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Hi from across the river … in Hatfield country, lol. Welcome to the forum!
– “Jersey” Jake, Marion/Monongalia County Line near Wetzel (WV).
There we go … give it a few more minutes, as it’s still uploading (dial-up sucks, but it’s the only option for under $100/mo., so that’s that I guess). Sorry for the piss-poor quality, but I am kinda rushing it out, and I guess it has all the quality you really need anyways to get the general idea. Gotta love these old engines … black with carbon, but she’s still not quite licked yet.
There we go … give it a few more minutes, as it’s still uploading (dial-up sucks, but it’s the only option for under $100/mo., so that’s that I guess). Sorry for the piss-poor quality, but I am kinda rushing it out, and I guess it has all the quality you really need anyways to get the general idea. Gotta love these old engines … black with carbon, but she’s still not quite licked yet.
You’d be impressed what the clearances were.
Either way, the piston, at TDC (when I had the head off to inspect for wear) comes clear up to the top of the block (dead even), and the valves are alongside the piston. I might have to pull the head off again to take pictures, but either way, yeah. It’s a rather odd design, flat-head and valves alongside the piston and all. I guess this way, if your timing gear (no chain, no belt, just gear-to-gear, 2;1 ratio) for the cam goes bye-bye, you have a never-interference engine. I was thinking maybe I could mix diesel fuel with the gasoline to get the octane down some (weird, I know, but find me a filling station with 40oct)? No way to mess with ignition timing, pre-set in the magneto, only thing you can do is re-gap the plugs … or maybe run 10000 miles of wire (cap = retarding timing). As far as the headgasket, it’s metal-to-metal, 0.01″ thickness, +/- 0.001″ factory spec. Never have to worry about pistons starting an intimate relationship with the valves, so I should be fine. Although spec is 6:1, I was wondering if that massive pocket might be the reason for it’s low compression? I can’t really shave the head much, it’s already pretty close to starting a meeting between my valves and spark plug, and I’m afraid much more and it’ll touch. These engines are a mess … but the fact that this thing survived this much, I feel a need to revive it, just for it’s historical aspect.
EDIT> Went downstairs, removed the head again (had it torqued to spec to check compression) and now I’ve got video of it (showing it, plus cranking the engine) but due to lack of, well, any phone coverage out here, I’m waiting on my computer to rebuild the video before I can upload it and share it. Either way, I’ll have video showing all the details of this engine soon enough, and then I’ll get that uploaded and post when I have it.
You’d be impressed what the clearances were.
Either way, the piston, at TDC (when I had the head off to inspect for wear) comes clear up to the top of the block (dead even), and the valves are alongside the piston. I might have to pull the head off again to take pictures, but either way, yeah. It’s a rather odd design, flat-head and valves alongside the piston and all. I guess this way, if your timing gear (no chain, no belt, just gear-to-gear, 2;1 ratio) for the cam goes bye-bye, you have a never-interference engine. I was thinking maybe I could mix diesel fuel with the gasoline to get the octane down some (weird, I know, but find me a filling station with 40oct)? No way to mess with ignition timing, pre-set in the magneto, only thing you can do is re-gap the plugs … or maybe run 10000 miles of wire (cap = retarding timing). As far as the headgasket, it’s metal-to-metal, 0.01″ thickness, +/- 0.001″ factory spec. Never have to worry about pistons starting an intimate relationship with the valves, so I should be fine. Although spec is 6:1, I was wondering if that massive pocket might be the reason for it’s low compression? I can’t really shave the head much, it’s already pretty close to starting a meeting between my valves and spark plug, and I’m afraid much more and it’ll touch. These engines are a mess … but the fact that this thing survived this much, I feel a need to revive it, just for it’s historical aspect.
EDIT> Went downstairs, removed the head again (had it torqued to spec to check compression) and now I’ve got video of it (showing it, plus cranking the engine) but due to lack of, well, any phone coverage out here, I’m waiting on my computer to rebuild the video before I can upload it and share it. Either way, I’ll have video showing all the details of this engine soon enough, and then I’ll get that uploaded and post when I have it.
1995 chevy diesel vin-s if memory serves. Came in and out of the shop where I worked about 18 times for ECU’s in 3 years (I was there for a little over a year, then went to Detroit for work, heard about the rest of the “visits” from this truck later from a friend of mine). For those who haven’t had the … err … pleasure of working on a Detroit 6.5L, the ECU, which is highly thermally-sensitive, uses the engine block as a “heat sink” to (you guessed it) keep it cool. Doesn’t really work. You’d think the engineers and corporates at GM would’ve figured that one out. Either way, it was there enough that most customers thought it was one of the tech’s vehicles, not a customer’s broken down truck. One time (in August) it broke down while towing a trailer, owner left the trailer at the back of the lot, limped the truck up to the garage, and it took 3 months for parts. When they picked up the truck, they literally made it as far as the trailer, hitched up, and made it about a hundred yards before the new ECU bit the dust. Yes, fyi, I hate the 6.5L diesel with a passion.
1995 chevy diesel vin-s if memory serves. Came in and out of the shop where I worked about 18 times for ECU’s in 3 years (I was there for a little over a year, then went to Detroit for work, heard about the rest of the “visits” from this truck later from a friend of mine). For those who haven’t had the … err … pleasure of working on a Detroit 6.5L, the ECU, which is highly thermally-sensitive, uses the engine block as a “heat sink” to (you guessed it) keep it cool. Doesn’t really work. You’d think the engineers and corporates at GM would’ve figured that one out. Either way, it was there enough that most customers thought it was one of the tech’s vehicles, not a customer’s broken down truck. One time (in August) it broke down while towing a trailer, owner left the trailer at the back of the lot, limped the truck up to the garage, and it took 3 months for parts. When they picked up the truck, they literally made it as far as the trailer, hitched up, and made it about a hundred yards before the new ECU bit the dust. Yes, fyi, I hate the 6.5L diesel with a passion.
Anyone else ever buy those snap-on ratchets with like 120 or so gear teeth? I’ve been tempted to buy one for a while now, since my ancient craftsman hand-me-down (from the tool kit my grandfather bought “when he came back from THE WAR” – in 1948) although tough as nails, doesn’t really have many gear teeth (maybe 15-20, idk). Looking to get a wrench for working on my cruze, the welder, and the Trans Am (which has zero work space … I swear that car was designed by a bunch of legless midgets who just hate the world of people like me who are 6’6 300), plus all the other misc. vehicles friends of mine bring over to get fixed cheap. I wish there were a snap-on distributor around here, but sadly, the best I can buy out in this “neck of the woods” is … what’s that off-brand they sell at Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts?
Anyone else ever buy those snap-on ratchets with like 120 or so gear teeth? I’ve been tempted to buy one for a while now, since my ancient craftsman hand-me-down (from the tool kit my grandfather bought “when he came back from THE WAR” – in 1948) although tough as nails, doesn’t really have many gear teeth (maybe 15-20, idk). Looking to get a wrench for working on my cruze, the welder, and the Trans Am (which has zero work space … I swear that car was designed by a bunch of legless midgets who just hate the world of people like me who are 6’6 300), plus all the other misc. vehicles friends of mine bring over to get fixed cheap. I wish there were a snap-on distributor around here, but sadly, the best I can buy out in this “neck of the woods” is … what’s that off-brand they sell at Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts?
Welcome aboard … and good luck with your studies. Stick with it, work hard, and you should’t have too much trouble.
Welcome aboard … and good luck with your studies. Stick with it, work hard, and you should’t have too much trouble.