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I did drain the cooling system for a timing belt change. And when I did refill the system the radiator fan doesn’t come on, and the cooling is blowing coolant from the cap. But the gauge of the dash board doesn’t move from the middle. And when I did bleed the system both fans where running, I never got the radiator fan running only. I am driving the car with the A/C on to get both fun running.
Here is what I’ve done so far:
1. Checked fuses under dash and under hood, working good.
2. Tested relay, by removing it and checking for continuity on terminal #1 and #2, while applying battery power to terminal #3 and ground to terminal #3, working good.
3 .Jumped the two wires going to the fan switch and fan turned on.
4 .Measured voltage between the #1terminal of the radiator fan relay and body ground, 11 volts.
5. with ignition on II checked the voltage between the #3 terminal of the radiator fan relay and body ground = 11 volts.
6.Checked for continuity between the #2 terminal of the radiator fan relay and the #2 terminal of the radiator fan motor – 2 pins connector, got continuity.
7. Checked for continuity between the #1 terminal of the radiator fan motor – 2 pins connector – and body ground, got continuity.
8.Measured the voltage between the #2 terminal of the radiator fan switch – 2 pins connector – and body ground = 11 volts.
9. Removed the yel/grn wires connector from the “coolant temperature sending unit” and turned ignition to II position and grounded it, the needle on the dash moved up to the hot position. And when I am driving the car it stays in the middle range, never got to the high range.
10. tested the “radiator fan switch” with hot water and I got continuity from the 2 pins terminals.
11. I run the engine at 1500 rpm and again both fans came on.
And, I did change this parts looking for the solution: Thermostat, Radiator fan switch, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT), radiator cap.
I did a troubleshooting, see pictures below, which is telling me that I have an open in a GRN wire. I looked for that wire from the “Under-hood fuse/relay box, and I was expecting to find a solid green wire, but I only saw a green wire with some grey spots. At this point I don’t what else to do. I will appreciate any help. Thanks.
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Replies
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I did drain the cooling system for a timing belt change. And when I did refill the system the radiator fan doesn’t come on, and the cooling is blowing coolant from the cap. But the gauge of the dash board doesn’t move from the middle. And when I did bleed the system both fans where running, I never got the radiator fan running only. I am driving the car with the A/C on to get both fun running.
Here is what I’ve done so far:
1. Checked fuses under dash and under hood, working good.
2. Tested relay, by removing it and checking for continuity on terminal #1 and #2, while applying battery power to terminal #3 and ground to terminal #3, working good.
3 .Jumped the two wires going to the fan switch and fan turned on.
4 .Measured voltage between the #1terminal of the radiator fan relay and body ground, 11 volts.
5. with ignition on II checked the voltage between the #3 terminal of the radiator fan relay and body ground = 11 volts.
6.Checked for continuity between the #2 terminal of the radiator fan relay and the #2 terminal of the radiator fan motor – 2 pins connector, got continuity.
7. Checked for continuity between the #1 terminal of the radiator fan motor – 2 pins connector – and body ground, got continuity.
8.Measured the voltage between the #2 terminal of the radiator fan switch – 2 pins connector – and body ground = 11 volts.
9. Removed the yel/grn wires connector from the “coolant temperature sending unit” and turned ignition to II position and grounded it, the needle on the dash moved up to the hot position. And when I am driving the car it stays in the middle range, never got to the high range.
10. tested the “radiator fan switch” with hot water and I got continuity from the 2 pins terminals.
11. I run the engine at 1500 rpm and again both fans came on.
And, I did change this parts looking for the solution: Thermostat, Radiator fan switch, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT), radiator cap.
I did a troubleshooting, see pictures below, which is telling me that I have an open in a GRN wire. I looked for that wire from the “Under-hood fuse/relay box, and I was expecting to find a solid green wire, but I only saw a green wire with some grey spots. At this point I don’t what else to do. I will appreciate any help. Thanks.
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