Solving Automotive No-Start Problems
Broken Timing Belt or Chain
If the timing belt or chain breaks or jumps time, this can cause the engine to stop running or run very badly. So if you have a no-start condition and you know you have spark and fuel, the next thing to check might be the mechanical timing of the engine. You can usually do this by removing a cover or inspection plate. One other quick check is to remove the distributor cap (if equipped) and crank the engine. If the rotor does not spin when you do this, you likely have a broken timing belt or chain. If the engine is out of time or breaks a belt, repair it, then recheck for your no-start issue.
You might be concerned that engine damage was done if you jumped time, and you’d be right to have that concern, but the truth is, no matter what, you’re going to have to fix the timing first. When I’m confronted with this issue, I often replace the broken belt or chain and try to start the engine. If I have a compression loss at that point due to bent valves, then I start digging into removing the cylinder head. If the engine runs, I call it a win and move on.
My point here is don’t worry about bent valves until you know you have them. You won’t know you have bent valves until you have everything back in time and you try to start the engine. This brings us to our next topic: no compression.
No Compression
A number of things can cause an engine to lose compression, and just about all of them involve mechanical failure of some kind. Either the engine is out of time as described above or there are bent or broken internal parts that bleed off compression. So, bent valves, a hole in the top of the piston, or broken piston rings can cause a loss of compression that can equate to a no-start condition. To check for this, run a compression test. Here’s a video on how to perform that.
If you have low or no compression, it’s good to know the cause. For that, you could do a leak down test to find out where your compression is going. Here’s a video on that procedure.
A Flooded Engine
There is something else that can cause a loss of compression that does not involve a mechanical failure. Your cylinders can actually lose compression due to too much fuel getting into the cylinder; this is referred to as flooding. This washes the oil away from the cylinder walls, so the piston rings can’t seal. When you try to start an engine with this condition, it spins very fast and doesn’t sound normal at all. It sounds like it has no compression. A quick way to confirm this is to remove the spark plugs. If they’re wet with fuel, you might have a flooded engine. A flooded engine has no compression, hence the no-start. Remove the spark plugs and leave them out to dry.
Once you’ve done that or once you install new plugs, you need to start the engine in a special way called “clear flood mode”. On a fuel-injected engine, if you depress the gas pedal, usually past 80%, the fuel system goes into what’s called clear-flood mode. During this time, the computer shuts off the fuel injectors so no more fuel is delivered while you crank the engine; hence, you can clear the flood. I usually jump in, mash the gas to the floor and start cranking. Don’t crank for too long at a time, because you can burn up a starter doing this.
After a few cranks, you might notice the engine trying to start. Keep cranking till it does. Once it starts, there will likely be a big cloud of smoke and a lot of fumes, so be sure to do this in a well-ventilated area. Probably the most common cause of this failure is short tripping, meaning driving a short distance and shutting the engine off. This does not allow for a full warm-up and fools the fuel injection system when you go to restart it later. It adds too much fuel, and thus you get the flooded condition. This happens a lot on Hondas. I can’t tell you how many times a car gets towed into the shop only for me to crank it in clear-flood mode for a bit and fire up. This really freaks tow-truck drivers out BTW.
Other Causes of a No-Start
I have a few additions to the information in this article. The main thing I want to mention is security systems. I’ve had plenty of issues with aftermarket security systems causing no-starts. If you have an aftermarket security system and a no-start condition you’re trying to determine the cause of, be sure to include a look at the security system.
Also, some factory security systems can cause a no-start because they don’t recognize your key. The way many of these systems operate is by talking to your key when you try to start the vehicle. If the security system doesn’t recognize your key, it will disable some vital part of the engine management system and your engine won’t start. Obviously, this is to prevent theft, but there are times when these systems fail and cause a no-start condition. Usually when this happens you see a flashing light on the dash indicating that the security system has disabled the vehicle.
Honestly, the best way to handle this is to take it to a dealer. These systems are proprietary and are set up to only work with factory equipment. Some independent shops are equipped to handle situations like this, but not many. Be sure to call ahead and ask if the shop you’re taking your no-start to is capable of communicating with the immobilizer system on your vehicle. If not, they won’t be able to service the system and you’ll have to take it to someone who can. There might be a workaround somewhere for your vehicle, but you’ll have to do your own research to find that out.
