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These compression numbers are poor ,put each cylinder in tdc and do leak down see what’s not sealing. That is the basic you should start with.
That axle nut has a tourque value which is important to keep a preload on the bearing. It should be tourqued to spec.
Refill regularly you don’t have that far to go.
My brother has it in his e250 and nonstop repairs from block heaters going bad to injectors, fuel pump. Also very sluggish when cold. I highly do not recommend that engine.
Jack the front up and see if wheels free spin.
Every time you get new tires, change suspension parts, or the vehicle just does not want to go straight when you let go of the steering wheel that’s when you should get a wheel alignmet.
Check for spark.
See if you can trace the trigger wire, Injector ground wire where it’s coming from. A computer or some sort of a relay. If it’s coming from the computer , there might be a problem with the computer (Ecm) itself.
Ok listen to yourself for a second and you should make a strong opinion . You said that you have 188k on that engine and you let some hater classify that engine as junk. What?
Maybe a bad guage cause 60 psi or 40 psi is very low that car wouldn’t even run.
I wonder if its one of those engines that if it detects a misfire on a particular cylinder, the computer commands the injector to stop working so it doesn’t send unburned fuel to the cat and destroys it.
October 29, 2015 at 11:47 pm in reply to: No heat from vents-Hyundai Accent X3 1995 [SOLVED] #843079Ok , when you refill every thing with coolant, before you put the radiator cap on squeeze all the coolant hoses especially the ones going to the fire wall, might help get any trapped air out of the system. Also you will feal coolant in them if its getting to the heater core. Once you close the radiator , and bring the car to normal operating temperature the firewall hoses should be warm to hot
Great tool !!!!!! Didn’t even have to take the hubs off the car. But it costs a ship load of money for a DIYer who is probably going to use it once or twice. Very important on this tool is to use some oil on the forcing bolt”s threads to minimize wear. I just bought the heart of the tool (forcing bolt+nut , and the grappler) on amazon, and the adapters form Harbor Freight with a 20% coupon. Way better deal for a DIYer. Although Harbor Freight set does not have all of the adapters as the OTC , but for my repair (’06 mdx ) it did. I’ve noticed that the hardest part of this tools job is to free the bearing from the hub, once the bearing gets free then the tool forces it out with ease. Nice job Eric on the demo.
Replace it. Any repairing is not full proof and you don’t want to get stranded somewhere, when it fails.
It might, but you’ll know for sure it’s the abs system and nothing else. Once you reconnect the module or fuse which ever way you disable the abs after a couple of drive cycles or even disconnecting the battery for a minute should reset the abs light if it turns on.
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