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Though Gasoline will not clean Injectors.. By the way, there is no need for lubrication on injectors, the pin needles dont require it and the mechanism that moves it is sealed. The residue you speak of is usually the massive amounts of varnish that gasoline created on the fuel tank and fuel pump and filter. E85 itself is a cleaner. If you clean the tank and change the fuel filter, the line varnish should go away with a little use. A lot of people blame E85 for clogging things, when they fail to notice that its really the Junk Gas that caused all the problems to start with. If you look at a Vehicle that has never run gasoline at more than 15% concentration, the parts never turn color, even after 100,000 miles. I would never run Gasoline with a setup you have…there really is no need to be honest. BTW, your setup sounds awesome. I have never seen a 2.3L running 690hp with gas.. because its impossible. Any2.3L that do, run a form of Alcohol of Aviation gas, shich is loosely labeled “gas” since there is so little in it.
One could also be said of the backing of your statement to be black washed, where if it was ok in 1885, it is ok today. I honestly prefer to make things better and ore efficient. Gone are the days of 12mpg and 8:1 compression ratios, because they are inefficient and they emit extreme levels of pollution. If engines were updated to run such high octanes, catalytic converters would be a thing of the past, because an E85 engine produces only 33% of the emissions, most of that being from the 15% gasoline mix with a converter, than E85 without a converter. No converter means less restriction and more power, same as compression, that is why diesels are so efficient because of their 18-22:1 compression. Why light duty engines have not been modernized in their efficiency since the 1920’s is beyond me. Compression is nearly the same as it was then, the tunnel vision of making gas burn better has reached it limit. Now they are looking to reduce car weight, and add compression with Turbos which is 10X more expensive then just stroking already made engines to achieve a compression ration of 14-15:1 which runs on E85. They have been proven time and time again they are more efficient than gas engines and produce over 30% more power than gasoline, which pure gasoline only has 62 octane, the rating of 87 or higher is NOT due to Gasoline, it is due to toxic Aromatics added to the gasoline. Pure Gas, went away in the 1920s when compression rations rose. Now Aromatics are being looked at the same as Lead was, and I am sure the Black Washed minds will reject the ideas just like they did when lead was removed from gasoline. As far as component durability, E85 , like any other solvent, such as Benzene, Toluene, Xylene, Acetone etc, will not harm any component of a modern auto system unless you use a rag for a gas cap, then any way will harm the system, even if you use gasoline. One difference, Ethanol will still burn when water some is absorbed, Gasoline doesn’t absorb water, thus you will pick it up in raw form from the sending unit, and completely trash the fuel system from the engine back to the tank. That is why the whole HEET additive and Gasoline and fuel injection additive industry is a billion dollar industry. E85 does the same thing, and would put a LOT of these companies out of business.
if you have a sealed fuel system, like all cars built after 1996, it wont absorb water. Also, Gasoline has a shelf life of 45 days, even with stabilizer, it is only 90 days after that time, it will varnish and be completely nonburnable and clog every single filter you have. Ethanol at 85% will keep for years if you use more than a rag to seal your fuel system. Also All Small Engines built after 1996 are designed for E10. If you are still using a chainsaw, leaf blower of weedeater after 20 years, I want to know the brand and model… because nothing I have ever owned and used regularly has lasted more than a few years due to crappy chinese parts that cast more to fix than a new, that if they can even be fixed as most cant anymore.
I had E85 in a flex fuel truck in storage for two years.. After charging the battery, it fired right up, no issues at all. It had a new Fuel cap before I put it in storage. Ethanol doesnt go bad like gas, and if one has a good sealed fuel system, it wont run into any issues. However, E85 even in a sealed jar, turns ever so slightly due to the small amount of gasoline that turns to varnish, but that has no effect on the Alcohol, just turns it slightly darker, similar to a straw color instead of clear..
Every Small Engine built in the USA since 1998 is designed to run E10 fuel. If you still run a 2 cycle from before that time, I would love to know what brand and model it is. ALso, when you run between 20-30% Ethanol, A standard Gas engine can not tell the difference and will get identical mpg. The reason, I suspect that the US standard is 10% is because that is the mix rate that burns more fuel, and Oil companies love selling more fuel, if the mix was mandated to be 20% you would see mpg increase on all road cars, which is not in Big Oils best interest.
Eric, I think some of the comments are right on, Maybe you should consider an E85 build for the Ford Engine. Very High Compression +E85 makes for higher horsepower and Torque than running on Gasoline of any grade since E85 has a 105 Octane index, so a 14:1 C/R would be awesome. Be sure to go all Forged components if you go this route. 🙂
I had the PCM Flashed, and took it for a test drive. It kept wanting to go to first gear, parked it and found that the smallest rotation was maxing out the voltage at almost 5 volts. Warrantied out the TPS for a new one, and all is well now. it took 2 sensors to get a new one. Now, it still has the bit of jerking at a stand still in drive, but not nearly as bad as it did. I am looking into cleaning and or replacing the IAC valve next to it and see if that clears everything up.
I had the PCM Flashed, and took it for a test drive. It kept wanting to go to first gear, parked it and found that the smallest rotation was maxing out the voltage at almost 5 volts. Warrantied out the TPS for a new one, and all is well now. it took 2 sensors to get a new one. Now, it still has the bit of jerking at a stand still in drive, but not nearly as bad as it did. I am looking into cleaning and or replacing the IAC valve next to it and see if that clears everything up.
I get good voltage at idle and reference voltage. It will not raise when throttle body shaft is rotated. I have performed every check you mentioned, new battery and a plethora of other new things. This is why the Dealer cant even figure out why it is doing what it is doing. I am wondering if the PCM is bad. The only two codes I get are misfires and TPS voltage too low. which go hand in hand since the car doesn’t know how much fuel to feed at throttle.
