Menu
  • Home
  • Topic
  • AC Repair (Part 1) & Headlight Restoration

AC Repair (Part 1) & Headlight Restoration

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge The EricTheCarGuy Video Forum AC Repair (Part 1) & Headlight Restoration

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #665104
    EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
    Keymaster

      I’m sure some of you may disagree with my diagnosis, I will state however that I performed the repair already and it wasn’t what I thought it was, probably not what you’re thinking either. I can cay it’s repaired now and working perfectly. That will be in a future video.

    Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
    • Author
      Replies
    • #665111
      James O'HaraJames O’Hara
      Participant

        I really like your videos and you are really knowledgeable but, I have a few simple questions on this one. I also agree the schrader valves normally need tightening and is something that is over looked a lot. Main reason I am asking these questions is because of how it kicked on then when right back off but, you still have voltage.

        Why not Ohm the compressor?
        Why not check amperage on the harness side?
        The pins in the video looked to be good but, hard to tell so did you check them or do a wiggle test?
        Harness shorting out against the block or itself?
        Are you sure it is not the A/C compressor causing the belt noise from it dragging due to internal damage or partially engaging or disengaging clutch? Simply removing the belt which you would have to anyway and trying to turn by hand should let you know.

        Also if it does turn out to be the tensioner it is probably a symptom of the a/c compressor/clutches failing. These are all simple things I tend to do before I condemn an a/c clutch over the entire compressor might be overkill but, 5-10 mins for me is worth it over having to pull down the entire system and pull the compressor cause it is at least a 3-4 hr job just replacing the compressor if it is just the clutch or a 10hr job if the compressor let go internally. Either way trying to get parts takes forever and estimating it for the customer can also get you in major trouble if you say just a clutch when it is the entire system.

        #665122
        EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
        Keymaster

          [quote=”MDK22″ post=137905]I really like your videos and you are really knowledgeable but, I have a few simple questions on this one. I also agree the schrader valves normally need tightening and is something that is over looked a lot. Main reason I am asking these questions is because of how it kicked on then when right back off but, you still have voltage.

          Why not Ohm the compressor?
          Why not check amperage on the harness side?
          The pins in the video looked to be good but, hard to tell so did you check them or do a wiggle test?
          Harness shorting out against the block or itself?
          Are you sure it is not the A/C compressor causing the belt noise from it dragging due to internal damage or partially engaging or disengaging clutch? Simply removing the belt which you would have to anyway and trying to turn by hand should let you know.

          Also if it does turn out to be the tensioner it is probably a symptom of the a/c compressor/clutches failing. These are all simple things I tend to do before I condemn an a/c clutch over the entire compressor might be overkill but, 5-10 mins for me is worth it over having to pull down the entire system and pull the compressor cause it is at least a 3-4 hr job just replacing the compressor if it is just the clutch or a 10hr job if the compressor let go internally. Either way trying to get parts takes forever and estimating it for the customer can also get you in major trouble if you say just a clutch when it is the entire system.[/quote]

          As you’ll see in a future video the compressor clutch is trashed. The one mistake I did make was not checking to see if the compressor could actually rotate before ordering the clutch. It turned out that the compressor had seized up and caused the clutch to fail. In the end I replaced the compressor and the system is now working perfectly. This will all be covered in a future video.

          Replacing the belt eliminated the noise.

          Thanks for your input.

          #665518
          asetoftoolsasetoftools
          Participant

            Hey eric, getting warmer for me too. I did some research on different refrigerants and decided to go with 12a instead of importing 134a from the states (it is illegal in canada for the home mechanic). From what I read, ( a few forum posts) it seems that hydrocarbon refrigerants (r12a) dont hurt anything and may make the compressor run better because the molecules are smaller. The r12a does not damage the environment either which is my primary reason, as i cant get the hoses connected without venting SOME gas… I also am intrigued that the reason people use r-134a may be a conspiracy by dupont and consider that quite probable when you look at the history of 12 vs 134a (both deplete ozone while 12a is propane based).

            What kind of refrigerant did you use to refill the system in your case? Have you used different ones and would you care to comment on the effectiveness?

            For my own system, it seems one can of r12a seemed to raise the pressure 10psi or so. I am currently at 35psi but i feel it could be cooler and the gauge has blue (recommended level) up to 45psi so im gonna try for 40psi.

            anyways thanks for the video!

            https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HC-12a

            #665523
            EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
            Keymaster

              [quote=”asetoftools” post=138306]Hey eric, getting warmer for me too. I did some research on different refrigerants and decided to go with 12a instead of importing 134a from the states (it is illegal in canada for the home mechanic). From what I read, ( a few forum posts) it seems that hydrocarbon refrigerants (r12a) dont hurt anything and may make the compressor run better because the molecules are smaller. The r12a does not damage the environment either which is my primary reason, as i cant get the hoses connected without venting SOME gas… I also am intrigued that the reason people use r-134a may be a conspiracy by dupont and consider that quite probable when you look at the history of 12 vs 134a (both deplete ozone while 12a is propane based).

              What kind of refrigerant did you use to refill the system in your case? Have you used different ones and would you care to comment on the effectiveness?

              For my own system, it seems one can of r12a seemed to raise the pressure 10psi or so. I am currently at 35psi but i feel it could be cooler and the gauge has blue (recommended level) up to 45psi so im gonna try for 40psi.

              anyways thanks for the video!

              https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HC-12a%5B/quote%5D

              Actually I believe the R12 molecules are larger and 134a are smaller. R12 does cool better, but it’s very expensive and no longer sold in the states. R12 is a fluorocarbon which indeed does damage the ozone. The van came stock with R134a and that’s what I used.

              #665524
              Andrew PhillipsAndrew Phillips
              Participant

                [quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=138311]Actually I believe the R12 molecules are larger and 134a are smaller. R12 does cool better, but it’s very expensive and no longer sold in the states. R12 is a fluorocarbon which indeed does damage the ozone. The van came stock with R134a and that’s what I used.[/quote]
                HC-12a and R12a are not the same refrigerant as R12 (Freon 12/CFC-12). R12a is quite common in Canada. A popular brand is Duracool. It is not a chlorofluorocarbon like R12, nor a hydrofluorocarbon like R134a. It is a hydrocarbon based refrigerant and is molecularly similar to propane and butane. Despite the similarity in numbering, R12a is NOT molecularly compatible with R12, it is not a substitute for R12 (unless it is ‘blend B’), and it is illegal to use R12a in automotive systems (in the USA).

                http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc-12a.html.

                #669744
                MarkMark
                Participant

                  It’s really amazing how much your disposition in these videos has changed since you’ve had the lift. I really thought you were close to calling it quits.

                  #835786
                  Leo D SpenceLeo D Spence
                  Participant

                    I have a different issue now. My original compressor clutch froze up last week and it would turn, so I replaced it with a reman compressor because the replacement clutch was almost the same price, so why not. After all said and done and going to recharge it, the compressor clutch doesn’t engage. Perfect, right ? Well I did some testing and the fuses are good, I switched out the diodes and replay’s from my Mom’s 2003 Saturn and still nothing. I swapped relay’s and the diodes from my Saturn to her’s and her’s engages, mine still nothing. I jumped my clutch wire from my Mom’s with a speaker wire and an old connector from an old compressor and it engages so I suspect as short or issue somewhere in the wiring. It worked fine before it froze up, well except for some split second clicks I mentioned a month or so ago that started a while after I changed the bad line out and vacuum and recharged it. I also watched a richpin06a video about this on S Series Saturn’s and I assume they would be the same except for compressors, they’re in different places is all, and my pressure switch has 3 terminals not 2 like an S Series. With a multimeter I had a 0.00 reading at the P.S. as his did and voltage to the clutch connector. Don’t know where else to go from here. Wiring, fuse block ? It sure was nice to have thought I’d done a great job on my own replacing the leaking parts and getting it going again and to find out something else decides to fail. I guess we all have at auto repair somehow. Need some advise. By the time I get it going, I won’t need it anymore this season. I think I’ve stated that before too.

                    #835832
                    Leo D SpenceLeo D Spence
                    Participant

                      I think instead of opening a new thread that I found related to this issue started back in 2013 about Honda’s I will delete the above post but I need to know if this issue I stated works for any vehicle or do some A/C systems operate differently ? Thanks for your time.

                      #835840
                      EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                      Keymaster

                        [quote=”Chaz9496″ post=143393]I think instead of opening a new thread that I found related to this issue started back in 2013 about Honda’s I will delete the above post but I need to know if this issue I stated works for any vehicle or do some A/C systems operate differently ? Thanks for your time.[/quote]

                        If you’re looking for a specific answer to a specific problem on your vehicle, the best place to post it would be in the Service and Repair thread. The video discussions are more for discussing the video itself. You’ll get a lot more response if you post to Service and Repair for repair related questions.

                      Viewing 9 replies - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
                      • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
                      Loading…