J Series VManual Tall

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©2011 EricTheCarGuy
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This was my second VManual, the Honda J Series V6 Timing Belt Replacement. This is a step by step, bolt by bolt account outlining the replacement of the Honda J series V6 timing belt and water pump. I even show a couple of methods you can use to remove the crank bolt which in my opinion is probably the most difficult part of the job, if you can't do that you can't do this job. Shops charge up to $800 for this job so you'll be sure to save plenty should you do this job yourself. There's a complete tool list in the VManual. I also show how to deal with the 2 types of hydraulic tensioners used on this engine, if you mess this up the belt won't have tension and might skip time which could result in engine damage. I show how to install the belt and set tension as well as the water pump replacement. This video applies to: 1998-2007 J30 3.0L V6 Accord, Acura TL and CL models, 1999-2007 J32 Acura 3.2L TL and CL, 1998-2007 J35 3.5L Odyssey, Pilot, Rideline, Acura RL and Acura MDX as well as the FWE Saturn VUE with the J35 engine. This VManual does not directly apply but has relevance to the J37 3.7L 2007-??? Acura MDX, RL, TL, and ZDX. So if your looking to save some money or your just curious of what's involved with this job this VManual is for you.

If you have issues with the download or have questions about the VManual send them to Support@EricTheCarGuy.com, there is NO PHONE SUPPORT for this product but emails submitted to the address above will be answered within 24 hours.

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Stay Dirty


©2011 EricTheCarGuy  All Rights Reserved


+7 # aaronac8 2013-06-04 18:19
I purchased your J Series timing belt video and was able to change the timing belt and water pump on my 2009 TL....well worth the money since it saved me a lot more, and had the satisfaction of doing it myself for the first time.
+3 # dapqam 2013-06-06 08:15
What is the actual vehicle used in the Honda J-series timing belt video. Looks like there may be variations in drive belt types.
+2 # EricTheCarGuy 2014-04-09 07:19
There are slight variations but the overall procedure is the same. The vehicle in the video is a 2003 Acura TL.
-5 # dapqam 2013-07-28 12:14
Dear phxfirebird12,
I think your engine is an interference engine and you did not have the marks lined up properly. Hopefully you did not damage the valves or pistons. You need to make sure the 3 alignment marks (between the engine body and pulleys. You can see them through the sight holes and from above on the crankshaft pulley. (or take the timing belt covers off and verify or correct the position.) If you get the marks lined up properly and still have noise you probably are looking at significant engine repair. Ouch.
+3 # DP 2013-07-31 15:14
Thanks Eric for your great video! It was really helpful, especially during those moments of confusion and frustration that can happen during a project like this. :-? A few suggestions though. I had two problem areas where I had to figure things out on my own. One was the dip stick tube that would not come out no matter how much I wiggled and pulled by hand. It had a lot of Northeast salt corrosion on it. Finally a lot of penetrating oil and a small reverse hammer hooked around a vice-grip clamped to the mount set it free. Wow! I bent the mount though, which created another problem on reassembly. What an unexpected pain! Then there was an OEM torx screw on the serpentine belt tensioner instead of the 14mm bolt you show in the video. A moment of panic ensued! But when I calmed down I realized that I could use a dulled pry bar to pry between the belt and the tension pulley thus moving the pulley so that I had enough slack to get the belt off of the crank pulley. Did reverse to install.
0 # onyx 2013-11-25 22:19
Jonathan said:

"Good tips throughout but, I purchased to see if you had a recommendation on how to clear/reset the crank pattern learning as the OEM procedure advises on '06 and up vehicles. Per my research- you need a very high end OBDII scan tool or the actual HDS to perform this. Please advise if you have a method on how to reset this pattern stored in non-volatile memory to save me from the hour labor at the dealership quoted for the 5 min button push. Thanks!"
+1 # dapqam 2013-12-02 10:57
I did not do the learning protocol. There is a method listed in the Repair Manual where you just run the car through several rounds of acceleration. I think if you just drive the car it will set itself. My car seems to behave correctly without any special learning cycle. Anyone else experience same or different experience? Would be interested to know.
+2 # aaronac8 2013-12-02 11:53
I did not do ant special re-learn procedure and 8000 miles later have had no problems.

