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I went in search of a scan tool that could read ABS codes but the cheapest one i found was $230 which is out of the question for me. I have been reading around and people seem to be telling me to take off each wheel speed sensor then clean them and test them with an Ohmmeter.
Apparently, if you disconnect the wheel speed sensor then you put the ohmmeter probes on the sensor’s contacts then you spin the wheel, you should see a change in the ohm reading.
So far I have taken off one sensor, cleaned it, and tested it. The way I did this is, I clipped probes to the sensor’s contact’s and touched the little magnet on the sensor to a magnetic piece of steel. I did observe a jump up in Ohms every time I brought the metal into contact with the sensor’s magnet.
Is looking for a change in Ohms a legitimate way to test to see if the sensor is good? I can easily disconnect each sensor and test them this way if this method works. But again, I need to know if this is a true test for a faulty sensor.
All help is highly Appreciated. 🙂
I will try what you said to reset the wrench light. How do I access the ABS module? Is it a different plug than the one used by my scan tool under the dash?
If what you say is true the wrench light must be faulty. I literally did an oil and oil filter change yesterday. As I said before, I did hook the car up to a scan tool, but there was only one code “p0446”. When I was able to use the scan tool the “ABS” and “trac cont” lights were not on however. Do I need to try and use the scan tool when these lights are on? My scan tool says “the car needs to be off and the key needs to be in the on position”. This makes it impossible to test when those 2 lights are on because they only come on when the engine is running.
I have had times when the brake pedal will shake but not always. The ABS and trac cont lights come on almost every day, but i’ve only had my brake pedal shake once in the last month of driving it.
To recap my questions in this reply. Do I need to test when the lights are on? Are the lights on to tell me the cause of my brake pedal shaking once? If so, why are the lights on almost constantly and the brake pedal does not always shake?Thank you, but i still need help. Anything is appreciated.
Update for anyone who wants to know. My battery had a bad cell and was replaced because it was under warranty. The alternator stopped working and I had a new one put on. (you have to take the tans axle and stuff loose and I didn’t have the tools for it)The crew that replaced my alternator found that the plug and wires from the alternator had been chewed and were grounding out.
I needed a new battery, a new alternator, and a new wiring harness to get everything back right. A $550 job once everything was said and done. Someone find me a new car because I’m done lol.Update for anyone who wants to know. My battery had a bad cell and was replaced because it was under warranty. The alternator stopped working and I had a new one put on. (you have to take the tans axle and stuff loose and I didn’t have the tools for it)The crew that replaced my alternator found that the plug and wires from the alternator had been chewed and were grounding out.
I needed a new battery, a new alternator, and a new wiring harness to get everything back right. A $550 job once everything was said and done. Someone find me a new car because I’m done lol.Update, I took my car to Auto Zone and they brought out their tester and hooked it to the battery and said it was fine. The guy had me start the car and turn on everything electrical. (high beams, defrost, windshield wipers, etc) According to him, everything checks out with the battery and the system sets at 14.5 volts with everything on at idle.
It was disappointing because the car was tested at a time when everything was working fine… When I was almost home however everything went dim again for no reason. Intermediate problems suck…
I talked to him about the problem though and he said it sounded like a loose connection to the alternator or the alternator possibly needs replacing.
I plan on checking every connection I can find to the alternator. I have a Haynes manual to my car but the pictures and descriptions in the book don’t match up to my car.
Any thoughts?Update, I took my car to Auto Zone and they brought out their tester and hooked it to the battery and said it was fine. The guy had me start the car and turn on everything electrical. (high beams, defrost, windshield wipers, etc) According to him, everything checks out with the battery and the system sets at 14.5 volts with everything on at idle.
It was disappointing because the car was tested at a time when everything was working fine… When I was almost home however everything went dim again for no reason. Intermediate problems suck…
I talked to him about the problem though and he said it sounded like a loose connection to the alternator or the alternator possibly needs replacing.
I plan on checking every connection I can find to the alternator. I have a Haynes manual to my car but the pictures and descriptions in the book don’t match up to my car.
Any thoughts?How do I do these tests? I can check the voltage easily but how do I do a drop test? I have a multimeter and I can rent other tools from auto-parts stores. I am really hesitant to take my car to any garage. I have had a terrible experience with all shops around here.
How do I do these tests? I can check the voltage easily but how do I do a drop test? I have a multimeter and I can rent other tools from auto-parts stores. I am really hesitant to take my car to any garage. I have had a terrible experience with all shops around here.
I took the pedal mechanism off and cleaned it out (because it was full of lint and gunk), but to no avail. He found a replacement on e-bay for like 50 bucks so he is just going to buy it. Sorry to waste time, He made it sound more urgent than it actually was. I thought he was riding around with an out of date sticker which will get you busted around here lol. Thanks for the quick answers anyway 🙂
I took the pedal mechanism off and cleaned it out (because it was full of lint and gunk), but to no avail. He found a replacement on e-bay for like 50 bucks so he is just going to buy it. Sorry to waste time, He made it sound more urgent than it actually was. I thought he was riding around with an out of date sticker which will get you busted around here lol. Thanks for the quick answers anyway 🙂
Yeah just got this job done today. I’m really happy everything works lol.
Now all I have to do is fix an exhaust leak and find out why I have a rolling idle on this same car lol. I might post on here again if I can’t find a reason for my rolling idle because I’ve never had to fix a rolling idle before.
Also major thanks to you sir for your descriptive and easy to understand posts 🙂
Yeah just got this job done today. I’m really happy everything works lol.
Now all I have to do is fix an exhaust leak and find out why I have a rolling idle on this same car lol. I might post on here again if I can’t find a reason for my rolling idle because I’ve never had to fix a rolling idle before.
Also major thanks to you sir for your descriptive and easy to understand posts 🙂
Update.
I went out and got replacements for the main fuses and tried to get the socket piece for the fuses, but the part was discontinued.
I put the new fuses into the old socket and got everything to go back into place like it should, but there was still no power (as expected)
I tracked the ground cable from the battery to two different places, one attached to the body under the battery and one attached to the engine. I took them both off, cleaned them, and bolted them back into place, but there was still no power.
After checking everything over again I finally figured out that the positive battery connecter has another cluster coming from the side of the connector. I took off the copper piece that the wire cluster was connected to, sanded the paint off the side of the positive connector, put everything back and tightened it down and eureka! Everything works now.HUGE Thanks to everyone who posted, Wayne613, college man, and EricTheCarGuy. You are the reason I have a working car now, can’t thank you guys enough.
Here’s a pic of the copper piece that is connected to the side of the positive connector
[IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/xefx8i.jpg[/IMG]
Update.
I went out and got replacements for the main fuses and tried to get the socket piece for the fuses, but the part was discontinued.
I put the new fuses into the old socket and got everything to go back into place like it should, but there was still no power (as expected)
I tracked the ground cable from the battery to two different places, one attached to the body under the battery and one attached to the engine. I took them both off, cleaned them, and bolted them back into place, but there was still no power.
After checking everything over again I finally figured out that the positive battery connecter has another cluster coming from the side of the connector. I took off the copper piece that the wire cluster was connected to, sanded the paint off the side of the positive connector, put everything back and tightened it down and eureka! Everything works now.HUGE Thanks to everyone who posted, Wayne613, college man, and EricTheCarGuy. You are the reason I have a working car now, can’t thank you guys enough.
Here’s a pic of the copper piece that is connected to the side of the positive connector
[IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/xefx8i.jpg[/IMG]
