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Two Lane Blacktop is available from the Criterion Collection on DVD. Libraries all over the country may have this edition, but it may not be in stock if you “walk in”, so ask for it. The Criterion DVD is re-mastered so the video is exceptional. This may be the widest wide screen movie you have ever seen at 2.35 to 1. The process used permits excellent depth of field (action in the foreground, mid-ground and background are all in focus). The director uses these features to tell the story. It’s an OK film on a small TV, but if you have a bigger wide screen set, it’s a great one.
Two Lane Blacktop is available from the Criterion Collection on DVD. Libraries all over the country may have this edition, but it may not be in stock if you “walk in”, so ask for it. The Criterion DVD is re-mastered so the video is exceptional. This may be the widest wide screen movie you have ever seen at 2.35 to 1. The process used permits excellent depth of field (action in the foreground, mid-ground and background are all in focus). The director uses these features to tell the story. It’s an OK film on a small TV, but if you have a bigger wide screen set, it’s a great one.
A friend of mine told me the Toyota dealer wanted $900.00 to replace his shock’s and struts on his 4Runner. I told him, “You have shocks front and rear.” He asked me how I knew. From a distance of 20 some odd feet, I could see the suspension above the front tire. I think some 4Runners have struts up front if they’re non 4 wheel drive, but this might not apply to all year models.
If you do have struts up front, you may be able to remove them and take them to a shop where they MAY change the struts out of the springs for a reasonable price. (They may be reasonable or maybe not.) If you have a compressor, an air wrench, a big vice, rent some spring compressors and do it yourself, but it’s dangerous.For more specific advice, post the year of your 4Runner and let us know if it is 4 wheel drive or not.
When you say it has “stopped turning all the way over”, what do you mean? When you engage the starter, do you hear the starter turning the crankshaft less than one full turn, or does the starter turn the crankshaft again and again and the engine does not start?
I bought a set of extra long box wrenches in the early 1970’s. I thought I needed one of them for an MGB that I had for a couple years. They were very pretty and very expensive. Then they sat in my toolbox for decades doing nothing. I gave them away in 2004. I imagine the poor fool who may be using them today doesn’t need them and is in the process of learning that ordinary length wrenches are easy to use if you like to apply the correct torque, and extra length box wrenches are just great for applying too much torque which is an effective way to to strip threads or break bolts.
On the other hand, there may be a make of car today that has bolts and nuts that cannot be reached with an ordinary length wrench. Just remember that if you push hard on them, you can break bolts and strip threads.Most professional mechanics would not be without PB Blaster penetrating oil in a spray can. A friend of mine is a fan of Mouse Milk penetrating oil. He has been a pro mechanic for over 40 years and most recently dealer mechanic for a Harley dealer. Motorcycle mechanics often have to remove stuck bolts which are visible on the bike and not hidden under the bodywork or hood of a four wheeler. I’ve used Mouse Milk only once to remove a spark plug that would not yield to PB Blaster.
Mouse Milk can be found on the internet and in parts stores for aircraft. I recall that Lycoming recommends it, but don’t quote me on that. Your local professional plumbing supply may also carry it.
I have read about Mouse Milk on several forums. Some professionals say it’s no better than PB Blaster. Some say it’s better. I have had experience with PB Blaster and other penetrating oils. I wouldn’t buy anything less than PB or Mouse Milk. If they don’t work you need heat or impact. You can buy a propane torch for few bucks and you’re all set.
I have used my 4 inch Makita high speed grinder to cut into stuck nuts. I haven’t had to cut into them very far or ruin any bolt threads. The nuts heat up right away and come loose. This method applies heat without using a torch and that scary fire.Quite possibly, your PS pump is frozen. This would explain the belt not moving. The PS pump is holding it in place. The pulley on the crank is spinning when the engine is running, so it has probably damaged the serpentine belt. You could go start the engine up again and observe the movement of the crank pulley. (If the crank pulley isn’t moving there’s distinct possibility that the engine is not running. 😉
In any event, you’ll need to remove the belt. Do follow good instructions for the removal and replacement of the belt and use the proper tool to move the tensioner pulley as this task can be dangerous. If you need to buy a breaker bar, Harbor Freight is good for this.
With the belt off, you can check all of the pulleys to see if they spin freely. Possibly one of the other pulleys is frozen and the PS pump is OK. Be sure to check all of them. If the tensioner pulley is worn, for example, you will be able to tell. Let’s hope nothing expensive is frozen.Hi, I began my response before Big C posted his, so I had not seen his before I posted mine.
I reckon his instructions would apply to a vehicle with V-belts and not so well to a surpentine belt engine.
On the other hand, he points out something I missed. Do you have tension on that surpentine belt?
Tension on V-belts is usually adjusted by moving the ancillaries (PS pump, alternator, etc.) Surpentine belts are adjusted automatically by the tensioner (or idler pulley). If the spring in the tensioner wears out or breaks, the belt slips. If the tensioner is good, the travel as you move the belt is within a distance specified for your engine.
I would test the tensioner by moving it with my breaker bar with the engine running. This is safe for me to do with my car and my skill level, so I wouldn’t recommend it willy nilly. If I were to do this with your car, (apply the tension manually), and we found the PS pump was frozen, we’d condemn the pump. If we tension the surpentine belt manually and everything works, we know the tensioner is worn or kaput.I think you need a means of correcting gearhead pronunciation. I’m so tired of hearing Iskenderian pronounced “Iss-kuh-dern”, Edelbrock called “Ell-duh-block” and Dunlop called “Dun- lap”. I’m sure you’ll get right on that.
I may be able to clear up the confusion here. Eric recommends adjusting the clearance on each valve when the cam lobe is on the base circle (180 degrees opposite the peak of the lobe) because your engine has an overhead camshaft that is visible when the cover is removed. If we were talking about a pushrod engine (like the Chevy small block V8) we would not be able to see the lobes, so we would follow the instructions for that engine (We would line up our timing marks for number one cylinder TDC on the compression stroke and this would set the lobes for number one cylinder on their base circles permitting adjustment of clearance for number one exhaust and intake.)
If you can’t see the cam lobes, lining up the timing marks is critical. When coaching DIY mechanics, if they’re working on an overhead cam engine, “Do not adjust clearance on any valve unless the cam lobe is on the base circle.” is the best advice.
I have a 2004 Acura RSX with 4 cylinders, dual overhead cams and 4 valves per cylinder. I’ll tell you how I adjust my valves because it may help you understand why you may follow different instructions for different engines. With the cam cover and spark plugs removed, I am able to see the cam lobes as well as timing marks on the 2 cam sprockets. There are two marks on each sprocket. When number one cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, one of the marks on each sprocket lines up with the other mark AND all four valves of number one are fully closed. I can see that all four lobes on number one cylinder are on their base circles. I then adjust these four. I turn the crankshaft 180 degrees and this brings the next cylinder in the firing order to TDC on the compression stroke. If I forget the firing order, I can still see a cylinder with four closed valves (Four cam lobes on their base circles.) I then adjust these four valves. Altogether, I have to turn the crank only four times.
Note that I really don’t need the timing marks and I don’t need to know the firing order with those visible cams. Nor do I need to start with number one cylinder. I can simply turn the crankshaft until I see one of the cylinders has all four valves closed and then make sure my four lobes are on their base circles.I may have confused some of you with my mention of pushrod engines and a method for adjusting valves on the Chevy small block V8. Most pushrod V8s have their valves adjusted with the engine running and there’s no need to look at timing marks. I’m inclined to remember my most recent experiences assembling Chevy V8s with aftermarket valve trains and making use of the timing marks.