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Hi Eric,
I began cleaning the two headlights about two years ago. They came out looking like new. I used a Rubbing Compound then a Polishing Compound and a cheap buffer. It seems that once they’re renewed, they last a few months, then begin to get filmy again. I have also used Zymol car wax on them in hopes of protecting them, but that seems to make no difference.
Anyway, I have one headlight that is now turning yellow inside, so I believe it’s leaking and needs to be replaced. Perhaps your parts supplier has some idea of the quality of the headlights they carry. I imagine that an Auto Body shop would be ordering them regularly and have some years of experience with them.
If they buy a brand that “comes back”, I reckon they will switch to another brand.
Can you ask them if they have a preference or know of any brands to steer clear of?Quoted From a76montecarlo:
ok thanx for all the input guys here is some more info on the carb its not a 650cfm its a 600 and model #65-80457. i have also noticed when i was lookin for the modle # i saw that the jets on the 2 barrels on the rear of the carb where dripping gas(at idle). is this normal? i also have the brake booster connected to the main vacuum line on the back of the carb is this ok or shout it be directly on the intake itself. i know have alot of questions but any and all help is very appreciated.
There should be no fuel delivery to the secondaries at idle and certainly no dripping. I think the dripping is most likely caused by a problem in the rear float housing. The needle and seat may need to be renewed, the float may need adjustment, it may need replacement, and you need to check for proper operation of the secondaries after you’ve checked everything else. This is done by warming the engine, then opening to wide open throttle with your hand, observing the secondary throttle. When you do this, the ignition timing has to be correct or you may get a backfire up through the carb. You also need to check to see the secondary throttle is CLOSED at idle.
Also, you may have a bad power valve on the primary side. You can check by removing the front float bowl, removing the power valve and sucking on it. If it’s good, it will open.
Take care of the problem with the fuel delivery to the secondaries first. If everything works at that point, you don’t need to check the power valve.
I’ve had to live with a few electric choke carbs and I’d rather have a manual choke. I live in California and have adjusted electric chokes in Southern CA where the summer temp goes over 100. I’ve lived in Northern CA where the temp is 10 degrees cooler. I’ve never had to adjust an electric choke for below freezing temp. Here’s what I do – Set the choke in the summer. I disconnect the wire to the choke and let it cool off completely, then I open the choke halfway, then I connect the choke wire and start the engine. If it stumbles, I give it more choke, but I don’t recall having to do this. With the engine running, I observe the choke opening. It may take around a minute. This works for me in hot weather. When the weather cools off, I will readjust the choke.
If you’ve had an old vehicle or a motorcycle with a manual choke, you know what you want out of your choke.Go back to page 3 and read Beefy’s advice. That’s what I would do. I’ll tell you why. Eric and College Man and the Corvette fellow speak from experience and offer good advice too.
I had to deal with this problem with a DOHC aluminum head in the early 1970’s, and I made sure I never had to deal with it again. I invested a lot of time and what seemed to be real money back then (don’t ask) trying to get the broken bolt out of an aluminum cyl head before I found I should have pulled the head off straight away. I think you ought to pull the head, and learn how to do this. It’s not that difficult and the knowledge will be beneficial to you for decades (unless internal combustion engines disappear).
Having broken a cam tower bolt myself, I became the guy to help out every “new B” that broke one subsequently. I have not worked on late model DOHC engines much, but I worked on them when very few mechanics were willing to do so.
The head will probably have to be removed. Why waste time?
There is another skill beginners need to acquire. When you use a forum like this, beware of advice that seems merely to be very well thought out. When I was 20 something, I was full of advice like that – brilliant stuff! (I was full of it, all-right.) But I hadn’t tested much of it against reality.
