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I saw on ebay it can be different ways on changing the wheel bearing. The easiest way is doing the whole hub. Need one myself on my 1993 honda accord in the front left and choosing to buy the whole assembly. I should be the same for you to. A whole wheel bearing hub assembly cost between 35 to 45 dollars brand new :).
Edit: You will have to take the whole knuckle out and press the bearing out.
I can also upload a video on explaining my problem 🙂
I know it has been a very long time but got some new info.
Who ever had the car before didn’t do anything right when it came to the idling. I unplugged the IACV and the car quickly dies. The throttle cable was pulled and tighten down so I guess the guy didnt know how to idle the car and the throttle body butterfly plate was stuck slightly open.
– I loosened the throttle cable enough, and plugged back in the IACV. Car idle was way to low and barely ran.
– I found the idle air screw and got the car to run on its own without the IACV at 600. When I plugged it in, it ran at 850.
– After resetting the computer, Car ran and idle way better.
– Car doesn’t have low idle while turning and great stable idle in park at 850.
Now I have a new problem. The car (when put in reverse or drive) will dip to 650, go up to 700, the 675 to 725. It dips but slowly fluctuates back up to normal. Also had the revving idle on cold starts from 1500 to 2000 but I had to screw the yellow top in the FITV down to stop the surging.
I still hear air being pass through, even when fully warm from the FITV. Can the FITV cause bad idle when car in gear too?
@nickwarner – I bought a brand new alternator with same result.Just to update I still haven’t fixed the issue with excessive power drain and low idling. Heres what I did in addition
– I fixed the squealing by tightening up the belt.
– Went to advance auto parts for a deep power testing of my alternator and battery. Battery tested good but the Alternator was tested very weak. So I bought a refurbished Duralast one and still have the same issues.
– Cleaned the throttle body and IACV. May look into the EGR passages.
– Also replaced my Power Steering Pressure Switch.
Can it be the Power Steering Pump itself pulling to much unnecessary power causing low idle and lower idle in steering?
@ToyotaKarl – I believe my Alternator is getting weak, imma do further testing with that.
@nickwarner – Yes my car squeals for a while on cold starts. After it warms up its fine. Also under load I hear a very faint squeal coming from the belt. 🙂After performing all the tests, I found the problem. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor and my honda runs like a charm now !! Thank You everyone for the help.
After performing all the tests, I found the problem. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor and my honda runs like a charm now !! Thank You everyone for the help.
Thank You Tomh and 99Nightmare, I removed the distributor cap and saw a little bit of oil grime on the side. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and also gently cleaned the metal contacts. Still Misfire. Also Tomh, I will futher do what you suggested with the testing.