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I am guessing maybe radio was left on a station that was playing rap music!!!!
I think she sounds pretty nice, although I probably would not want to be beside you on a 4 lane with my window down when you floor it!Well, I am not a mechanic by trade or a student, matter of a fact getting to close to being to old for either!
As many has posted earlier, relax, do not take everything to serious. Just when you find the answer to the riddle, some one will change the question!
Just knowing you are trying to come out perfect on every result tells me you could be setting yourself up to be a perfectionist. That is way to much of a load to carry.And while you are at it, do not neglect to check timing belt tensioner for wear. If it spins to freely, change it.
I would say throw out bearing is bad also. That bearing is getting so loose the wind is practically spinning it. I have seen several do the same thing by quieting the noise when pushing in clutch.
The growl under load you are talking about could be just a W.A.G.!I have a car that I have same thing with. I started grabbing metal part of door before stepping out, seems to take care of the zap!
Thanks guys, I almost forgot my own thread!!! (C.R.S.S.!!!)
Dip stick comes out straight, and does not make a difference on rotating. I will probably pull the tube when I have a chance.I have to question universal joints in drive shafts if this has them.
In the past 30 years of pickups, I have seen this happen a number of times under a load.
I guess I missed the part of the rpm fluttering!Take a drill to the head of the bolts to remove the head of screw. If you do not have a hand impact to drive them off that is the only way to do it. Them screws are not needed. If you can find the proper thread of a metric bolt which, is the same size as the 2 screws holding drum on, you will see 2 threaded holes that you may be able to jack that drum off. Before doing that, use a small ball peen hammer to set a good vibration around the drum to help break any corrosion apart.
There is no wheel spin type adjuster on them. It is a slide like with teeth on each meeting point that bites to each other when setting up the shoe. Probably will not be able to find away to back it off, just a little cursing will work!Put some additives in the oil for cleaning the engine first. Then drive it hard, blow the snot out of it. You may have stuck rings from sitting.
I have actually seen this in service repair manuals on some cars. I have used impacts and never had a problem either.
Chances are you will do more damage to other things tugging on a cheater bar and wedging some thing in flywheel ring to break bolt loose.
I have seen Kilmer crank the engine with a breaker bar in place to break it loose. Now that I would recommend against that!Good luck on the rebuild.
The 302’s were a good engine, but seemed to be elusive to not having oil leaks!Did not have time to read all the responses, so sorry if this is redundant.
1000 ml/128 ounces a galon = 7.8 ml per ounce.
3.4 ounce x 7.8 ml = 26.52 ml
26.52 ml /60 seconds = .442 ml a second.
So round off to aprox. half of a ml per second. Hope that helps.Quoted From Texarkana:
Thanks, I know there alot of conflicting info about synthetic oils. My co-signer keeps bitching about how if I switch back to convention at any point during the life of the engine I’ll ruin it. Bunch of BS, You can switch back and forth a couple times, not every oil change.
Yep, I believe another hocus pocus B.S.
I have switched back and forth on cars with no problems.