When someone tells you to do such and such, and he doesn’t tell you that it worked for him, that’s because HE HASN’T TRIED IT YET. Old guys may be just as willing to share great ideas, but young and old, careful teachers will tell you how the remedy has been tested, or how it has not.[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjfONpsFvyM:34yjlt3k]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjfONpsFvyM
H[/url]ave you seen Jack Nicholson’s 1979 hydrogen car?Thanks Beefy,
There’s quite a lot of stuff I don’t know, and more I have forgotten. My X wife had a 1992 T-bird with the 3.8 V6 and we ran into this problem around 1996. I spoke to several mechanics before I found one who knew about the 3.8 V6.
It will be interesting to hear from this fellow about what caused the problem.The old Fiat PininFarina spider had a radiator lower than the water neck and so it was hard to fill. A Fiat mechanic told me he would raise the front end of the car with a lift to fill the cooling system.
I read that Ford mechanics will remove the bolt from the vent on top of the intake manifold on the 3.8 and fill it with a funnel and a straw somehow. It might save some time over the procedure described in the owner’s manual which involves opening the vent while the engine is running. I think that the 3.8 Ford should be checked again the next day to see if you still get air out of the vent with the engine running.
Another possible problem area with a ’92 Ford 3.8 liter V6 is the need to burp the air out of the cooling system. The 3.8 has the thermostat housing on the front of the engine block. When the cooling system is filled, there will be an air pocket above the T-stat housing up to the top of the intake manifold. The temperature sensor reads the temp of the air pocket which is cooler than the coolant. This results in a temperature gauge that reads cool and a rich mixture as if the car has just been started from dead cold. The rich mixture fouls the spark plugs and the additional load of the air cond can stall the engine at a stop light or perhaps up to 20 mph. If you have the car at 40, 60, mph or more, the engine will not stall, but the temp gauge will probably still read too cool.
The owner’s manual will include a special procedure for burping the air out. I haven’t done it in years and do not remember it well enough to include it here. The standard procedure for “bleeding a cooling system” will not work on the 3.8 Ford.Let us know how you’re progressing and I’ll see if I can find a description of the procedure.
If you don’t like leaving the T connector, you can use a short length of hose plus the connector, then remove them after you’re finished. Then you don’t have to cut a hose under the hood. I’ve used this method and it’s reassuring to see the crud flow out of the system.
Some professionals don’t mind leaving a small quantity of of old coolant in the system as the difference is barely significant.[url=http://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-truth-about-epa-city-highway-mpg-estimates:3vugndbd]http://www.caranddriver.com/features/the-truth-about-epa-city-highway-mpg-estimates
I[/url] read a number of articles about your question through a Google search, and this one seems to be the best. It’s 4 pages but the subject is at least that complicated and there are surprising facts on every page.
For instance, in comparing EPA figures versus European figures for “highway” mileage, the testing is very different and the EPA comes up with much lower numbers. A vehicle rated at 60mpg by European authorities, would score in the mid forties on the EPA Highway tests.You can ask the machine shop to “surface to clean”. This is something they often do as part of a rebuild.
If you don’t want to spend the extra few dollars to do this, you need to remove all gasket material and run your hand over the surface to see if you missed anything and check with a straightedge and feeler gauges.
In that it leaked on you, I would surface to clean.If you watch that fellow’s video on YouTube, you find a link he provides that claims the German VW diesel will get over 70 mpg in US gallons. They say this was demonstrated for a Guinness World Record. Does Guinness allow the “techniques” used by Mpg competitions like coasting with the engine turned off, crawling up to speed, and almost never using brakes? I’ve read that these competitions yield huge Mpg gains. You have to be a wee bit wacko to do that sort of thing.
http://www.vehix.com/blog/most-popular/fuel-efficient/vw-tdi-drives-1531-miles-on-one-tankhttp://www.snopes.com/politics/business/passat.asp
Snopes.com says that the VW blue motion diesel gets mid forties mpg on US gallons. The article is short and very informative.
