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Hey guys/gals,
Recently inherited a pretty substantial Power Acoustik monoblock class-D amp. Connected it to my car and to much dismay, no sound but does pass the power voltage test. After DMMing everything audio output related to no avail, I opened it up and saw that the speaker connection to the board was broken! No wonder this amp was a freebie. I’ve done hours of online reading, but none quite hit this issue. So a few questions if anyone has experience or tips. Photos below for a better understanding of the break.How would you approach this if you were decent at soldering (which I’m not) with that capacitor being in such close proximity? It’s literally 4mm away from the broken connection. I found something called “Silver Epoxy” that sells for $40, has supposed excellent electrical conductivity, apparently bonds very strong and doesn’t require too much heat to cure. Does anyone have experience with this product and would it fit this application?
The soldering points on the bottom of the board look strong and the breaks on the connection are very clean and form-fittable. This amp is rated to run around 1200w RMS x 1 @ 4ohms so I’d like to make sure this fixit will be safe. I realize soldering is the correct way to approach this, but with my lack of experience, I don’t know if I should risk throwing anything hot that close to a cap that size. I also rather not completely disassemble the board and start desoldering components to re-attach this speaker connection. Any experience, thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. I’d hate to junk this amp because I’m too deep into diagnostics, got it for free, and it feels and looks like a pretty sweet piece of equipment.
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Can you try and repost the pictures? The links are broken. I may be able to point you in the right direction. Soldering would be best and it’s not too difficult.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
Was wondering why they attached like that and if they worked. I rigged up a test connection and it turned out to be that broken output. So happy and pumped to get this up and running. Hopefully these photos attach. Ohh, it would help to “Insert” them into the message. Wow, brain fart.
It looks like you need to remove the board from the case and solder the connections from the back. You should be able to achieve that with thin solder and a soldering GUN.
Yeah, the idea was to keep the board as is so I didn’t have to hassle through a write-up of how everything came off and back together while dealing with the part # that probably doesn’t exist anymore. I do have a plan tho. I’m going to break off the other piece of metal from the board then solder both broken pieces to the speaker connector. Then somehow solder that piece back to the board. The biggest risk is getting that connection nice and tight so it still maintains its original electrical conductivity (which it probably won’t).
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