As an aside, be mindful of the keyway in the crankshaft pulley. It is very small and can easily get misplaced.
+3 # fgina 2014-01-09 18:47
what year model was used for this J series timing belt vmanual?
+3 # EricTheCarGuy 2014-04-09 07:21
2002 Acura TL
+1 # mizturyous 2014-04-13 19:37
Great video and information. What you are doing is awesome, it really allows us "do it yourself" people to get dirty and repair/work on our vehicle with great tutorials and help on what we may not know or be able to figure out. I just completed my timing belt, water pump, new tensioner and pulleys, and serpentine belt. This made it relatively easy. Thank you Eric!
+2 # billo 2014-08-11 12:40
Thanks so much for this vmanual. It gave me the confidence and knowledge I needed to do the job on my 2003 Pilot. Couple points for the good of the crowd:

Long 14mm wrench - Wish I had followed your recommendation and and picked one up. Won't do job again without.

Crank pulley bolt - broke several extensions and used some choice words. Cordless impact did not do the trick. Thanks for recommending this step before anything else.

Pulling the grenade pin - I installed a new OEM grenade type tensioner. I pulled the pin by hand, apparently too slow, so when the pin cleared the far side of the tensioner, the plunger bent the pin into a zig-zag preventing it from coming out all the way. Took a lot of awkward force/leverage/ vicegrip usage to get it out.

Thanks again for producing the vmanual! Visualizing the work ahead of time helped a ton.
0 # JakeLane91 2015-08-31 09:14
I have a 2009 accord v6, the J35. I'm assuming its identical??
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2015-08-31 10:41
Not exactly. The 2009 is an updated version compared to what's in the VManual. The video will be close to that engine, but there will be some differences between the 2.
+1 # dottavio1 2015-10-10 07:41
Just finished the timing belt on my 04 Pilot. This video was AWESOME. I watched plenty of videos on YouTube, but Eric's is step by step. Some feedback. The hose trick is too dangerous. Rather, use Liquid Wrench the week and day before to help break the rust on the crank bolt. Also, use white out to highlight the timing marks on the engine, gears and timing belt. Makes it must safer to install the belt on the correct teeth.
-1 # svamar 2015-11-30 17:38
I have a 2003 ody that will be needing its 2nd timing belt replaced. I also have a '95 ody with 250k miles that is leaking oil like a ceive from the seals. I would like to replace the seals as on the 2003 as well as the belt and pump. Does this video show how to replace the seals also, or is there another available for that? Thanks.
+1 # EricTheCarGuy 2015-12-01 06:37
I do not recommend replacing the seals on the J series engine unless they're leaking. If you replace them, you actually likely to cause a leak. The F series that's in your 95 however could benefit from seal replacement and the addition of a balance shaft oil seal retainer. Both of those are covered in the F series VManual.
0 # dapqam 2015-11-30 21:03
seamer, I have looked for instructions to do the timing belt on a 2005 Sienna (on sienna chat.com) http://www.siennachat.com/forum/185-problems-maintenance-repair/176985-diy-2005-sienna-3-3l-3mzfe-timing-belt.html From there I have been able to see how to loosen and remove seals. Hope this helps with your ody they are probably similar.
+1 # kimcpl 2016-01-28 10:19
Dear Eric.
Thank you for your blogs and I enjoy so much.
I have 2005 Odyssey(179k) Touring consuming oil a lot.
I rebuilt myself engine and finally ( it took 2 month ...) start engine but it's very hardly shake. I diagnose myself rear bank(1-2-3) cylinders not fire. looks like VCM active normal condition. Almost 4 months disconnect battery in my car..... Could you help? Thank you.
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-01-29 06:03
Please post your automotive questions over at the Service and Repair Question section of the forum.
0 # jmlarios13 2016-02-23 07:38
Hi Eric,
I have a 2003 Acura TL (J series) base model. How come you don't recommend changing the crank shaft seal? Doesn't it make sense to replace it since you're there already?
Great video by the way..
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-02-27 08:30
As mentioned above I do not recommend replacement of those seals unless they are actively leaking. I've seen more issues caused by their replacement over them leaking on their own.
0 # jmlarios13 2016-02-27 13:03
Thanks for your reply Eric. Any advise for those of us that need to replace the seal? I don't see a video on youtube by you about replacing the seal or perhaps I haven't found it. What should I do in order to successfully replace my seal? I bought an original AISIN kit, with AISIN pump, hydrolic tensioner, also came with Koyo tensioner pulleys and Mitsuboshi belt. Any technique I should use to remove and replace the seal?
PS: Great video by the way, thanks.
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-02-28 07:26
If the seal is not leaking I do not recommend replacement. I believe you run the risk of causing a leak if you do. I very rarely see them leaking.
0 # jmlarios13 2016-02-29 16:41
Thanks, of course, one's idea is that if you're already there why not replace it like you do with the water pump.
Thanks for your advise.
+3 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-03-01 06:18
I don't recommend replacing the seal if it's not leaking because I've seen on more than one occasion where replacing the seal, especially with an aftermarket part, caused a leak after installation that was not there previously. If you want to replace yours, go for it, it is your vehicle after all.
0 # mccaskd 2016-09-08 21:35
Paid my subscription and only got to watch 60 mins of the J Series Timing Belt Video. Where did the other 30 mins go to?

