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We inherited last year, a 2001 Town Car with 67k miles. It mostly sat in the garage in Navarre, Florida, only being driven at the urging of her machinist neighbor across the street. When it was clear we were taking it home, I inspected and drove it around the block and to O’Reilly’s Auto Parts. In the parking lot, smelled hot brake lining in front left. Real hot! Limped it to the auto guy Mother-in-Law used for years. Trust him very much. Said unable to find any issues. Good to drive to home (600 miles). Did that without issues – new name for car Granny Mobil. My name Pimp Mobil! Thing had been maintained impeccably. Drove it to Belle, Missouri for eclipse. No problems sometimes 80mph on 10 year old tires – Yikes!
Last week went to grocery store. Got back to 500 degree rear rotors/disc. Okay, sticking? RockAuto got 300 of my dollars – new rotors, caliper seals, brake lines, pads. Better than the $1,200-$1,600 for local repair. Right? I’ve not done heavy car work in 50 some odd years. 1st, could not get front rotors off due to stuck (all) caliper bracket bolts. Either 19mm or 3/4″ fit somewhat loose on rusted bolts. Tried the rust buster, hammer routine. Starting to round off with 18″ break bar. Was never room for an impact wrench. Thank God the front rotors are in spec. Will leave them on and eat the 80 bucks on front.
Now to the gist of the note. The left rear caliper would not release the piston. No way, no how. 120psi air, vise – no budge. Ordered new caliper – waiting. Question. Some say use brake fluid to assemble piston into square o-ring of caliper. Others say bad idea due to brake fluid getting in front of seal out to dust seal. Attracts water. So spending many, many minutes on web, Found Raybestos BAF-12 Hydraulic Brake Cylinder Assembly Fluid (amazon $20/12oz), and some Toyota lithium soap base glycol grease (dealer $15/100grams) & Russian sites on EBay).
So is this the only grease and fluids I’ll need?
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If I understand your question, you should be able to use brake fluid to assemble the calipers. There should be no harm done there. But you did buy assembled calipers, right? Not sure I have seen a caliper for sale without the piston installed. Other than that, I have always used standard silicone brake grease to lube the slides and pad ears. Not sure the special stuff you bought is necessary – especially for a car of that age.
Only one new assembled caliper due to the one that the piston could not be removed. All the other three get new seal kits (dust & piston seal). All the pistons and bores look good – polished them with black compound, polishing wheel and cleaned with Brake-Kleen. Advised that assembling the pistons/seals with brake fluid is done but that because it is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air), you do not want it in front of the piston seal. The CRC stuff is the brake grease for all metal to metal brake components. Haven’t done a brake job since the late ’60s. Don’t want to have to do another one on this old car that will most likely see 99% driveway time. So in essence, you say this stuff will be all I need except of course for 4 qt. brake fluid. Found this long vid that talks about different fluids. Guy went through some tedious experimentation. I’m just trying to get some confirmation from some of you that turn a lot of wrenches.
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