Solving Automotive Performance Issues
Notes on Honda Ignition Systems and Aftermarket Parts
If your Honda has OE wires on it, leave them alone. In all the years I’ve worked on Hondas, I’ve very rarely seen any issues with Honda ignition wires, even at very high mileage. I’ve seen plenty of issues with aftermarket wires. So if you’re doing a tune-up and you have Honda wires on your engine, skip replacing them and save yourself some money.
In addition, Hondas don’t like aftermarket spark plugs. Use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs only! I’ve seen several issues with aftermarket plugs in Honda engines, so stick with the OE and avoid this trouble. In addition, it seems that anytime a Honda has an ignition-related issue, the tendency is to just replace the distributor sub assembly.
Admittedly, Honda distributors do have issues, but not nearly the issues the aftermarket distributor sub assemblies have. My inbox is full of people stating that they’ve replaced their Honda’s distributor sub assembly only to find they now have other issues as a result, most notably cam and crank sensor codes, and sometimes even a no-start condition caused by faulty cam and crank sensors. The cam and crank sensors for many Honda engines are located inside the distributor sub assembly.
Stick with OE ignition parts for your Honda and avoid these issues. It’s frustrating to see people with the best of intentions trying to tune up or service a performance issue on a Honda using aftermarket parts. I will say that a good substitute for Honda wires are NGK wires. Those are the only aftermarket wires I’ll stand behind for Honda vehicles. For everything else, you’re on your own.
Aftermarket Parts
It isn’t just Honda vehicles that are so picky about the parts you use. I know many of you are trying to save money by purchasing aftermarket parts, but to be honest, they don’t always work out. In some cases they even cause more problems than they fix.
If you do go aftermarket, get the best quality you can afford; you’ll thank yourself later. Putting cheap aftermarket parts on your vehicle is like playing Russian roulette. You can really mess things up and make the problem you were trying to fix worse in some cases.
I’m not saying all aftermarket parts are bad; in fact, some of them are the OE (original equipment) supplier, so what you’re getting is an OE part without the dealer markup. With a little research, you might be able to find the original supplier for your vehicle’s parts. If so, this would be your best aftermarket option. Some aftermarket parts, however, are just cheap knockoffs of the originals. With these, you often get in the door cheap, but it’s not long until they fail and you’re right back where you started. Remember, your repair might only be as good as the parts you use, so be sure to use the best parts you can get your hands on, aftermarket or otherwise.
Fuel Delivery Problems
A lack of spark is not the only thing that can cause a performance issue. Fuel delivery is equally important. Fuel and air are your engine’s sustenance. Fuel combines with oxygen to create combustion. Not enough fuel, or too much fuel, can upset this process and cause performance issues. All fuel-injected engines are dependent on their fuel pressure. Sometimes a difference of just two or three PSI can cause an engine to run poorly or not at all. If you suspect a fuel problem, the first step is to check the fuel pressure itself. To do this, you’ll need to get your hands on a fuel pressure tester.
Getting your hands on a gauge is just the first step; hooking it up to your engine can be where it gets interesting. There are more hookups to different engines than I can count, so be sure you have the proper adapters for your vehicle so you can hook the gauge up. If you can’t hook the fuel pressure gauge up to your fuel system, you’re wasting your time.
The next step is to know what the pressure is actually supposed to be when you check it. This information can be found in the service manual, but I’ve also seen books that come with some fuel pressure test kits that provide this information.
Now that you’ve hooked up your gauge and have the proper adapter and pressure specs, what next? There are a couple of readings that can give you a good idea of how the fuel delivery system is operating. The first is just a general fuel pressure test while the engine is running. Start the engine, observe the reading, and compare it to your spec. It’s okay if it’s off a couple of pounds; in fact, this is normal. I know I said that some systems are sensitive enough to have performance issues at just a three PSI drop, but in my experience it’s rare to get the exact number I’m looking for when taking a fuel pressure reading. This might be due to how the gauge calibrated. If it’s low, try pinching off the return line to the tank for a few seconds and see what the reading is. If it spikes, this is a good sign and shows that the system is capable of producing more pressure if it needs to. If you don’t see a spike in pressure, your fuel pump might not be capable of putting out enough volume and you might have found the source of your performance problem.
Video Title: Solving Automotive Idle Problems – EricTheCarGuy Video Description: In this Article, Solving Automotive Performance Issues, Eric looks at what can be the cause of Solving Automotive Performance Issues with your vehicle .Thumbnail: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/images/faq_buttons/Large_FAQ_Images/Performance-and-Driveability-icon-large.png
13 thoughts on “Solving Automotive Performance Issues”
Giovanni Alfonso
November 3, 2022 at 1:19 pm
Good afternoon Eric , I have a 2007 ford expedition EL Eddie Baur. I have codes P0172,P0175. I have spent a lot of money changing parts. I have changes everything that I can think of when coming to a car running rich. And the car is still running rich i don’t know what else to do. I have changes o2 sensors all of them, fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs, injectors, purge valve, MAF sensor ECT sensor both Catalytic converters. Can you please help me. Oh and also took my computer to get looked at and they told me is fine.