I hope this information was useful to you. If you didn’t find what you were looking for, type a few key words into the search at the bottom of the page. You can even type in specific check engine light codes. In addition to the code meaning, you might find articles and forum posts that pertain to that code. If nothing comes up for your issue, sign up for our forum and ask your question there. We’ll be happy to help if we can. It’s free; all you need is a valid email address. Just be sure to respond to the confirmation email to complete your registration. If you don’t see the confirmation email, check your spam or bulk folder.
Stay Dirty
ETCG
Written By EricTheCarGuy
Edited By Julie Hucke
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10 thoughts on “Solving Automotive No-Start Problems”
Ashley
July 12, 2023 at 5:19 pm
Hi I need help with my Ford edge
Sergio Perez
October 11, 2021 at 11:13 am
Hello I have a 2009 dodge journey with 3.5 my question is how do u remove the crankshaft sensor when it breaks inside and there is no room to remove it and no videos in youtube . Thank u
mark lavrack
May 9, 2021 at 7:58 am
Hello: I have a 2008 Acura Tl with a j32a3. I recently viewed your video on the timing belt service on a similar vehicle you own. Please take out all those parts you just installed. I purchased my vehicle two years ago and knowing how important to do these timing change service I purchased a supposedly genuine kit on ebay. I took it to an ase mechanic and he installed it. Well after 20,000 miles something failed. The cams are not rotating while trying to start. Took off the front timing belt cover and too much slack. I like to work on my cars, but to nervous to do the timing belt service, knowing how important this is. I ruined my engine. Just wanted to warn you not to buy this junk china parts. Breaks my heart, just love this vehicle.
Peter
April 28, 2020 at 1:49 am
1998 Acura Integra automatic need help please!!!!!!
No start
Will start with brake cleaner and stay running
No injector pulse (no ground side)
No injector pulse while cranking
Has voltage on power side
Check injectors 11 ohms
Check fuel pressure 45psi
Refill with new gas,drain old gas
Car won’t start while cranking unless I spray some brake cleaner into intake. It will keep running when it starts. I check injector pulse, no ground side pulse from ecu. Injectors were all 11 ohms. Fuel pressure was 45psi. The rpm gauage works. What control the firing up of the injectors ? I am pretty lost rite now. Can someone show me some light? Please. Can it be a faulty ecu? Or bad maybe an bad crank sensor? Thanks appreciate it
brett weisensel
March 1, 2021 at 12:07 pm
I have the same issue on my prelude. Did you figure it out? If so, could you please let me know what you found. I have spark, pressure at the fuel rail, and no injector pulse…..
Alejandro Anaya
April 10, 2020 at 5:50 pm
I have a 2002 Honda Accord SE Automatic. I have a no crank no start issue. When I turn the key to the start position I just hear a singular click. Took the starter to get looked at and it’s in working order. Battery works as well. Suspecting a bad ground? Or bad battery cables? Or something? I have a video of the click sound please feel free to hit up my email @alejandroanaya33@yahoo.com
Malik
March 29, 2020 at 1:45 am
I have a 1966 mustang coupe 302. I drove it to a friends house then that next morning only turning over no start. I changed the coil and wires. Still nothing I also cleaned the rotor and the car started up for around 3 minutes or so then died again.. at this point I’m stumped on what to do. I also have electronic ignition no points or condenser so there’s that.
Malik
March 29, 2020 at 1:36 am
I have a 1966 mustang coupe 302 5.0 v8. My problem is that i drove to a friends house then the next morning i went to leave and I’m getting a no start issue. Replaced the wires and coil and i have found that i do get spark at the coil but besides that it just turns over. However i did clean the distributor rotor with some sandpaper and it started for like 3 minutes then died. I plan to get a new cap and rotor tomorrow but I’m stumped as of where to look now. I also have electronic ignition so it can’t be a points and condenser problem
Kameron Mathews
March 7, 2020 at 11:23 pm
So I have a 97 civic hatchback with a d16y7 and I replaced my timing belt and now it won’t start. No crank no start. Do you think it could be my distributor. The accessories still work like my radio and stuff.
Malik Cornist
March 29, 2020 at 1:36 am
Check timing?