Forum Replies Created
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Someone has a video on removing & replacing frozen bleeder valves ?
Might do a Google search ?
Best of luck on the transmission . If you had that many cuttings drain out , I would not keep expectations too high .
God bless
WyrMildly uneven pad wear . Were me , I would lube the places where the pads move against metal , after I removed rust & crud .
Then I would re-use the old calipers . Flush , then bleed as necessary .
I would again assess the wear pattern next time I replaced pads . Replacing pads is no big deal . First time I did pads was on a 1969 Ford Galaxy 500 . About mid 1970’s .
Replacing brake shoes long before that . Disk brakes usually are easier than drum brakes .
God bless
WyrIf the head of the screw is still in good enough shape , consider one of these ;
Otherwise , if it was my own car , I would drill the heads out , remove the rotors , then remove the remainder of the ” shaft ” of the screw . By one of several methods .
Always figured they were not needed . the wheel / lug nuts will hold the rotors securely .
God bless
WyrHaving trouble getting brake rotors loose from the hub ? Have seen mechanics in videos bouncing the ” face ” of then ( between the lug bolts ) with an air hammer .
Carefully squirt with you favorite penetrating oil . VERY carefully apply heat . Squirt with more oil . The heat seems to draw the oil in .
If the rotors are to be replaced any way , try hitting the ” rim ” from the opposite side . Again , with an air hammer if you have one .
You are 100% correct . Labor costs will eat you alive . I used to complain about the high cost of parts . Sometimes you can save decent money by ordering on line . But , in the long run , you pay what you have to pay or you walk .
God bless
WyrSounds like you are on the right track with your transmission .
Unfortunately , I do knot know of any ” modern ” transmissions that have a drain plug in the torque converter . So , , all in all , you are not able to drain but 40% – 60% of the old , dirty fluid .
Harbor freight , that is another point folks will argue about endlessly . You have to be aware the merchandise there is cheap Chinese and Indian imports . Probably other countries or origins , too .
You need to be able to take a fair look at what you are buying & how you will be using it . I am not a professional auto mechanic . I am a senior citizen . Any tool I buy may break or get lost , but probably will not be used enough to wear out .
Often I come across a specialty tool I need on a vehicle , or even working on something at the house . I may only use it once . If it last that one occasion , I am good . And often at a price 1/3 – 1/2 the price of a ” higher quality ” tool . It may be a price difference that is the deciding factor , as to whether I buy the specialty tool , or try to ” get by ” without it .
Add that to the fact have a fair variety of Craftsman brand ( back when they were made in the USA and had a lifetime warranty ) S. A. E. sized tools , from my younger days . Not so much in metric sizes .
Add that to the fact , some Harbor Freight tool quality seems to have improved a fair amount over the last 10 – 15 years .
I will buy the HF sets of metric & SAE open end wrenches ,box end wrenches and combination wrenches on sale for around $ 10 . The are made in India and seem to be just fine for me . I have a set of each metric & SAE in the truck and at home . If I loose a few , no big cost to replace them .
I have 1/2″ & 3/8″ torque wrenches for $ 10 – 15 each . 18″ & 24 ” break over bars , 1/2″ for about the same price .
But , you are right , some of the HF merchandise is hardly worth taking home . Hopefully , I can recognize that and decide accordingly .
But for a young person that plans to continue to do DIY on the auto & around the house , I do not want to discourage them from buying ” quality ” tooling .
Best of luck with the transmission ! 🙂
God bless
WyrYes . The filter in our little Chevy Sonic automatic is internal , also . 🙁 At least you have a dip stick to check the fluid level .
I read that Hondas are picky about transmission fluid . I think I would do with out the Lucus Oil , the next time you drain & fill .
Do you have Harbor Freight stores in Canada ?
God bless
WyrHere are a bunch of articles about using a vacuum gauge to diagnose engine problems .
Does it have an EGR valve ?
God bless
WyrSorry , I am out of Ideas .
If it is the master cylinder , looks like they are $ 50 – $ 100 on RockAuto.com .
God bless
WyrDoes your Honda have a transmission filter that is user replaceable by dropping the pan ? Replace pan , with new gasket & refill with fluid ?
God bless
WyrIs the coil part of the distributor cap or a separate component ? Might check the coil .
Also , the ignition control module inside the distributor ?
Best of luck ! 🙂
God bless
WyrI apologize . It seems I am getting your thread mixed up with another .
Think you said you worked on the distributor ? Replaced the cap and rotor ?
Is it possible you got the wires wrong when you replaced the cap ? You said you are getting spark ? I am wondering if you are getting spark to the correct cylinder at the correct time ?
I do not know much about a Honda distributor . Is there anything out of the ordinary .
If you did not rotate the body of the distributor , would not think you changed the timing ?
God bless
WyrI apologize . It seems I am getting your thread mixed up with another .
Think you said you worked on the distributor ? Replaced the cap and rotor ?
Is it possible you got the wires wrong when you replaced the cap ? You said you are getting spark ? I am wondering if you are getting spark to the correct cylinder at the correct time ?
I do not know much about a Honda distributor . Is there anything out of the ordinary .
If you did not rotate the body of the distributor , would not think you changed the timing ?
God bless
WyrSounds good on the injectors , like they are getting power . If you saw fuel in the cylinders , was it all the cylinders ?
Compression gauge
Vacuum gauge
https://www.google.com/search?q=automotive++vacuum+gauge&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=ubuntu&channel=fs
Although , you said it ran well after you got it started , I would guess compression is acceptable .
Please refresh my memory . You prime it , it starts , you go on an errand , say the grocery store . Far enough to get it warmed up . You go inside , buy your groceries , does it start OK when you come back out to the car ?
Does it have a temperature sensor to sample the air , going into the throttle body ? Maybe in the rubber hose / duct from the air filter box to the throttle body .
RockAuto.com shows a manifold pressure sensor , Have you checked it ?
One more shot in the dark . Throttle position sensor ?
Best of luck . 🙂
God bless
Wyr