Eric O at SMA has a video for the Oddessey J35 engine which is similar procedure, so he saved the day.

Still kind of miffed though.
-1 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-09-09 06:14
I'm sorry to hear about your experience. Thank you for bringing this to our attention. We recently ported over to a new streaming service. We were not aware that the VManual had been cut short during the transfer. I've rectified the problem and it's playing fine now. In the future if you have any issues with a VManual all you need do is email and someone will work to help you resolve the issue.
0 # jmlarios13 2016-09-11 00:59
have to say this was as detailed and precise video I've seen on J series timing belt replacement. I've now made 2 TB replacements with this video, an '03 TL and an '06 Odyssey. About the only thing I ran into that wasn't covered, was that my rear cam shaft pulley shifted from 12 O'Clock to about 2'Clock, which petrified me thinking that I'd done something wrong. Took me a while to learn this happens often on J engines and all that I had to do was to turn it backwards to the 12'Clock position with a wrench and bingo, no damage to valves or anything. My fear was that I'd bend valves and/or risers which of course, didn't happen.
One thing I'd add, the SMA video showed the balancer removing socket, an ingenious tool that made removing the crank bolt a breeze.
Eric, you're very articulate and your explanations are precise and to the point, I really like that you cover all scenarios that your experience has brought you in front of, and that's just simply priceless.
-1 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-09-11 06:35
Thank you for that critique. My one regret with the VManual is not putting in the information about the rear cam. That has come up a lot since the video was released and as you pointed out, it's an easy fix. Thanks again.
0 # madanjay 2016-10-15 21:33
Hi Eric...I just recently purchased the VManual for J Series engine to fix the 2005 Acura MDX. I am experiencing exactly what happened to jmlarios13. I just want to clarify to fix the rear cam shaft pulley that shifted, is just by turning it backward with a wrench to 12 o'clock position. Thanks
-1 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-10-17 06:38
You only want to turn it so that the timing marks line up, not the 12 o'clock position.
0 # madanjay 2016-10-19 22:24
Do you recommend changing the timing idler, timing belt pulley and the drive belt? Thank you
+1 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-10-20 06:13
As stated in the video, I only change the idlers if there's an issue. If you can spare the expense, it's not a bad idea to replace them however. I recommend Honda parts. Yes, I do recommend replacing drive belts. Also covered in the video I believe.
-1 # jmlarios13 2016-10-24 16:04
If it helps, I bought my timing belt kits by Aisin (I understand Aisin, KOYO and Mitsuboshi are Honda OEMs for most of these parts) from Amazon. I've done two J engine timing belts ('03 3.2TL and '06 Odyssey 3.5 Touring) and I'm about to do an F series ('94 Accord DX wagon), all with Eric's videos as my bible (You'd be a fool not to use these videos). The kits avg from $182-$198 for the J series, $115 for the F series, and include both idler bearings by KOYO, OEM water pump by Aisin, timing belt by Mitsuboshi, and the hydraulic tensioner which Eric recommends replacing if yours is the granade-pin type. The Accord kit also includes the idler springs....
0 # jmlarios13 2016-10-24 16:04
...Have an air compressor? I strooongly recommend the harmonic balancer removing socket for Honda crank bolts, the best $22 ever spent if you have even one of these jobs to do. In both jobs, the crank bolt came off like a wheel nut. No, I'm not a rep for any of these mfg's, I'm just your avg mid-level DIYer a/k/a "ETCG student" :lol: (hint hint Eric).
Search Amazon w/ the Aisin p/n:
TKH-001 for '03 3.2TL
TKH-002 for '06 Odyssey (all models I think)
TKH-006 for '94 Accord DX VTec wagon
Lisle 77080 19mm Harmonic Balancer socket
Capri Tools 21000 crank pulley removal tool
Hope this helps
0 # Guygarbarino 2016-10-04 20:41
I loved the video it was a huge help
Thanks also for a great web site
Can I make one suggestion their is always room for improvement I really don't like the yearly recurring payment I had to cancel at the PayPal site it was a pain
Not sure why anyone would want access to a video for more than a year maybe you can change that policy
I did find your video to be a great value
One more thing your customer service was great
