine, you likely have a signal problem and you should focus your search on the wiring and any components associated with delivering the signal to the injector. Some people use a test light to perform the same function as a noid light. I suppose it is possible to see an injector signal this way but I don’t think it’s as good or as accurate. Sometimes the test light will not light up enough for you to see the injector signal. If that’s the case it might lead to a misdiagnosis of the injector.
I haven’t had much luck checking injector resistance. Sure there are times when you find an open injector but there are other times where the same test can show a good injector but in fact the injector has failed. I won’t get into the specifics of why this is, just know that it’s a possibility. So if you’re checking an injectors resistance take the information with a grain of salt and see what you can do to confirm the injectors operation.
One last note on fuel injectors. Be careful of the seals. Fuel injectors often have 2 main seals. The upper seal is where the fuel injector attaches to the fuel rail. This seal keeps the fuel in the fuel rail and directed toward the injector. If this seal fails it can cause a fuel leak. The lower seal helps prevent vacuum leaks into the intake. If during your testing you damage one of these seals you can create a vacuum leak or a fuel leak. Either one is a problem that needs to be taken care of if you’re looking to solve a performance issue. I like to put a small amount of silicone paste on injector seals before I install them. This way I’m not installing them dry and in doing so I reduce the risk of damaging the seals.
Video Title: Solving Automotive Idle Problems – EricTheCarGuy Video Description: In this Article, Solving Automotive Performance Issues, Eric looks at what can be the cause of Solving Automotive Performance Issues with your vehicle .Thumbnail: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/images/faq_buttons/Large_FAQ_Images/Performance-and-Driveability-icon-large.png
13 thoughts on “Solving Automotive Performance Issues”
Giovanni Alfonso
November 3, 2022 at 1:19 pm
Good afternoon Eric , I have a 2007 ford expedition EL Eddie Baur. I have codes P0172,P0175. I have spent a lot of money changing parts. I have changes everything that I can think of when coming to a car running rich. And the car is still running rich i don’t know what else to do. I have changes o2 sensors all of them, fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs, injectors, purge valve, MAF sensor ECT sensor both Catalytic converters. Can you please help me. Oh and also took my computer to get looked at and they told me is fine.
Iliya
July 18, 2022 at 6:57 am
Love your videos Eric 🙂 I have a Suzuki alto 2011, and in the last
3 years ,sometime, randomly, especially (but not only) in the first 5 -10 minutes of its operation, the viechle stalls when I press the clutch pedal during ride. I start the engine immediately back on without any problem. It might occur
1 to 4 times during those 10 minutes, and then mostly it keeps driving without any problem after that (it might not stall at all in the first place). A side note is that it happens more often during winter. The OBD scanner reveals nothing and no other obvious sign appears (a very rare ESP light might appears but I don’t think it relates to the mentioned problem), but I suspect that its about a dirty throttle body, and maybe a simple clean up will hopefully solve the problem. But before I do that (its a little complicated in my car) I would like to hear your thoughts about it… again, I really appreciate your work and hope to hear your answer or somebody’s else in the audience 🙂
ישראל נוישטט
August 3, 2022 at 4:51 pm
hi how did you rezolve the cars problem
I have it too in my suzuki car
Ralph Bowes
February 21, 2022 at 3:37 pm
Hi Eric,
I love your channel. I have a 2007 Ford F150 with a 5.4l. It will barely move. Max speed maybe 5 mph. It runs good in park and you can rev the engine but as soon as you put it in gear you have no power. The rpms do not go up past 1500. I ran codes and I got p0300, p0305, p0306, p0308, p0316 and p0420. Could you please give me an idea about what is going on or possibly where to start? Thank you have a great day!
Northshore
March 31, 2022 at 5:02 pm
Plugged cat
Eli
January 24, 2022 at 5:33 am
Hi Eric,
I own a 2003 Acura CL Type-S with a 6-speed manual(195k miles). I have a a random misfire on an assortment of cylinders for some time now. I have replaced/serviced the following: the spark plugs, coils, valve adjustment, valve cover gaskets, plenum gasket, EGR port cleaning, EGR Gasket replacement, and throttle body gasket, and checked for vacuum leaks. I was wondering where the next step would be to try to resolve this issue. There is a little electrical whine when I accelerate (maybe bad ground(?)) and I was curious if you think that could trigger that many misfires. Any direction or advice is much appreciated. Thank you and have a good day
Eddie
April 25, 2022 at 11:47 pm
Hi Eric I in need if help if u would please contact me back i have a 98 honda civic runs good motor warms uo the. It hesitates an bearly moves let it set an cool down works fine
Gabe
March 31, 2021 at 5:29 am
Hi Eric. I have a 2011 Dodge Caliber Mainstreet. I have code p0301. It seems that my misfire is turning out to be a serious issue and I need some insight. I’m currently checking all the small things that I know of before replacing parts for cylinder 1. All spark plugs and coils are good. Fuel injector is not clogged, it is working properly and ohms match the manual. I looked at the intake valves through fuel injector port, they are clean. I do have carbon build up in the combustion chamber. Compression test performed on all cylinders shows high readings of 200 to 219 psi (Are high readings due to carbon build up?). Another thing I read is that sticky valves or bent valves could be an issue and I could check doing a paper test. The exhaust is making the paper pulsate rapidly and is being sucked into the pipe. Also I took the oil cap off while the engine was running and there is a loud chopper like sound with a lot of air being forced out of the oil port. I couldn’t find anything that explained what that means. I did find articles talking about blowby gasses but all said I should see white smoke. There is no white smoke coming out. Is my issue still classified as blowby gasses or do I have a different issue?
Jessica Gregory
November 20, 2020 at 3:59 pm
Dear Eric the car guy, I have a 2004 Toyota camry 4 cylinder so my spark plug blew out of my engine it was replaced 4 months prior to these. Should I try to fix it or do you think I should get a new engine? If thats the case ill sell it can’t afford a new engine.
Roberto
March 30, 2022 at 7:57 pm
Erick i have a 2008 Honda Accord that won’t go past 3000 rpms. Sometimes when cold it will trow misfire codes p301,!p302 and p302 or p0300 i eease them and codes won’t come back.
Jared
October 18, 2020 at 11:51 am
Hello @EricTheCarGuy,I am Jared from Kenya,I changed the Engine for my Subaru Lagacy,from then I got a real big problem…whenever I step on the gas,the car strain and just goes off,but as I disconnect the MAP sensor it pick to it’s maximum power.What might be the problem?.
Kelvin Exum
June 10, 2020 at 10:14 am
I have a 98 Lexus gs400. On the most part, my car runs quiet and smooth. Other times, it will have a bad idle. So bad at times that the check light will flash but later stay steady. I have gotten it checked to find out it is misfiring on one side of the engine.
Jim srack
July 16, 2020 at 5:22 pm
Hello Eric, your the Man. Ok here’s the situation Honda Element 2003 replaced Vetec solenoid, screen was clean in old part. Thought it was resolved, however the surge came back even at a lesser rpm before the surge than previously. What I don’t get is if the screen is clean whats causing the surging. Thank you in advance for your response