[dave]

It is a relatively low psi: 25 to 30 lbs. You might experience some air leakage even at this psi, so I wouldn’t go above 30 lbs.

[dave]

It is a relatively low psi: 25 to 30 lbs. You might experience some air leakage even at this psi, so I wouldn’t go above 30 lbs.

[dave]

ground from the ecm is 11.94

:ohmy: :ohmy: :ohmy:

anyone see a problem here…

[dave]

ground from the ecm is 11.94

:ohmy: :ohmy: :ohmy:

anyone see a problem here…

[dave]

ground from the ecm is 11.94

:ohmy: :ohmy: :ohmy:

[dave]

ground from the ecm is 11.94

:ohmy: :ohmy: :ohmy:

[dave]

by all means, re-use the old steels. the steels rarely ever go bad… only if they are tarnished.

good luck on the rebuild…. sounds like fun. 🙂

[dave]

by all means, re-use the old steels. the steels rarely ever go bad… only if they are tarnished.

good luck on the rebuild…. sounds like fun. 🙂

[dave]

I would assume that if there was a short in the sending unit circuit, your gauge would indicate either full or empty. Therefore, I am leaning towards your sending unit being stuck at 1/2.

One test you could perform would be to disconnect the connector to the sending unit and jump the signal wire to ground and see if you get full scale deflection on your gas gauge. If you get full scale deflection, then you can assume that your circuit is ok and that the sending unit must be at fault.

Here is Señor Car guy doing some basic sending unit diagnostics:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBjkw8yl1vQ[/video]

[dave]

I would assume that if there was a short in the sending unit circuit, your gauge would indicate either full or empty. Therefore, I am leaning towards your sending unit being stuck at 1/2.

One test you could perform would be to disconnect the connector to the sending unit and jump the signal wire to ground and see if you get full scale deflection on your gas gauge. If you get full scale deflection, then you can assume that your circuit is ok and that the sending unit must be at fault.

Here is Señor Car guy doing some basic sending unit diagnostics:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBjkw8yl1vQ[/video]

[dave]

I might be wrong, but it sounds like the real problem could be with your differential. Diagnosis would include pulling the differential and measuring backlash tolerances. Or, the side bearing pre-loads on the differential could be incorrect allowing play in the cv axles.

Stuff like this is hard to guess without actually looking at the vehicle.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXGRMqHJJ4U[/video]

The main issue you might want to consider is “dealer, or no dealer.” banana:

[dave]

I might be wrong, but it sounds like the real problem could be with your differential. Diagnosis would include pulling the differential and measuring backlash tolerances. Or, the side bearing pre-loads on the differential could be incorrect allowing play in the cv axles.

Stuff like this is hard to guess without actually looking at the vehicle.

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXGRMqHJJ4U[/video]

The main issue you might want to consider is “dealer, or no dealer.” banana:

[dave]

one day it wanted to not start without cranking forever.

I <3 no crank/no starts...

First thing I always do (of course after checking the battery etc.) is go right to the starter and see if it is getting what it needs. Jump the B/M terminals and see if you can 'force' the starter to engage. If nothing, test for voltage at the B terminal. Then take a big socket wrench and try to manually turn the engine over. If it is seized up, then you probably have a spun bearing or other mechanical problem.

If starter engages, then the problem is in the ignition circuit. Getting an electrical schematic for your starting circuit will be greatly beneficial. You will typically have devices such as solenoids, relays, neutral safety switches, alarm lock out (usually aftermarket gives a lot of problems) and the ignition cylinder itself you can test. Some starter circuits even have an inline fuse (but this is rare.)

I believe Mr. Carguy could also offer you a few tips that I have not covered:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrqkhZmDnHQ[/video]

[dave]

one day it wanted to not start without cranking forever.

I <3 no crank/no starts...

First thing I always do (of course after checking the battery etc.) is go right to the starter and see if it is getting what it needs. Jump the B/M terminals and see if you can 'force' the starter to engage. If nothing, test for voltage at the B terminal. Then take a big socket wrench and try to manually turn the engine over. If it is seized up, then you probably have a spun bearing or other mechanical problem.

If starter engages, then the problem is in the ignition circuit. Getting an electrical schematic for your starting circuit will be greatly beneficial. You will typically have devices such as solenoids, relays, neutral safety switches, alarm lock out (usually aftermarket gives a lot of problems) and the ignition cylinder itself you can test. Some starter circuits even have an inline fuse (but this is rare.)

I believe Mr. Carguy could also offer you a few tips that I have not covered:

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrqkhZmDnHQ[/video]

[dave]

I’ve always wondered about this also…. it’s probably most important and high liability system of your vehicle… yet it’s the most DIY performed service… I lose sleep at night thinking about my brake jobs and torquing all the lug nuts correctly. I would die if someone was hurt as a result of my work.

[Author]

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