I made a bonehead move with my login that locked me out of my account and they worked with me and got me all set up
Thanks again
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2016-10-05 06:40
Thank you for the feedback. It was necessary to set up the subscription service for the streaming VManauals. We could not offer them any other way because of how the paywall is set up. That said, you can cancel recurring payments at any time via your PayPal account, even immediately after you make your purchase to avoid future charges and you would still be able to view the VManual for the one year period.
+1 # cwynn 2017-05-23 15:54
Thank you for making these videos for us DIYer's. I have a problem that I hope you can solve. I am in the middle of replacing the timing belt on my wife's 2008 Acura TL and I did a no no. Last night, I had the new belt on with all the marks lined up or so I thought. I pulled the tensioner pin to put tension back on the timing belt and went to bed. I came back after work today to finish putting everything back together and all the cam gears were forward in the 2 o'clock position but the marks on the belt were still lined up with the marks on the engine block. I panicked and took the belt off started to move each individual cam back to position 1. I started with the crankshaft. I could not go counterclockwis e because the camshaft bolt kept backing out so i went clockwise until it was back in position 1. I moved the forward cam counterclockwis e back to position 1 with a wrench. It seemed to jump back to that position with little effort. Then i tried to do the same with the rear cam which it would not let me go forwards a stroke or backwards. I'm guessing the valve is interfering with the piston. Please help!!!
+1 # EricTheCarGuy 2017-05-24 06:23
Don't be concerned wth the marks on the belt, worry about lining up the marks on the engine. If you read the comments above you'll see the rear cam is a common issue. Just use a 17mm wrench to line it up and it should stay in place long enough for you to install the belt. In fact use a wrench on both the front and back cams to line them up it's much easier. Be sure to line the crank mark up first. Good luck.
0 # cwynn 2017-05-24 17:16
I would love to do that but the rear cam will not return to the initial position. it is acting like it is binding when i put a wrench on it to rotate it back to position one. It will allow me to move it 1/8 of a turn clockwise and counterclockwis e but it will not return to position 1. It acts like a valve is interfering with a piston.
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2017-05-25 06:50
Likely the pistons are hitting the valves. Back the crank off enough to move the pistons down enough to clear the valves, put the cams into, or close to position, move the crank back into time and complete the procedure.
+1 # cwynn 2017-05-25 11:15
Awesome! I will start again after work today and let you know how it went once I complete the procedure!
0 # cwynn 2017-05-30 09:15
Ok I have completed everything except for putting the lower and upper covers back on. One thing that is bothering me. After I put the belt on and started to rotate the engine, by the second full rotation I noticed that I had not released the tensioner pin yet. I released the pin and put tension back on the belt. By the fifth full rotation all cams and crankshaft were back at position 1 but the whiteout marks on the timing belt were not lined up with the cam gears and crankshaft. the whiteout marks on the belt were off a little. I made another five full rotations and the whiteout marks on the belt were off by one tooth but both cams and crankshaft were still lined up with the marks on the engine. Am I good or do I have to tear this thing apart and start over?
+1 # EricTheCarGuy 2017-05-30 11:32
As previously stated, ignore the marks on the timing belt. The marks on the engine are what is important. As you've seen, timing belts are 'hunting', meaning they don't come into contact with the same teeth during each rotation. As long as the marks on the engine are correct, you should be fine.
-2 # cwynn 2017-05-30 13:06
Will do, thanks for the help!
-1 # cwynn 2017-06-05 14:33
With everything put back together I turned the key and success!!! I took a few laps around the block and rode around our area for a while with no problems. Again thank you for all the help!
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2017-06-06 06:35
Very happy to hear you got it all sorted out. Thanks for the update! The victory laps were well deserved.
+1 # moapys 2018-01-21 08:06
All -

