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How many miles are on the car? In worn out engines the oil passages and clearances are bigger than if the engine was new and consequently the pressure drops. Replacing an oil pump will NOT fix this issue. Your best bet is to check the oil pressure sending unit to see if it is operating properly. My guess is that this is what is happening assuming your engine doesnt have a lot of miles. (And assuming you checked to see if your oil level is correct.)
My logic is that fuel from the combustion chamber is getting past the valves and into the oil supply. I checked every aspect of the fuel / carburetor system and everything checks out. The engine needs 0.5-0.65 quarts of oil and I put somewhere in between that into the engine.
So this means that there is no way to fix oil leaking into the combustion chamber than to send it to a machine shop and get the valve guides replaced?
I would check the compression but I am in Virginia and I left my compression gage back in Jersey.
Yes this is a push mower and it does run. It runs like crap but it does run. (Low RPM and intermittent vibration) I’ll check the compression next time I get a chance using your method.
Wish I had my compression gage! Maybe I’ll rent one.. But about the valve guides, is there any way I can replace them at home? Thanks!!
So I have checked all aspects of the float system in the carburetor and everything seems fine. I checked the new seal I put in to see if it is indeed sealing and it is. (I used compressed air.) There was no gas overflowing in the carburetor when I went to check it out yet when I drained the oil there was still gas in it! I do not understand how this is happening unless maybe the piston rings are getting worn or something. Adjusting the screw on the bottom of the float bowl did nothing to help the poor idle.
Any ideas? Replacing the parts in the carburetor didn’t help anything at all. I thought for sure replacing the seal would have worked since the old one was bad and the valve sits MUCH better with the new one in.
EDIT: The sparkplug also shows clear signs of burning oil. The engine is a Flathead type engine.
The information about my engine is..
Briggs and Stratton 625 Series 190cc
Model No: 122102-1308-B1-09021759Thanks!
I do not know much about this vehicle. You might want to go get a service manual or get an all data subscription. (It’s cheap!)
The trio of crows bit made me laugh haha.I would definitely say vent control system too. I also do not know the car, but those systems use several different ways of moving the blower motor door to redirect the air flow. (Vacuum, cable operated, solenoids) You would have to do a lot of digging around underneath the dashboard to isolate the problem. The part is probably not too expensive, but it will more than likely be a pain in the ass to get to.
Thanks for all the replies guys!
Well like I said, I am getting rid of the car anyway and I pretty much just want it as a project car really. My choices are, 1. Give it to a junkyard and get a couple bucks out of it or 2. Tinker around with it and THEN give it to a junkyard and make a couple bucks out of it. (If I cannot fix it up.) This isn’t something I plan on getting done in a few weeks. I will spend lots of time on it. Since I will not be driving it any longer, no better time to get some good ol’ hands on experience! I will do what dreamer suggested and look up the rebuild manual for my transmission. I never like to do any job without full knowledge of what to do and what could go wrong.Also my transmission isn’t electronically controlled so I know I have some sort of problem that would require a lot of work to fix.
Thanks again! 😀
Either your timing is off, or you have other major problems such as a blown head gasket or a cracked block. Ill bet on the timing being off just because it is affecting three cylinders. Do you have the numbers for the compression test?
You say you have a check engine light? Get yourself a scanner or go to autozone and find out what that code is.