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i just have 2 simple questions for ye’
1) what is your overall opinion of a 2003 crown vic CVPI? I got one with 80k miles on it and it runs great. Any known problems that i should be aware of..?
2) would you recommend for or against specializing in ford vehicles as a viable career move coming right out of auto tech school?
i just have 2 simple questions for ye’
1) what is your overall opinion of a 2003 crown vic CVPI? I got one with 80k miles on it and it runs great. Any known problems that i should be aware of..?
2) would you recommend for or against specializing in ford vehicles as a viable career move coming right out of auto tech school?
one time i poured just like an ounce of windshield wiper fluid into my p/s system by mistake. for my own learning purposes, i let it go just to see how bad thing would get. the next day, my p/s pump was whining so bad heads would turn every time i pulled into a public place. the fluid was pink and bubbly; it looked like as pepto milk shake. i flushed the system once and had some improvement. a second flush of the p/s system solved the problem. i ended up spending like $60 in p/s fluid when it was all said and done. :blink:
one time i poured just like an ounce of windshield wiper fluid into my p/s system by mistake. for my own learning purposes, i let it go just to see how bad thing would get. the next day, my p/s pump was whining so bad heads would turn every time i pulled into a public place. the fluid was pink and bubbly; it looked like as pepto milk shake. i flushed the system once and had some improvement. a second flush of the p/s system solved the problem. i ended up spending like $60 in p/s fluid when it was all said and done. :blink:
here is a progressive list of things you can try, in ascending order from ‘least devastating’ to ‘total transmission failure’
1) just drop the pan and change the filter. replace the amount of fluid lost in this service. this is the least invasive and is the most transmission friendly.
2) if you have a transmission cooler, it may be possible to take of a return line and while the engine is running, drain the existing system oil at the same time you fill it up with new fluid. stop the process once you start seeing new fluid drain into the bucket.
3) if you feel you are good with the transmission gods, and are willing to roll the dice, try a professional transmission system back-flush. However, don’t yell at me when you lose 3rd gear 2 weeks later.
here is a progressive list of things you can try, in ascending order from ‘least devastating’ to ‘total transmission failure’
1) just drop the pan and change the filter. replace the amount of fluid lost in this service. this is the least invasive and is the most transmission friendly.
2) if you have a transmission cooler, it may be possible to take of a return line and while the engine is running, drain the existing system oil at the same time you fill it up with new fluid. stop the process once you start seeing new fluid drain into the bucket.
3) if you feel you are good with the transmission gods, and are willing to roll the dice, try a professional transmission system back-flush. However, don’t yell at me when you lose 3rd gear 2 weeks later.
the fluid is over flowing because there is air in the system. when the pump is running, it turns your fluid into a frothy milk shake which bring all the boys to the yard. damn right mine’s better than yours. I can teach you, but I have to charge.
The P/S bleeding process is comprehensive, and could take hours to perform. You can’t just do it once or twice and call it good.
But here is the kicker, if I had to guess, I would bet there is a small leak where you performed your p/s service… perhaps at your o-ring… and, I would guess that there is a good chance that the o-ring is close to, but not the exact size that is required. Why do I say this? This same scenario just happened in my school shop last weekend. So, we spent hours and hours bleeding the p/s system, but in actuality every time we bled the system, we just introduced more air into the fluid every time we turned the wheel stop to stop. We only found the source of the problem when our instructor traced the lines with a light and found fluid on one of the compression fittings where a student changed out the p/s pump. After the leak was repaired with the proper o-ring, we bled the system maybe 4 times and there was no air at all. 😉
the fluid is over flowing because there is air in the system. when the pump is running, it turns your fluid into a frothy milk shake which bring all the boys to the yard. damn right mine’s better than yours. I can teach you, but I have to charge.
The P/S bleeding process is comprehensive, and could take hours to perform. You can’t just do it once or twice and call it good.
But here is the kicker, if I had to guess, I would bet there is a small leak where you performed your p/s service… perhaps at your o-ring… and, I would guess that there is a good chance that the o-ring is close to, but not the exact size that is required. Why do I say this? This same scenario just happened in my school shop last weekend. So, we spent hours and hours bleeding the p/s system, but in actuality every time we bled the system, we just introduced more air into the fluid every time we turned the wheel stop to stop. We only found the source of the problem when our instructor traced the lines with a light and found fluid on one of the compression fittings where a student changed out the p/s pump. After the leak was repaired with the proper o-ring, we bled the system maybe 4 times and there was no air at all. 😉