As I am about pick up Eric's Vmanual for the T/B-replacement on my 2000 J30a, some Googling produced an interesting question: More than one source suggested that this particular V6 is "not" an interference engine, yet 99% of all other Honda T/B-equipped motors, are... 'Any truth to this? It won't delay my 105k replacment - but will let me worry a bit less, until I do, in few weeks!!! THX
+1 # EricTheCarGuy 2018-01-23 05:39
I believe there are different variants of the engine that have different compression ratios. That said, I advocate that you change the belt and check to see if if runs if you break a belt. You're going to have to change it anyway and you might get lucky.

0 # moapys 2018-01-29 09:09
All - the job went perfectly (I used the crank-bolt "trifecta"; PBsoak/heat/wei ghted-impact-so cket*). Props to Eric for the triple-check TAUT-front/SLAC K-rear; I've done BMW's, but this was more "sneaky"...desp ite being locked all around when reinstalling, the heads remained spot-on, but the crank 'looked a half-tooth' off: In fact, getting the front of the belt extra taut, allowed me to nudge back the crank - pipe wrench with plugs out works great - and DEAD ON.

A couple of other hints: Get a bazillion wobble and flex extension 1/4" for the 10mm rear t/b covers; at least on this Accord, it required micro-fingers. Also, suggest you jot down disassembly order, being mindful of when the engine-mount block occurs. Don't try this after the covers, as its lip lies beneath the covers' seals...oops. Great video, Eric....!
0 # moapys 2018-01-29 09:11
*the reference to the weighted socked (used only with a modest electric impact wrench) was this: To "simulate" the Lisle 'torque-enhanci ng' socket, I spun on a spool of lead solder to my 19mm impact. This gave it enough oooph to spin off the nut, when the un-enhanced socket did not. TaDa!
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2018-01-30 06:19
Glad you were able to complete the job successfully. Thanks for sharing your experience and tips.
0 # ttucker 2019-05-20 23:12
This video was very helpful especially how to reset the spring tensioner. Trying to reach the bottom-cover bolts in the back I inadvertently removed the spring tensioner bolts. I wasn't aware that the cover doesn't cover the spring tensioner bolts. They're 10 mm as are the cover bolts. How they are positioned makes it difficult to distinguish when reaching from the top. I admit I should have done as you Eric and work them from the bottom. I wanted to work from the top as much as possible. Thank you for the time you spent putting this video together. Although this was my 4th timing belt to install, I felt the most sense of accomplishment with this one. Watching your video ahead of time gave me a practice run-over to show me what I should expect. I used the jack handle over my Craftsman 1/2 dr. breaker bar and slid a tent pole just larger than the jack handle over it to allow for telescoping leverage. It worked easily when my 550 ft. lbs. craftsman impact wrench wouldn't. Thanks again for a great video.
0 # EricTheCarGuy 2019-05-21 05:27
Thank you for sharing your experience. I'm glad you found the VManual helpful and that you successfully completed the job.

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