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Some things sometimes just can’t be explained. Probably had a bad connection somewhere. The problem may or may not return. Maybe you will be lucky.
It seems like you have put up with the crap long enough. Tell em if you can’t fix it, trade you for a reliable car of equal value or tell them to keep it until it’s repaired with a supplied loner car.
I would begin with making sure the rear brakes have some lining left on them and that they are adjusted properly with a slight drag while spinning the wheels.
I suggest you bleed fluid from all 4 wheels and post the results hereThese video’s may help you..
Do you mean variable valve timing solenoid? If so you should be able to buy one from a Honda store and replace it yourself.
If money is a problem perhaps you could pick up a good used hub at a salvage yard. Most give you a warranty too.
I understand that you don’t want to throw parts at your jeep but any time I have the same complaint with an older jeep it’s been a plugged radiator core or loose fins. Used to be a good radiator shop could do a flow test on a rad but It seems most have gone away with the dinosaur. At city speeds there is enough flow to cool the coolant through the unplugged tubes but at highway speeds and higher coolant flow rates there is not enough area to cool through the unplugged tubes. On top of it all those radiators are too small to begin with.
With aluminum radiators this is less of a problem because heat transfer in much higher.The only thing that controls the fuel level in a carburetor is the float and needle and seat. The problem should be in that area. Check to make sure the float does not have fuel inside. Remove it and shake it beside your ear. You should be able to hear and feel if there is fuel inside. That would make the float heavier and not close the needle tight against the seat. The float level needs to be adjusted properly also.
In rare instances I have seen fuel pump diaphragms swell and cause higher than normal fuel pressure that overcomes the capability of the needle to shut the fuel off. A fuel pressure gauge would verify that.If my memory serves me I believe that the engine uses one pickup for starting and the other is for run. If the old one has both connected I would try to find the correct one to avoid possible problems. Why are you replacing it anyway?
No reverse is a common complaint with those transmissions. Sounds like a worn/cut lip seal or worn parts. Sometimes a snap ring inside breaks but reverse is gone completely in that event. Time for an overhaul or replacement. That said be sure the fluid level is full with a hot engine parked on a level surface..
Over the years I have seen situations such as yours and I have discovered that if you can stick it out long enough those guys will eventually hang themselves.
I have done several of those bearings and you made it look easy until it came to pressing the bearing out. Personally, I hate replacing them on those trucks. It seams it’s always a battle. I have never seen one that hard to press out however. As others have mentioned you should never press on the inner bearing race as it can damage the roller or ball bearings inside. I always torque the axle nut so it applies the correct preload on the bearing. I guess everyone has their own way. You know when you have done a days work after one of those.
Nice job anyway, Eric