Iliya
July 18, 2022 at 6:57 am
Love your videos Eric 🙂 I have a Suzuki alto 2011, and in the last
3 years ,sometime, randomly, especially (but not only) in the first 5 -10 minutes of its operation, the viechle stalls when I press the clutch pedal during ride. I start the engine immediately back on without any problem. It might occur
1 to 4 times during those 10 minutes, and then mostly it keeps driving without any problem after that (it might not stall at all in the first place). A side note is that it happens more often during winter. The OBD scanner reveals nothing and no other obvious sign appears (a very rare ESP light might appears but I don’t think it relates to the mentioned problem), but I suspect that its about a dirty throttle body, and maybe a simple clean up will hopefully solve the problem. But before I do that (its a little complicated in my car) I would like to hear your thoughts about it… again, I really appreciate your work and hope to hear your answer or somebody’s else in the audience 🙂
ישראל נוישטט
August 3, 2022 at 4:51 pm
hi how did you rezolve the cars problem
I have it too in my suzuki car
Ralph Bowes
February 21, 2022 at 3:37 pm
Hi Eric,
I love your channel. I have a 2007 Ford F150 with a 5.4l. It will barely move. Max speed maybe 5 mph. It runs good in park and you can rev the engine but as soon as you put it in gear you have no power. The rpms do not go up past 1500. I ran codes and I got p0300, p0305, p0306, p0308, p0316 and p0420. Could you please give me an idea about what is going on or possibly where to start? Thank you have a great day!
Northshore
March 31, 2022 at 5:02 pm
Plugged cat
Eli
January 24, 2022 at 5:33 am
Hi Eric,
I own a 2003 Acura CL Type-S with a 6-speed manual(195k miles). I have a a random misfire on an assortment of cylinders for some time now. I have replaced/serviced the following: the spark plugs, coils, valve adjustment, valve cover gaskets, plenum gasket, EGR port cleaning, EGR Gasket replacement, and throttle body gasket, and checked for vacuum leaks. I was wondering where the next step would be to try to resolve this issue. There is a little electrical whine when I accelerate (maybe bad ground(?)) and I was curious if you think that could trigger that many misfires. Any direction or advice is much appreciated. Thank you and have a good day
Eddie
April 25, 2022 at 11:47 pm
Hi Eric I in need if help if u would please contact me back i have a 98 honda civic runs good motor warms uo the. It hesitates an bearly moves let it set an cool down works fine
Gabe
March 31, 2021 at 5:29 am
Hi Eric. I have a 2011 Dodge Caliber Mainstreet. I have code p0301. It seems that my misfire is turning out to be a serious issue and I need some insight. I’m currently checking all the small things that I know of before replacing parts for cylinder 1. All spark plugs and coils are good. Fuel injector is not clogged, it is working properly and ohms match the manual. I looked at the intake valves through fuel injector port, they are clean. I do have carbon build up in the combustion chamber. Compression test performed on all cylinders shows high readings of 200 to 219 psi (Are high readings due to carbon build up?). Another thing I read is that sticky valves or bent valves could be an issue and I could check doing a paper test. The exhaust is making the paper pulsate rapidly and is being sucked into the pipe. Also I took the oil cap off while the engine was running and there is a loud chopper like sound with a lot of air being forced out of the oil port. I couldn’t find anything that explained what that means. I did find articles talking about blowby gasses but all said I should see white smoke. There is no white smoke coming out. Is my issue still classified as blowby gasses or do I have a different issue?
Jessica Gregory
November 20, 2020 at 3:59 pm
Dear Eric the car guy, I have a 2004 Toyota camry 4 cylinder so my spark plug blew out of my engine it was replaced 4 months prior to these. Should I try to fix it or do you think I should get a new engine? If thats the case ill sell it can’t afford a new engine.
Roberto
March 30, 2022 at 7:57 pm
Erick i have a 2008 Honda Accord that won’t go past 3000 rpms. Sometimes when cold it will trow misfire codes p301,!p302 and p302 or p0300 i eease them and codes won’t come back.
Jared
October 18, 2020 at 11:51 am
Hello @EricTheCarGuy,I am Jared from Kenya,I changed the Engine for my Subaru Lagacy,from then I got a real big problem…whenever I step on the gas,the car strain and just goes off,but as I disconnect the MAP sensor it pick to it’s maximum power.What might be the problem?.
Kelvin Exum
June 10, 2020 at 10:14 am
I have a 98 Lexus gs400. On the most part, my car runs quiet and smooth. Other times, it will have a bad idle. So bad at times that the check light will flash but later stay steady. I have gotten it checked to find out it is misfiring on one side of the engine.
Jim srack
July 16, 2020 at 5:22 pm
Hello Eric, your the Man. Ok here’s the situation Honda Element 2003 replaced Vetec solenoid, screen was clean in old part. Thought it was resolved, however the surge came back even at a lesser rpm before the surge than previously. What I don’t get is if the screen is clean whats causing the surging. Thank you in advance for your response