Snopes says there are cars that sell in Europe and not here because people over there will buy something like the Passat Blue Motion which does 0 to 60 in 12.5 seconds. Over here, people will trash mouth cars that do 0 to 60 in 10 seconds. Consider the new US Fiat 500. It does 0 to 60 in about 10 seconds and will get 42 mpg according to Consumer Reports, 39.5 mpg according to Edmunds and 38 mpg according to the EPA. Yet there are reviews that complain about slow acceleration. Fiat announced plans to sell the 133 hp turbo version of the 500 here in the US to improve acceleration. The 500 Abarth Turbo goes on sale here soon and that has 160 hp. But Fiat says they will not sell the 500 “twin-air” 2 cylinder in the US because Americans won’t buy it in sufficient numbers. The 500 Twin-Air is very popular in Europe and is capable of great mileage.
I think that poor fellow who made that video probably knows almost nothing about engines or diesel or the EPA or politics or even English and German pronunciation. Volkswagen is pronounced “Vokes wagon” and there’s no fur in familiar.
He also assumes the diesel VW is is EPA tested for emissions on a per gallon basis. I think the EPA tests for emissions on a per mile basis. Is diesel given a fair shake by the EPA. I’m not sure. I have read a lot about how they test and it seems obvious they make every effort to be fair and accurate, but there are difficulties comparing automatics to manuals, hybrids to conventional cars, and there a few cars like the Fiat 500 that score higher in real world tests than the EPA lab tests because the Fiat (and others) use unusual technology.[url=http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/fuel-sipper-smackdown-4-which-car-gets-the-best-fuel-economy.html:3llmqi0f]http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/fuel-sipper-smackdown-4-which-car-gets-the-best-fuel-economy.html
I[/url] think this comparison test is one of the best sources of info about what a VW diesel will do in the real world. This is not Bluemotion VW, but realize the difference is a smaller less powerful engine, an alternator that de-couples and little else. BlueMotion is not any advanced diesel technology exclusive to VW. I think the BlueMotion VW might have some trouble keeping up with the other green cars tested. Out of five green cars, three are impressive and they take unusual technological approaches to high mpg. The Chevy Volt gets the best mpg. It’s expensive but it’s also a desirable car for many purposes. The VW diesel got great mileage and pleased most of the drivers. The Fiat 500 is out of its element here on a long road trip. It’s supposed to be a “city car”. The Fiat has a gasoline engine with the most advanced electronic variable valve timing on the road and low end torque that permits low rpm cruising like a diesel. It can exceed the EPA estimates and the other cars in the test don’t meet them.
The Hyundai and Kia come in behind the others.
My question is which technology would you like to see in next years cars? Fiat’s “MultiAir” might be the winner over the Volt’s hybrid technology when you look at the initial and long term expense of the two technologies. And what of diesel engines versus MultiAir. The mpg is close. The fuel cost is higher for diesel and so is the initial cost. The diesel is probably at a disadvantage when it come to power and emissions too, but Fiat says they are working MultiAir for diesels. It’s a real possibility. After all, Fiat developed Common Rail Fuel Injection, the one huge improvement in diesel technology, now owned by Bosch and in use on everybody’s diesel engines.Everything he says is flawed. Where to start? US gallons are about 20% smaller than Euro/British gallons. Simply put, that VW diesel will not get anywhere near 70 mpg on a US gallon.
You would think this could be simple. After all, if you need to convert US dollars to Pounds or Euros, you just google the current exchange rate and do the math. If you drive a car in one place and imagine driving it in another, you can expect to get the same mileage out of a gallon if the gallon is of the same size. You can compare identical cars with identical drivers with identical gallons. You can compare EPA figures with other EPA figures because EPA tests are identical for similar cars. I’ve looked at mpg figures for cars from Europe and I’ve seen how they differ from the same cars sold here in the US. They don’t compare. Sometimes the difference is about 20%. Sometimes the difference is higher or lower. Not at all like exchanging currencies.So this fellow is angry that he can’t buy a dirty diesel here. I think reasonable people would be content with our cleaner diesels if they knew how little mpg difference there is between them.