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Metal seems stronger than rubber, but movement and vibration will fatigue metal quickly and it just breaks. I think you should try another supplier for those rubber rings. Make sure the exhaust system is supported properly and check to see if your motor mounts are intact.
I think you need to ask yourself a few questions about the demands your driving places on oil. First consult your owners manual. You will find that all auto manufacturers recommend one oil change interval for “normal” conditions and another for “severe” conditions. You would do best to follow these recommendations and I think you will find that the most experienced and knowledgeable fellows here on this forum will give you the same advice.
On the other hand, there are a lot of fearful fellows who think you need to exceed the manufacturer’s recommendations – use synthetic oil or change every 3,000 miles.
I’m one of these guys so I use synthetic oil and the “severe” schedule. I change my oil and filter myself and I’m retired, so I don’t mind doing it, and it’s cheap for me. I’m used to older cars and trucks with carburetors and distributors with contact points as well as Alfa Romeos with mechanical F.I. and solid lifters that had to be adjusted every 16K miles, so if I just changed my oil in my 2004 Acura every 10K miles, (or even 5K miles like the “severe” schedule recommends) I would break out in hives just worrying that I wasn’t doing squat to maintain my car!
I think there are a lot of us nowadays who ought to be following the “severe” schedule because short trips put additional strain on your oil. If you commute to work (or Starbucks) every day and put 15 or 20 minutes on your car, you get poor mpg, and put stress on your oil. Follow the “severe” schedule if only for your peace of mind.
If you sometimes exceed the mileage interval and find yourself changing oil late, use a synthetic like Mobil 1 (I’m a Castrol Synthetic person, but that’s because I knew somebody at Castrol corporate who knew the score and told me it was as good as Mobil 1). Plenty of experienced folks like Royal Purple, so get down and funky with that if you like.[url=http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sa=X&ei=iaKwT_fiDPPKiQKkp4j6Aw&ved=0CFwQvwUoAQ&q=ford+loans+from+government&spell=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=a026b5e33ed2fa7&biw=1680&bih=925:45g2mkcu]http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sa=X&ei=iaKwT_fiDPPKiQKkp4j6Aw&ved=0CFwQvwUoAQ&q=ford+loans+from+government&spell=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=a026b5e33ed2fa7&biw=1680&bih=925
O[/url]f course, Ford takes money from taxpayers. I’m amazed by people who complain about the price of gasoline. Government subsidies (welfare) to oil companies is paid on top of what you pay per gallon and the oil companies don’t need it.If you have the 3800 V6 in your Mercury, there’s a special procedure to follow to burp the cooling system. It’s in the owner’s manual. This engine has the thermostat housing mounted to the front of the engine block well below the water passages in the intake manifold. There’s a bleeder valve located on top of the intake manifold in plain view. This valve is is used to circulate coolant to the intake manifold when the engine is running. It’s of no use in filling the engine when the engine is not running because the system will fill to level of the thermostat housing and no further.
In that you re-installed the intake manifold and distributor, you need to set your ignition timing correctly with a timing light. If it’s off enough, this will cause the engine temp to climb.
[url=http://cliffcheat.blogspot.com/2010/11/check-valve-adjustment.html:3jsd5bku]http://cliffcheat.blogspot.com/2010/11/check-valve-adjustment.html
H[/url]ere’s an illustration of a cam lobe “on the base circle” or “heel” of the contact surface The low part of the lobe sits on the “pad” and the valve lash is ready to adjust. If you’re off a few degrees either way, the valve is still completely closed.
I would call the “rocker” in this drawing a “finger”, but I’m picky.Bad dude,
Check out the second illustration . This shows a typical DOHC (dual overhead cam) arrangement on an older engine. There’s no “finger” (or rocker) and the camshaft has to be removed to adjust the valve by means of shim.
This shows a cam lobe “on the base circle” or heel, and ready to adjust.
In Eric’s video, the cam is visible, but it’s hard to see under the rocker.
I did not answer your other questions about gas mileage and so on, because Eric answered them in his videoThat’s a fancy way of saying the valve needs to be closed. With an overhead camshaft engine, you can see the cam lobes when you’re adjusting valves. When the peak of the lobe points directly opposite the rocker or follower, the valve is closed.
The low side of the cam lobe is called the heel or base circle. When the heel rests on the follower, the valve is closed and ready to adjust.[url=http://cliffcheat.blogspot.com/2010/11/check-valve-adjustment.html:1ew44l09]http://cliffcheat.blogspot.com/2010/11/check-valve-adjustment.html
H[/url]ere’s an illustration of a cam lobe “on the base circle” or “heel” of the contact surface The low part of the lobe sits on the “pad” and the valve lash is ready to adjust. If you’re off a few degrees either way, the valve is still completely closed.
I would call the “rocker” in this drawing a “finger”, but I’m picky.You really need to tell us the vintage of the machine.
If you’re working on an old engine without electronic controls, then the term “tune-up” applies.
If you’re working on a late model engine, anything from the late 1980s to the present, most of them require none of the maintenance we used to call a “tune-up”.
The owner’s manual of your car will tell you what is required and when.
If you have an old engine or problem with your car, you may be interested in a correct sequence of operations to perform. Let us know.Bad dude,
Check out the second illustration . This shows a typical DOHC (dual overhead cam) arrangement on an older engine. There’s no “finger” (or rocker) and the camshaft has to be removed to adjust the valve by means of shim.
This shows a cam lobe “on the base circle” or heel, and ready to adjust.
In Eric’s video, the cam is visible, but it’s hard to see under the rocker.
I did not answer your other questions about gas mileage and so on, because Eric answered them in his videoThat’s a fancy way of saying the valve needs to be closed. With an overhead camshaft engine, you can see the cam lobes when you’re adjusting valves. When the peak of the lobe points directly opposite the rocker or follower, the valve is closed.
The low side of the cam lobe is called the heel or base circle. When the heel rests on the follower, the valve is closed and ready to adjust.[url=http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Carter/TQ-index.html:1k7lfy3f]http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Carter/TQ-index.html
I[/url]s it a Carter Thermo quad?
http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Carter/TQ-index.html
Sounds like your battery and alternator are not involved in the problem.
Was the truck running well before this happened?
Checking for vacuum leaks would be among the first things to do. Then check your ignition timing with a timing light. (If it’s off, you may bring up the idle speed by correcting the timing.)
Most 1984 Suburbans came with 350 V8s and computer controlled Quadrajets. Like all carbs, they may need overhaul as frequently as fifty thousand miles. If yours hasn’t been rebuilt in some years or it has over 60K miles on it, it could easily be the source of your problem.
Check your ignition timing first, then check spark plugs. If they’re carbon fouled, suspect the carb.
If the carb is at fault and appears to need adjustment, you need a digital multimeter (DVOM) and the specs for your settings.