I get good voltage at idle and reference voltage. It will not raise when throttle body shaft is rotated. I have performed every check you mentioned, new battery and a plethora of other new things. This is why the Dealer cant even figure out why it is doing what it is doing. I am wondering if the PCM is bad. The only two codes I get are misfires and TPS voltage too low. which go hand in hand since the car doesn’t know how much fuel to feed at throttle.
I attempted to do both a repeat install from the original position, and a 180 degree mount. With the 180 mount position, I disconnected the battery overnight and upon attempt to start it today, it will crank but not start, so it seems I need to check a fuel pump fuse and the inertia switch in the trunk area. It will be rotated and installed with sensor connection point away from the intake, as the previous TPS was.
Reading the sensor from the connector with the sensor off the throttle body, I get a good reading with the Ignition on, with a perfect voltage curve using a manual rotation, but once is it bolted back on, it looses all of its potentiometer effects and sits at a 0.4 volt reading, no mater how much Throttle Body shaft rotation you give it. It is dumping snow like crazy here in eastern TN and with the car outside, further diagnosis is on hold for a day or two.
Once I am able to get back on it, I will run a check through the PCM pins to verify continuity of the wiring harness to the sensor plug. Having a new Battery, TPS sensor and Throttle body, I can pretty much rule out a part issue on the intake end. The only codes being thrown are, TPS voltage low and Misfires which are due to issue of low voltage.
I also wanted to note, that the Dealership kept it for 4 days about 2 weeks ago in attempt to diagnose it and advised me they could not find the reason it has this problem, and the Service Manager advised me to get rid of it as soon as possible.
I usually do not let a challenge like this surpass me, but even I know that there must be a point where everyone must draw the line of feasibility for a fix, and that line is getting very close for me. I really like the car, and for a Taurus, 148,000 miles on a 2004 model is not all that much comparatively to average life expectancy of these cars. Thanks for all of your help in this frustrating matter. – Kimiko Yuuki
I attempted to do both a repeat install from the original position, and a 180 degree mount. With the 180 mount position, I disconnected the battery overnight and upon attempt to start it today, it will crank but not start, so it seems I need to check a fuel pump fuse and the inertia switch in the trunk area. It will be rotated and installed with sensor connection point away from the intake, as the previous TPS was.
Reading the sensor from the connector with the sensor off the throttle body, I get a good reading with the Ignition on, with a perfect voltage curve using a manual rotation, but once is it bolted back on, it looses all of its potentiometer effects and sits at a 0.4 volt reading, no mater how much Throttle Body shaft rotation you give it. It is dumping snow like crazy here in eastern TN and with the car outside, further diagnosis is on hold for a day or two.
Once I am able to get back on it, I will run a check through the PCM pins to verify continuity of the wiring harness to the sensor plug. Having a new Battery, TPS sensor and Throttle body, I can pretty much rule out a part issue on the intake end. The only codes being thrown are, TPS voltage low and Misfires which are due to issue of low voltage.
I also wanted to note, that the Dealership kept it for 4 days about 2 weeks ago in attempt to diagnose it and advised me they could not find the reason it has this problem, and the Service Manager advised me to get rid of it as soon as possible.
I usually do not let a challenge like this surpass me, but even I know that there must be a point where everyone must draw the line of feasibility for a fix, and that line is getting very close for me. I really like the car, and for a Taurus, 148,000 miles on a 2004 model is not all that much comparatively to average life expectancy of these cars. Thanks for all of your help in this frustrating matter. – Kimiko Yuuki
Glitch in the system, entire post just disappeared. So I will type a shorter version out. My car is 3rd owner and is a DOHC Duratec, not a OHV Vulcan, and the TPS was on the opposite direction, plug in to the rear. I am not sure if it was foctory or not, as the previous owner ran it 133,000 miles with factory spark plugs in it… if that tells you anything about its history. It was treated like a borrowed mule.
I will try this method. I will post back any results positive or negative.
ThanksGlitch in the system, entire post just disappeared. So I will type a shorter version out. My car is 3rd owner and is a DOHC Duratec, not a OHV Vulcan, and the TPS was on the opposite direction, plug in to the rear. I am not sure if it was foctory or not, as the previous owner ran it 133,000 miles with factory spark plugs in it… if that tells you anything about its history. It was treated like a borrowed mule.
I will try this method. I will post back any results positive or negative.
ThanksThe Original Throttle Body on the car is where this started, so I replaced it with one off another Taurus Vin code S engine, as the shaft impeller to rotate the TPS has become broken.. somehow. I learned this after I was tested the Factory TPS, which had 147k miles since 2003. To say the least, this car has been a real tool, and a huge drain on the bank account, continuously wanting more of my money to fix failing parts.
I have not read The resistance on the sensor, but i know after I installed it, rotating the throttle to full, I got no voltage curve whatsoever.
Before this repair, I had a new starter installed, and a flexplate, #3 Catalytic converter removed, new EGR Pressure Sensor, New EGR Valve and gaskets. This was from December to present. The other 12 months I owned it, it has had a full tune up, plugs, gaskets and a new coil pack on #1 coil. It has also had a new Oil Seal installed on the pan as well. Other than that, I believe it has had new timing belts and Serpentine belt, O2 sensor and a Water Temp sensor installed prior to my ownership. It has always had a slight stumble since i owned it, and has never went away fully.
I have not checked a MAP sensor on it, but I should state the hesitation worsens when at operating temperature, and if you turn the engine off and restart it, the symptoms are 10x worse. If it were a 4th Gen GM F-Body, it woudl have been fixed, as this make platform is my specialty, but this Taurus… is near impossible.