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so your car is leaking coolant somewhere from the front of the engine and it seems too only happen when the engine revs up really high for example a freeway pass or when you are just winding it up! you figure out after doing a pressure test coolant sprays from the stupid plastic elbows GM decided was a good idea! they get hot and cold and they only go through so many heat cycles and they crack! or maybe like me you decided heck why not replace them with the aluminum units now rather than wait for them too spray coolant everywhere and leave me stranded.
General location of the parts
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]first step is too jack up the car, put it safely on jack stands and drain a little coolant out, because coolant will come out when you do this job have a pan ready too catch any coolant that may drain. then a very important step is too remove the negative battery cable, we will be working around some high priority electrical like the Alternator.
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]next step is too remove the serpentine belt especially from the belt tensoner and alternator because these parts will be removed
once you have done that you can begin removing the alternator, the alternator is bolted on top of the belt tensioner assembly with 3 bolts, you will also have too unplug the main power wire, and a small harness that clicks into the side of the alternator and once this is all un bolted it should all come off
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE3.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]once the alternator is removed you have access too the belt tensioner assembly, it is held on buy 3 bolts, 15MM head, one of which is hiding sort of in a sneaky location a mirror may help you find this sneaky little bolt, all bolts are the same size.
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE-4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE-4.jpg[/IMG][/URL]once you have removed the bolts its now the coolant elbows (or what may be left of them) holding the entire assembly on, if they are relatively in tact carefully take a large screw driver or a small pry bar and pull the elbows gently out of there holes, note they may brake of inside and if they do don’t be alarmed, you can fish them out with a small set of picks.
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]once you have it free you don’t have too remove the assembly from the heater core hoses simply set it aside with the coolant elbows up, remove the coolant elbows (or broken bits of them) out, and clean out the sections where the new elbows will fit in with a little carb cleaner and a very super fine grit of sand paper.
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]once again i HIGHLY recommend the use of the aluminum units as a replacement there is no difference in weight and cost is only a dollar or so, why be stingy about the cost when you can save yourself the headache down the road! the $1.00 difference can save the day!
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE7.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE7.jpg[/IMG][/URL]before installing the elbows lube the o rings up good with some Vaseline, this way they slide right into there respective holes effortlessly and smooth…. go ahead make the joke, we are all thinking the same thing. 😉
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]the rest is essentially the reverse of removal, you may have to do some fiddling too get the coolant elbows in there respective holes, but once you have it lined up the whole assembly should just slide in, tightening the bolts back up little buy little should also help coax the assembly into place.
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE-4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE-4.jpg[/IMG][/URL]once you have carefully put everything back together bleed the cooling system properly, check for leaks, then take it for a test drive and once the engine has warmed up don’t be afraid too put your foot down a few times too assure it won’t leak… then come back and have a look and check for leaks again
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE9.jpg[/IMG][/URL]if all checks out and there is no leaks, congratulations you have replaced the coolant elbows in your 3800 series III with brand new aluminom units which wont break like the plastic ones do! YAY!
[URL=http://s49.photobucket.com/user/13aceofspades13/media/CE10.jpg.html][IMG]http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f261/13aceofspades13/CE10.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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