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Not having any special insight on your peticular vehicle, I can just offer you some of advice just based on control arm busings in general:
Q: is this a cylinder type, or hockey puck type control arm bushing?
If it is the cylinder type and it can be changed it will have to be pressed out and the new one pressed in. A determination should be made to ensure there is no directional bias for the busing. An inspection of the busing can be made to determine if it is one that has a metal outter sleeve if it is open on one end or both ends. This will determine which way it can be pressed in and out. If the metal sleeve (if it has one) is flared on both ends, the bushing cannot be replaced and a new control arm will have to be installed.
More than likely, the busing will be replaceable in both directions as this is the most common type. The control arm will have to be removed from the vehicle. Use a ball-joint press (available for rent at autozone for a $100 deposit which you get back upon the tools return) with the adapters to press out the bushing. Clean and lubricate the control arm where the busing came out. *Use silicone spray on rubber components for lubrication (*This does not include WD-40 or PB Blaster) At this point bushing installation is just the reverse process of removal; simply select the appropriate adapters and press in the new bushing. Having an impact will pay off and make the job relatively easy.
With a hockey puck type bushing, it is possible to replace the bushing with the control arm still on the vehicle. It might be possible to pull out the lower control arm and wedge a block of wood between the arm and the frame to keep it out where you can easily access the bushing. The best tool to use in this case would be an air hammer. Use a blunt end attachment and hammer the bushing until it just falls out. Clean and lubricate the control arm in preperation for the new bushing. Bushing installation is just the reverse process; use and air hammer with a blunt attachment to press the bushing back into place.
i doubt that your vintage of vehicle will have on board diagnostics or computer controlled transmission. any diagnostics performed would have to be rudimentary. from what you describe the problem is with the torque converter clutch (TCC). I am not sure what inputs your vehicle accepts in order to determine when to apply the clutch, but here is one possibility to consider:
Turbine speed sensor (TSS)
This may also be known as an input speed sensor (ISS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the TCU to determine the current rotational speed of the input shaft or torque converter. The TCU uses the input shaft speed to determine slippage across the torque converter and potentially to determine the rate of slippage across the bands and clutches. This information is vital to regulate the application of the torque converter lock-up clutch smoothly and effectively.
if your vehicle was 1996 or newer, the diagnostic procedure would be much more exact and would include using a techII scanner (or better) and commanding the computer to lock the TCC. one could also test drive the vehicle and view real-time data on what is actually happening with your transission.
one diagnostic test you can perform though, would be to locate and disconnect the electrical connection for the TCC solenoid, which would most likely be located on the front of the transmission and see if this eliminates the problem. if the problem is resolved, then the problem is the clutch. It might pay off to do your homework; google what specific transmission your vehicle has, then look for an exploded view of the transmission. You’ll know exactly where to find your TCC solenoid.
what you describe is a common and known problem with TCC’s:
- Symptom: car shudders around 35-40mph (second gear) as a general rule for most vehicles.
- Cause: bad torque converter clutch
- Solution: replace the torque converter
Tips:
you can get away with just leaving the TCC solenoid unplugged and avoid having to do a time consuming repair; however, expect a 10% reduction in fuel economy.if possible, review the alldata recommended procedure for torque converter remove & replace. this will give you an overall idea of what you’re getting into. also, see if there are any available youtube videos for your vehicle. you can learn a lot from someone else’s struggle.
you must ensure you hear a ‘double clunk’ when installing your torque converter; it has to seat once on the front oil pump splined shaft and again for the transmission input shaft. Here is one video that demonstrates this:
i doubt that your vintage of vehicle will have on board diagnostics or computer controlled transmission. any diagnostics performed would have to be rudimentary. from what you describe the problem is with the torque converter clutch (TCC). I am not sure what inputs your vehicle accepts in order to determine when to apply the clutch, but here is one possibility to consider:
Turbine speed sensor (TSS)
This may also be known as an input speed sensor (ISS). This sensor sends a varying frequency signal to the TCU to determine the current rotational speed of the input shaft or torque converter. The TCU uses the input shaft speed to determine slippage across the torque converter and potentially to determine the rate of slippage across the bands and clutches. This information is vital to regulate the application of the torque converter lock-up clutch smoothly and effectively.
if your vehicle was 1996 or newer, the diagnostic procedure would be much more exact and would include using a techII scanner (or better) and commanding the computer to lock the TCC. one could also test drive the vehicle and view real-time data on what is actually happening with your transission.
one diagnostic test you can perform though, would be to locate and disconnect the electrical connection for the TCC solenoid, which would most likely be located on the front of the transmission and see if this eliminates the problem. if the problem is resolved, then the problem is the clutch. It might pay off to do your homework; google what specific transmission your vehicle has, then look for an exploded view of the transmission. You’ll know exactly where to find your TCC solenoid.
what you describe is a common and known problem with TCC’s:
- Symptom: car shudders around 35-40mph (second gear) as a general rule for most vehicles.
- Cause: bad torque converter clutch
- Solution: replace the torque converter
Tips:
you can get away with just leaving the TCC solenoid unplugged and avoid having to do a time consuming repair; however, expect a 10% reduction in fuel economy.if possible, review the alldata recommended procedure for torque converter remove & replace. this will give you an overall idea of what you’re getting into. also, see if there are any available youtube videos for your vehicle. you can learn a lot from someone else’s struggle.
you must ensure you hear a ‘double clunk’ when installing your torque converter; it has to seat once on the front oil pump splined shaft and again for the transmission input shaft. Here is one video that demonstrates this:
the junk yard might have an engine for your jeep. it might pay off to see what they got to offer. you can pressure test the engine right there in the yard and see if it’s any good. if you find one that wasn’t in a front end collision then you are good to go.
the junk yard might have an engine for your jeep. it might pay off to see what they got to offer. you can pressure test the engine right there in the yard and see if it’s any good. if you find one that wasn’t in a front end collision then you are good to go.
i actually work at autozone, so i will offer a couple of pieces of advice:
1) make friends with one of the employees. then, get their number. then, offer them some cash if they buy the engine for you. they can buy the engine for 20% off, so even after the payoff you’ll still be saving money. go to a ‘red shirt’ employee who looks like they are in desperate need of cash. a good judge of character will pay off.
2) if you live let’s say, within’ a couple hundred miles of michigan, i’d get the engine for you and save you the 20% with my employee discount.
all of this might sound shiesty, but knowing how to work the system can pay off.
i actually work at autozone, so i will offer a couple of pieces of advice:
1) make friends with one of the employees. then, get their number. then, offer them some cash if they buy the engine for you. they can buy the engine for 20% off, so even after the payoff you’ll still be saving money. go to a ‘red shirt’ employee who looks like they are in desperate need of cash. a good judge of character will pay off.
2) if you live let’s say, within’ a couple hundred miles of michigan, i’d get the engine for you and save you the 20% with my employee discount.
all of this might sound shiesty, but knowing how to work the system can pay off.
avoiding the tool truck is the best advice i have ever got from this forum. i was on the edge of going about $7k deep into snap-on because it is a “school program” and we get 50% off their tools… but did some soul searching and put about $1k into craftsman and I have more tools than i can shake a stick at. There are some students who are in $$$ with snap-on and it will take them years to pay on their tools whereas all own all mine outright.
avoiding the tool truck is the best advice i have ever got from this forum. i was on the edge of going about $7k deep into snap-on because it is a “school program” and we get 50% off their tools… but did some soul searching and put about $1k into craftsman and I have more tools than i can shake a stick at. There are some students who are in $$$ with snap-on and it will take them years to pay on their tools whereas all own all mine outright.
i spent days thinkin’ about if i should run up a huge bill with the snap on guy… on the 4th day, I went straight to sears and bough a ton of tools for a low price. 🙂
i spent days thinkin’ about if i should run up a huge bill with the snap on guy… on the 4th day, I went straight to sears and bough a ton of tools for a low price. 🙂
there seems to be way too many variables to consider with a self-driving vehicle. pot holes, deer, weather, hydroplaning, ice, blown tire, low fuel level, dtc trouble codes (check engine lights), drivability and engine problems, construction zones, emergency response vehicles and other vehicular accidents being among the top of things to consider. it would take the effort of the world’s top computer scientists to tackle these tough issues. :S
i believe the most viable solution would be a compromise that would result in a “mostly drive’s itself” vehicle, that would be nothing more than an extension of your cruise control in that it can drive itself up to a point of when driver interaction is required. Even with aircraft, ‘autopilot’ is by no means a way of turning total control over to a computer; human intervention is required especially during the most crucial phases of flight. I believe the same theorem will be true when it comes to self-driving vehicles; human intervention should be considered when it comes to the most crucial phases of driving.
there seems to be way too many variables to consider with a self-driving vehicle. pot holes, deer, weather, hydroplaning, ice, blown tire, low fuel level, dtc trouble codes (check engine lights), drivability and engine problems, construction zones, emergency response vehicles and other vehicular accidents being among the top of things to consider. it would take the effort of the world’s top computer scientists to tackle these tough issues. :S
i believe the most viable solution would be a compromise that would result in a “mostly drive’s itself” vehicle, that would be nothing more than an extension of your cruise control in that it can drive itself up to a point of when driver interaction is required. Even with aircraft, ‘autopilot’ is by no means a way of turning total control over to a computer; human intervention is required especially during the most crucial phases of flight. I believe the same theorem will be true when it comes to self-driving vehicles; human intervention should be considered when it comes to the most crucial phases of driving.
wow… i actually tried to get an old beat up barracuda from someone last winter..!!! it was in bad shape and I offered a good chunk of change to get it… but that man wouldn’t budge…! good luck with the barracuda! send pics..!!! 🙂