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OK I think I know the tubes you are referring to. Not looking at the manual but they are small hard plastic tubes and should be easy to blow our with air and see if they are gummed up. Makes sense and am sure they have never been checked. Thanks
I understand but wouldn’t that fail smog? I think the only reason for that fitting on the valve cover with a tube going to the air cleaner is to catch any blow by from the valves and stems. I do not know of any other tube that is going to the crankcase other than the tube for the dip stick. I can look at the manual and see more but am pretty sure. This is a simple in-line 6.
It doesn’t have a normal pvc valve. It just has a fitting on top of the valve cover (straight 6) that goes over to the air cleaner. What is strange is I would think a smog check would show it was burning oil but it shows all levels are great. I just figure the rings are worn with as many miles as it has. Still has plenty of power.
From the videos I have seen it is pretty easy. It does require new springs in the back but not hard todo from what I can see in the monroe video on youtube. I’ve done lots of auto work so the mechanical task is not an issue. Just wondering if anyone had done the change over and what they thought about the results. Fixing the air system is pretty expensive for the parts. If not towing anything i do not feel it is needed.
This is an old school jeep where you turn on and off the key and then count the check engine light flashes. The first code is a 12 which has something to do with the PCM and battery 50 times….. and the other code was a 21 which is something to do with the O2 sensor. I opened another question just based on this car. The other Van seems now to be OK….without doing anything. That is what makes me bat shit crazy is that it comes and goes.
I finally got it to stop by just really tightening the belts on the P/S pump…..must be that it is an old pump and has a lot of torque on it.
Thanks for all the ideas
I see that but this engine does not have that. The harmonic balancer is first from the front of the engine and then a another pulley that contains two v-belts and then another pulley in front of that for another v-belt. This motor is before they went with a single belt system…old school v-belts all over the place…5 all total. Still maybe the problem but will find out if using a conditioner works or if removing single belts finds the problem. It still could be the balancer but sort of not thinking it is since when I reach up and grab it nothing is loose. But then again at high rpm it might be slipping on the rubber ring….that could be scary.
I see that but this engine does not have that. The harmonic balancer is first from the front of the engine and then a another pulley that contains two v-belts and then another pulley in front of that for another v-belt. This motor is before they went with a single belt system…old school v-belts all over the place…5 all total. Still maybe the problem but will find out if using a conditioner works or if removing single belts finds the problem. It still could be the balancer but sort of not thinking it is since when I reach up and grab it nothing is loose. But then again at high rpm it might be slipping on the rubber ring….that could be scary.
When you say the crank pulley to slip do you mean it slips in reference to the crank shaft? Is there a way to repair that? Is it part of how the pulley mounts to the crank? I do not have the manual but I thought it was mounted with 4 bolts directly to the crank. I will try to find a parts pic for that area. I have used a wooden dowel held against my ear to find noises but with this noise at such a high rpm it could be difficult. It is so loud and terrible sounding.
I guess i need more info on how this rubber damper works. I have an engineering background so be technical.UPDATE: I went and looked up the part…I was thinking it was the pulley itself but as you know it is the heavy, wide piece that is closest to the timing chain cover and has the grooves used for timing. Apparently there is a rubber sleeve that goes between the heavy outer weight and the inner piece that fits over the crankshaft with a key. If it is slipping it might have to continue since getting to it might be a pain. I replace the water pump and all that is involved but getting to this will require removing the radiator to do it right.
if I leave it alone will it damage anything? is there any jerry rigged fix that might work in the mean time?
When you say the crank pulley to slip do you mean it slips in reference to the crank shaft? Is there a way to repair that? Is it part of how the pulley mounts to the crank? I do not have the manual but I thought it was mounted with 4 bolts directly to the crank. I will try to find a parts pic for that area. I have used a wooden dowel held against my ear to find noises but with this noise at such a high rpm it could be difficult. It is so loud and terrible sounding.
I guess i need more info on how this rubber damper works. I have an engineering background so be technical.UPDATE: I went and looked up the part…I was thinking it was the pulley itself but as you know it is the heavy, wide piece that is closest to the timing chain cover and has the grooves used for timing. Apparently there is a rubber sleeve that goes between the heavy outer weight and the inner piece that fits over the crankshaft with a key. If it is slipping it might have to continue since getting to it might be a pain. I replace the water pump and all that is involved but getting to this will require removing the radiator to do it right.
if I leave it alone will it damage anything? is there any jerry rigged fix that might work in the mean time?
This does not have an idler pulley….it is an old V8 360 that is old school with v belts and no tensioner or idler.
This does not have an idler pulley….it is an old V8 360 that is old school with v belts and no tensioner or idler.
On my jeep I replaced the stabilizer bushings and the wheel bearings are good plus new tires and I just checked the shock bushings. This jeep has suspension arms that go from the chassis to the axle in the rear and front. There are upper and lower arms. Visual inspection does not look like the rubber bushings on the ends being bad but it also does not allow me to look inside where the bolt goes through the bushing. Is there a procedure I could do to check if these are the banging noise? My thought was to put the car up on jacks under the axle and then use my hydraulic jack to try and move the suspension arm to see if it moves. It may only move a slight bit to make a banging noise and am afraid I may not see that movement. Is there a way to take all the pressure off these arms so i can just reach up and try wiggling them with my hand to feel if there is movement?
On my jeep I replaced the stabilizer bushings and the wheel bearings are good plus new tires and I just checked the shock bushings. This jeep has suspension arms that go from the chassis to the axle in the rear and front. There are upper and lower arms. Visual inspection does not look like the rubber bushings on the ends being bad but it also does not allow me to look inside where the bolt goes through the bushing. Is there a procedure I could do to check if these are the banging noise? My thought was to put the car up on jacks under the axle and then use my hydraulic jack to try and move the suspension arm to see if it moves. It may only move a slight bit to make a banging noise and am afraid I may not see that movement. Is there a way to take all the pressure off these arms so i can just reach up and try wiggling them with my hand to feel if there is movement?
OK update: Had the jeep smogged and it was amazing. With a complete tune up and new O2 sensor and the new cat it went from HC=161 to 1.0!!! everything was very low in the readings. That cat and O2 really made the difference as expected. This tells me the engine is fine and with oil consumption about 1 qt per 3000 miles it should be running a long time. Now to look at some suspension noises….it is a 21 yr old car so just like me some of the joints need fixing!! banana: