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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98599]I know there will probably be a lot of comments on this one. I wanted to try and cover as much as possible in this video. I think I did pretty good. BTW there’s an extended version of this video available for Premium Members that shows one other method that isn’t soldering.
Hey Eric
Job well done.A few tips from my experience:
-tin the tip after your finished using the gun/iron-while your using the gun/iron turn the heat down when it’s not in use. (your setup (Weller) heats up in no time)
-depending what your soldering, ex. gauge of wire, motherboards, etc. heat doesn’t have to be very high, it’s more of a experimental thing. Motherboards usually require high heat, soldering tip is placed on the motherboard a second or two. Whereas, when soldering wires, depending on the gauge, it will take abit longer for the solder to flow, thick wires require medium heat, thin wires (like Honda 2P connectors) require medium to high heat.
-tinning the wire tips to make a connection, in my opinion, doesn’t work that well. If your running the wires across a motherboard then that method is fine.
-make sure whenever soldering both surface(s) are clean, rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip does the job.
-I don’t use the paste flux, I use a Flux Pen.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/rosin-flux-835-p/[quote=”blacklud” post=98611][quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=98599]I know there will probably be a lot of comments on this one. I wanted to try and cover as much as possible in this video. I think I did pretty good. BTW there’s an extended version of this video available for Premium Members that shows one other method that isn’t soldering.
Hey Eric
Job well done.A few tips from my experience:
-tin the tip after your finished using the gun/iron-while your using the gun/iron turn the heat down when it’s not in use. (your setup (Weller) heats up in no time)
-depending what your soldering, ex. gauge of wire, motherboards, etc. heat doesn’t have to be very high, it’s more of a experimental thing. Motherboards usually require high heat, soldering tip is placed on the motherboard a second or two. Whereas, when soldering wires, depending on the gauge, it will take abit longer for the solder to flow, thick wires require medium heat, thin wires (like Honda 2P connectors) require medium to high heat.
-tinning the wire tips to make a connection, in my opinion, doesn’t work that well. If your running the wires across a motherboard then that method is fine.
-make sure whenever soldering both surface(s) are clean, rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip does the job.
-I don’t use the paste flux, I use a Flux Pen.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/rosin-flux-835-p/%5B/quote%5DThanks very much for your input. I’ll keep your suggestions in mind. I thought I showed tinning the tip after I finished but I guess I cut that at some point. I actually shot this video 3 times. Long story.
Thanks again.
Hi Eric,
I really like this video and especially your self-made wireholder. Next time I’m going to solder some wires, I’ll build one of those first. It really saves a lot of hassle.
Some thoughts that crossed my mind during watching:
- Try using a wider tip for this kind of job. I usually use one that is around 3-4mm wide (looks like a flat-head screwdriver). That increases the contact surface and transfers the heat a lot faster. The insulation might even melt less this way. That isn’t really critical because the shrink tube covers it anyway, but I usually like to leave the insulation as intact as possible. Also, when soldering close to connectors, there’s less risk of melting any plastic.
- When applying the solder, try to hold it between the tip and the joint (not only onto the strands), without pushing the two apart. When the solder touches the tip, it’ll melt instantly and provide an additional contact surface, thus allowing for even better heat transfer. It should also be “sucked” into the wire strands instantly.
- Regarding using flux paste here (for soldering wires or electronics, that is): yes, it’s like magic and actually makes soldering easier, but the paste might have a corrosive effect over time. At least that’s what I’ve been taught during training, I never wanted to test that myself. I always rely on the flux that is already in the soldering tin (as in your case, because it says “electronics”). If those other tricks work for you, you might not even need the paste anymore.
Just a few ideas, maybe you find them helpful. Thank you very much for doing what you’re doing (and for reading through all my rambling 🙂 )
first off. Great job on your soldering video. BUT I have the answer for your problem you had with
the one role of solder….Go look at it . The problem is that it is LEAD free, and to put it mildly
IT SUCKS.. Ive been a electronics tech for 50 years, and a few years ago the powers to be OUR EPA
wanted all of us to stop using leaded solder…all manufactures and tech had to switch over. This stuff
needs a hotter iron and is just harder to work with…the old rad shack rosin core was and still is the best…..AND the lead free crap cracks over time … Just and FYI to all[quote=”Norman” post=98677]Hi Eric,
I really like this video and especially your self-made wireholder. Next time I’m going to solder some wires, I’ll build one of those first. It really saves a lot of hassle.
Some thoughts that crossed my mind during watching:
- Try using a wider tip for this kind of job. I usually use one that is around 3-4mm wide (looks like a flat-head screwdriver). That increases the contact surface and transfers the heat a lot faster. The insulation might even melt less this way. That isn’t really critical because the shrink tube covers it anyway, but I usually like to leave the insulation as intact as possible. Also, when soldering close to connectors, there’s less risk of melting any plastic.
- When applying the solder, try to hold it between the tip and the joint (not only onto the strands), without pushing the two apart. When the solder touches the tip, it’ll melt instantly and provide an additional contact surface, thus allowing for even better heat transfer. It should also be “sucked” into the wire strands instantly.
- Regarding using flux paste here (for soldering wires or electronics, that is): yes, it’s like magic and actually makes soldering easier, but the paste might have a corrosive effect over time. At least that’s what I’ve been taught during training, I never wanted to test that myself. I always rely on the flux that is already in the soldering tin (as in your case, because it says “electronics”). If those other tricks work for you, you might not even need the paste anymore.
Just a few ideas, maybe you find them helpful. Thank you very much for doing what you’re doing (and for reading through all my rambling 🙂 )[/quote]
Cool, thanks for your input.
[quote=”dave1645″ post=98689]first off. Great job on your soldering video. BUT I have the answer for your problem you had with
the one role of solder….Go look at it . The problem is that it is LEAD free, and to put it mildly
IT SUCKS.. Ive been a electronics tech for 50 years, and a few years ago the powers to be OUR EPA
wanted all of us to stop using leaded solder…all manufactures and tech had to switch over. This stuff
needs a hotter iron and is just harder to work with…the old rad shack rosin core was and still is the best…..AND the lead free crap cracks over time … Just and FYI to all[/quote]That makes sense. Thanks very much for the suggestion.
Some of my vehicles date to 1964, so when I do electrical repairs, I aim for pretty high standards. And for soldering this is usually avionics. You can google around easily, but there are a couple of things that come to mind.
You’re probably not allowed to join wires, as any wire should be one piece between terminals, but I frequently break that rule.
The solder should not run up to or under the insulation, for flexibility reasons.
No acid flux should be left behind. Dissolve away any flux with alcohol. Fluxes are acidic, and who needs acid remaining on their wiring.
I especially wouldn’t leave plumber’s flux behind, which might be far more aggressive than rosin flux.
NASA also has soldering standards. Who needs NASA standards on some old vehicle? It’s a bit of peace of mind when in remote locations in a vehicle that that no modern mechanic is likely going to repair or have parts for. Sometimes getting home is nice, even if it’s not from space.
The 2nd method in the video is one I’ve used for years. I’ve always just called it Tinning the tabs. I’ve also preferred when it came to doing connections with wires to use a flat tip in my Soldering iron. The reasons being you could rest the tip on wire and it would heat up a whole lot faster.
Though it isn’t a real concern since Eric’s shop is big though in smaller shops you should also use a fume extractor.
Also wanted to mention about 60/40 being lead solder. People say you should have a fume hood for that stuff. I agree it flows better, but I have heard anecdotes about hobbyists in their basements using lead solder and getting lead poisoning after as little as a few hours in a contained space.
So if you are using lead solder, make sure you have ventilation / air purifier. The lead free stuff may be a bit harder to use, but it does work and is healthier from what i understand. I use both depending on the situation personally. I dont use flux, incase some gets left behind as it is an insulator.
The “guns” i have only ever used on low gauge wire such as 10 awg and below. They are usually much more wattage. I like your butane torch. Much nicer than a long ass extension cord!
[quote=”asetoftools” post=98766]I agree it flows better, but I have heard anecdotes about hobbyists in their basements using lead solder and getting lead poisoning after as little as a few hours in a contained space.[/quote]
Seriously? I suspect this is another one of “those” kind of rumors. I’ve been working with electronics in my earlier years as a career, and up to now as a hobbyist since my teens without issue(now 40). I never use lead-free, nor use any special ventilation. Just some basic caution, and not sucking in the fumes. Basic self-preservation instinct is all that is required IMO.
Lead free just sucks all around. Not only flow, but is easily fractured via heating and cooling cycles. X-box red rings of death being a more recent high profile example of this issue with lead-free solder.
This is some good Discussions 🙂
Here is my `two cents` worth of information:
[ol]
1) Keep your tip clean and tinned!- A) Turn on your Iron and let it heat to 650°F-800°F (depending on what you are working on…)
(A rule of thumb is use the LEAST amount of HEAT possible to do the job at hand.)
-Repeat HEAT KILLS electronics and electrical connections! - B ) Once it is at temperature wipe the tip on the damp sponge
- C) Apply just a bit of solder to the tip…(More on solder types later)
- D) Now Join the two wires
- E) touch the tip to one side of the wire and the solder to the other side. (EricTCG you are correct, let the wire draw the solder into the wire. The solder strand should not directly touch the tip only the wire you are using.
- F) Remove the soldering strand and the tip of the iron and let the joint cool naturally
- G) NEVER blow on the connection to cool the joint quickly. This will lead to a cold solder joint one day. (Cold solder joints will make you very sad, frustrated, and angry trying to diagnose.)
- H) go to the Next wire or if it is going to be a few minuets then Put a blob of solder on the tip of the iron to protect the tip from oxidation. (ALSO do this BEFORE YOU TURN THE IRON OFF TO COOL DOWN) This ->Blob<- will protect the tip from oxidation and killing the tip of the Iron.
- I) If you follow these steps with any solder joint, (Tin, clean, solder, clean, blob to protect, repeat… followed by a blob on the tip before you turn it off.) YOUR SOLDERING IRON TIP WILL LAST YOU FOR YEARS!
[ul]
2) Types of Solder.- A) Yes EricTCG the first solder you used was Lead Free, Or ROHS (Reduction of Hazardous Substances…in electronics) (its like 90% tin and 10% mixture of other metals) (Lead free begins to melt at 750°F)
[li] B ) The second type of solder is 60/40 (60%Lead/40%tin + Rosin core)(60/40 begins to melt at 625-650°F)
[li]C) DO NOT MIX THE TWO!!! (Like Egon Said in Ghost busters, ”DO NOT CROSS THE STREAMS!
”)
most electonic manufacturers have two soldering irons at each work bench… one for lead free (ROHS) and one for 60/40 lead solder.3) No one has mentioned IPC-A-610 and IPC-J-STD-001 the soldering standards.
[li]A) This is the Bible / Gosple of soldering wires, circuit boards, any thing dealing with solder and electronics
[li]B ) this is a sample of what IPC certification entailsAbout ME:
-I have an BS in Electronics Eng. Technology From The University of Southern Mississippi. (USM TO THE TOP!!!)
-I was a PCB (Printed circuit board) design Eng. for a Commercial x86 Intel Motherboard company.
(think like this… If the PC you are typing on right now is a Honda accord or Toyota Camery then these PCs were the industrial 18 Wheeler’s of the PC industry)
-I now work for Nissan as a Process engineer at a Manufacturing plant producing cars and Trucks handling things like electronics and software programming.Great video, my soldering method is a little bit different that I’ve developed over 30 years in the electrical engineering field. I like to set my soldering iron to 600-650F with a well tinned tip, put a little ball of solder on the tip and touch the wires as a feed more solder using the tip to guide the molted solder where is needed. This keeps the component being soldered cooler and more importantly, prevents the lifting of circuit board traces- which I have done too many times early in my career.
However, working on my own cars, I’ve almost always found the wire that need to be spliced corroded to the point where it won’t take solder, even if I strip the wires back 2 feet. So I always end up using crimp barrels with liquid electrical tape after to seal it which has worked great.
But I think this is one of those topics where there will never be any agreement on which method is best, just like the topic of “which oil is best”.
This is one subject I haven’t seen be taught in technical school.
Few tips …
Usually it is more easy with size of solder adapted to the wire you are soldering,
for gauge off 20 and more a smaller solder (1/16″) will works better than big one ( 1/8″).Usually 60/40 has rosin flux, but some smaller size don’t have flux so putting manually flux is needed.
If you are using core flux solder be sure to melt and seal the tip of your solder before putting away, so you will not lose some off the flux!
Adding flux can help alot for old wires, be sure to heat enough to activate the flux before putting solder on it.
And finally ! always have a wet rag handy, useful to clean your weld and who knows it could be useful to put the fire out when you let your hot iron touching on the table for too long !
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