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I have changed tranny filters in the past . I own a 91 Caprice I need to change the fluid and filter on it . Just have not gotten around to it .
Not sure about doing it on a company truck .
Is the camber and caster on a 2008 Silverado readily adjustable ? My understanding is some vehicles are just made that way and are suppose to be right . With no provision for ready adjustment ? I at least figure toe in should be adjustable ?
No , tires have not been rotated lately . Probably should be .
Thanks ,
God bless
WyrThank you .
No noise at idle . Noise is not dependent on transmission gear change .
Do not remember hearing the noise in reverse . Probably not moving fast enough . The faster I go , the louder it gets .
God bless
WyrMy understanding is the alternator should be putting out 13.8 VDC . And that is the voltage that should show at the battery , with the engine running ? Is this correct ?
Check the condition of all the grounds .
Check both battery cables , at both ends .
Check the condition where each batter clamp is terminated to its respective wire / cable . Look for corrosion that may have worked its way under the plastic cable insulation and deteriorated the wire . Up inside the insulation , where it is not visible .
Does the alternator have the voltage regulator inside the alternator or external to the alternator ?
God bless
WyrOn rusted nuts and bolts , I start off with penetrating oil . Used to use WD-40 . Have switched to P B Blaster with good luck .
If that does not work & you have to use heat , try spraying some more oil on the HOT fastener . Seems like the heat / cool cycle helps the oil soak in . Be ware of fires ! 🙁
If you are going to install new fasteners , and you have a cutting torch , just cut the fasteners off . Much faster .
God bless
WyrThinking about this , there may be a lot of places / regions / spots on the belt that you may not be able to get to to split / cut it . But , with the transmission in neutral , you could use the crankshaft bolt & a ratchet to turn the engine over . This will bring those difficult areas of the belt , to a place where you can get to it to cut / split .
Only problem I see with this is you end up replacing the belt , only . My understanding is it is recommended that all the tensioner , idler pulleys and water pump ( if driven by the cam belt ) be replaced , also .
God bless
WyrAre the bleeder screws stainless steel ? Would that help ?
It has been at least a year or two since I have broken one . Rear drum brakes . I replaced the wheel cylinder .
That said , I have found P B Blaster to be pretty good to help prevent this . But not always .
God bless
WyrI hope you will ba a little more clear how all the A/C – heater parts work when you get your books . The photos and drawings help me a lot .
You have a heater coil and an A/C evaporator coil . When running heat , the evaporator coil does not do much of anything . The heater coil is the star of the show .
You probably have a vacuum , electric or cable operated valve that can shut coolant flow off , when heat is not needed .
You should have blend doors that select outside air or recirculate inside air . Doors that send air up to defrost , out the vents or down to the floor . And combinations of those positions . Perhaps doors that change the amount of air through the heater coil and the evaporator coil .
All these doors are operated / moved by electric , vacuum or cable . All this is juggled by the knobs , dials or levers inside the climate control center .
God bless
WyrPS I looked up this system on Chilton on line & the blend door actuators appear to all be electric . Also , you have plastic air ducts that transport air to the different vents . You might check & see if any of them are loose .
Best I remember , brake shoes ” shift ” one way when the brakes are applied & the vehicle is moving forward . The ” shift ” the other way when brakes are applied & the vehicle is moving in reverse .
The latter seems to force the self adjuster to work , better .
I have used the back up and hit the brakes , method , many times .
God bless
WyrSee if you can find any books on the car .
I used to buy a Chilton or Haynes ( sometimes both ) book on a car I owned & was going to have to maintain .
Seems like paper books are going out of fashion ?
See if the passenger side has seperate blend door s and if the accumulators are vacuum or electric ? Do you have seperate controls for the driver side and the passenger side ?
God bless
WyrYou disconnected the wire / connector from the TPS ? That is when the backfiring started ? Then put a new TPS on the engine .
God bless
Wyr[quote=”fremontgrandpa1961″ post=151718]Yes. It has some type of sensor switch in the line. I had to unplug it and then put it in the new line.[/quote]
Might check that sensor , the connector and the wiring ?
Did you get all the air out of the system ? Turn the steering wheel lock to lock ( with the engine running ) until it stops making strange noises ?
Visually inspect everything else .
Re-check the fluid level .
God bless
WyrIs there a pressure switch on the power steering system ? Did it get messed with while you were working ?
God bless
Wyr