[Wyr Twister]

I have heard of using Fluid Film ( mostly lanolin ? ) and several commercial products .

Luckily , rust is not a major problem in our climate .

Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

If you are a conservative driver , forget about monkeying with the cam time and other ” tunes ” . We have a 2006 Lacrosse 3.8l and it does not need any more power .

Many / most cars get better gas mileage on 100% unleaded , when compared to E10 gas .

Yes , change the tranny fluid & filter .

If it is not burning oil , I would stick with 5W-30 . Mobil 1 is fine . Check / change the engine air filter & cabin air filter .

Try to change the brake fluid & power steering fluid .

But here is a very important point I did not know until we bought our 3.8l & I ran across it on the internet .

The 3.8l has 2 plastic coolant elbows in the circuit going to the heater core . If / when these crack / break , you loose coolant . If they outright break , maybe disastrously .

Replace them with the metal elbows .

https://www.google.com/search?q=buick+3.8l+coolant+elbow&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-ab

Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

It was warmer yesterday . Wonder if the problem is , at least , in part , temperature related ?

Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

In general , you should have either a coolant temp sensor or possibility a block temp sensor . The ” computer monitors this temp and commands a relay to turn the electric fan on , when appropriate .

You might check out temp sensor .

But , as has been suggested , I would check the thermostat .

I have owned cars with 2 electric fans , that were bought on at different times , depending on the circumstances .

Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

Received an email from my cousin . He said he charged the batteries for 4 hours & got it to start . Let it run for 5 minutes , shut it off & it restarted .

His brother recommended a local mechanic & the mechanic told him it sounded like the fuel pressure regulator or pressure sensor .

My cousin is going to try to drive the truck to the mechanic , tomorrow . With his brother following , in case it quits again .

So , we will see what we will see . Wish him luck .
_________________________
Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

Saturday , I got out the turkey baster & evacuated the brake fluid from the 2 compartments of the master cylinder reservoir . Wiped out the dark sediment from the 2 compartments & refilled them with fresh / new brake fluid .
Drove it off and on over the weekend & it showed some improvement . Last couple of times I drove it , the ABS lite did not come on .
Tried the diagnosis shown in the video , but by then the ABS lite was not on , and I suppose the codes are erased when you turn off the ignition .

Thanks , 🙂
Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

Is the crankshaft sensor and / or tone ring associated with the flywheel ?
Did you mistakenly unplug or damage any wiring ? Or vacuum hoses / devices ?

Best of luck , 🙂
Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

Thanks for the report back and congrats on the repair ! 🙂

Try sticking a cloths dryer ” cling free ” sheet through a belt look as a mosquito repellent .

Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

Rockauto.com lists radiators for $ 42 – $ 78 + freight .

I would replace the radiator ASAP + new coolant .

You mess around and overheat the engine and that amount will look like chicken feed compared to what the engine repair will coast . And you will still have to replace the radiator , to boot !

Best of luck . 🙂
Wyr
God bless

PS Also check all the hoses & maybe replace the thermostat too . Preventative maintenance .

[Wyr Twister]

Running RWD only , I would take a tire / wheel off the front & put it where the defective tire was & put the spare on the front .

Now , replace the defective tire ASAP & take the spare off the ground . Even if that closes down your beer / recration budget .

Best of Luck . 🙂
Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

I would think you need to diagnose if the fault is in the 12 VDC power circuit or the control circuit .

http://www.rockauto.com/info/333/336-1934A_Alternate1__ra_p.jpg

Looks like the starter solenoid that switches the 12 VDC power is mase on the starter .

See if you have a large / fat positive cable from the battery to the top terminal of the solenoid & a small wire going to the ” side terminal ” . That would be the ” control wire ” that causes the solenoid to ” pull in ” , powering the starter motor .

This is easiest to diagnose when the starter is not working . With a helper turning the key to ” start ” see if you are getting 12 VDC to the control wire / terminal . Also 12 VDC on the power cable / terminal .

You may also need to do a visual inspection on both wires , from the starter . All the way to the battery on the power wire & as far as you can on the control wire .

I think you said the headlights work , when you have a no start ? That is good info to know . It tells you the battery & battery cable clamps most likely are OK .

Report back with what you find out .

Best of luck . 🙂
Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

New switch will not screw into the reman pump ? Will the original switch screw in ?
This is not left handed threads , is it ?

Best of luck . 🙂
Wyr
God bless

[Wyr Twister]

No clue what caused it , I think I expressed my guesses earlier .

Just hope it runs for you .

God bless
Wyr

[Wyr Twister]

Are you talking about Cadweld or BURNDYWeld ?

We use them for Telco work , where specified . Always considered them to be a pain .

TYou are probably out of luck for automotive .

Best of luck .

God bless
Wyr

[Wyr Twister]

Congrats !

Glad you are back on the road . 🙂

And thanks for the update .

God bless
Wyr

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