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[quote=”golver” post=127631]Thanks for the suggestions. I appreciated reading about your own experiences with this kind of problem. I got back under the vehicle yesterday and took a closer look at the AC and alternator pulleys. The alternator turned out to be the culprit. My son and I ran out to a wrecker to grab another alternator and tossed it in. Problem solved and cheaply done. Thanks again to all of you for taking the time to respond to my request for help. I love this site. My granddaughter now calls me the car doctor![/quote]
Awesome! So glad to hear you found the solution to your problem, and that we could all help you here. It’s stories like these that make me (and everyone else here) proud to do what we do. Nothing gives me more satisfaction than fixing a problem, besides knowing that it helped another person in need. 🙂
Was the belt replaced recently before this started happening? Wondering if the correct belt routing was used if so. Also, how is the tension on the belt?
also, make sure the AC compressor is turned off (and defrost is off too) when you’re doing your testing. Although the pulley will spin by hand with the belt off, the clutch may not be spinning when the compresser is engaging causing the belt to smoke due to it being seized.
I also seem to remember these engines having a particular problem with idler pullies and belts falling off in the rain. Although that’s a completely separate issue from what you have.
Judging from the wiring diagram you should have power at all times. One coming from the battery, and the other side is the power side of the relay, which is only switched by ground on the control side of the relay with the ignition switch.
I know you said that you changed the starter. But double checking the purple wire to the starter, would be the next thing I would suggest. If that is grounding out somewhere it’ll definitely cause the fuse to pop.
EDIT: I just realized that you said you pulled the starter relay, and it still blowing the fuse. If that’s true, then the purple wire is no longer part of the circuit, and should not be causing your problem.
Is it possible to swap out an identical relay to the starter relay position? Look for part numbers on the relay and find one that matches the starter relay numbers. If so, try swapping out something like the horn and the starter relay and see if it still blows the fuse. But I would think if the starter relay was stuck closed, the starter would never shut off as soon as you turn the key on. But it’s already blowing the fuse before that can happen regardless.
Please keep in mind as I said before electrical diagrams are not an area of expertise for me. I’m still waiting for someone else to chime in with some more ideas.
Hyundai sante fe with 40,000 miles. Last oil change was 28,000 miles ago..
The bottom filter was the initial filter.. the top one was the one that was pulled after changing the oil, letting it run, and then draining/pulling the filter again. We made the customer sign a waiver that engine failure was imminent if we proceeded with trying to get all of the sludge out. We made her come back every week for an oil change, since she refused to pay to drop the pan.. but even at that, i cannot imagine with the oil galleys looked like.. how it even had any oil pressure is beyond me, but I was told it eventually cleared up.
[quote=”DarkViggen” post=126399]’Wireless’ brakes 🙂
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Had a guy come in with his pads on backwards.. i dont even know how he managed it. the nubs on the pad shims had dug into the rotor about a 1/4″. The guy lived less than a mile away and brought his car to us for a free brake check because “something didnt sound right”. Then tried to play it off like he had not had his brakes done, when you could clearly see the friction side of the pad had not a mark on it… He later admitted to what he did.. That was a $200 mistake he regretted.
Oh, and the people who do their own rear brake jobs with screw-in pistons trying to use c-clamps to compress them.. had to replace quite a few of those.
[quote=”no_common_sense” post=126590]
I lifted this Hyundai Santa Fe just high enough to shake it on the lift to make sure it’s solid on the lift arms. I pushed down on the RF wheel and the strut fell out. The customer told me that this wouldn’t have happened if I would have just done the oil change with the vehicle on the ground. There is such a thing as being right and stupid at the same time.
[/quote]Reminds me one time; I had a Ford Focus that came in for a knocking noise in the right front going over bumps. The car was very obviously abused and not taken care of one day in it’s life. I pull it in and its groaning from the strut when turning, and thumping like a cinder block going downstairs..
I rack it up and start to lift it and as the tires come off the ground about a foot, the right front strut falls out of the strut tower and the tie-rod/axle and ball joint are the only thing holding the tire (also the brake hose just about snapped when it all popped down).
Long story short is, we tell the guy his strut mount bolts have broken off in the strut tower and that he is going to need both front quick struts (the l/f was not far behind). The guy gives my service writer a blank stare and looks at him and says ‘what can you do for me for $50?” My service manager steps back, and very bluntly states “i can call you a cab to take you home, that’s about it!”
This guy was all about leaving with the car in it’s current state. It would have taken one good bump in the road for the strut to collapse from what was left of the strut mount.. Some people truly scare me.. not only for themselves, but also the safety of others on the road.
I read about an issue like this once and it was a bad ground, unfortunately i cannot remember where it was.
You are instantly blowing “IGN A” Fuse (40Amp) correct? I’ll see what i can do about a wiring diagram and we can see what it powers and see where your short is that’s causing this fuse to blow instantly.
Here is a wiring diagram for that circuit:
Wiring diagrams are not my strong suit, but it looks like IGN A (which is blowing instantly) is power to the starter relay. The ignition switch looks to be leading to the control side of the relay, which is activated by ground.
The first thing i would try is pulling out the starter relay and then putting another fuse in and seeing if it blows.. that way we can take the relay out of the equation. Im sure so more experienced guys will chime in here shortly. But I believe this is a good start.
Nice! As an owner of a 2008 Corolla, i definitely appreciate this! Although i have access to Mitchell, Identifix, Alldata and countless other resources, i always preferred the dealer service manuals!
This is about the best I can do for you right now.. I cannot get it to save as an image while zooming it in to see clearly. Hope it helps somewhat.
I seem to remember having issues with the older 4.7s having trapped air pockets behind the plastic thermostat housing, as it is the lowest point in the system. I am not saying this is your case, but it very well may be.. I remember there being at least one bleed port on the top of the engine by the upper radiator hose as well. May want to give that a try first.
[URL=http://s159.photobucket.com/user/flippincgfighter/media/RedneckRepairKit.jpg.html][IMG]http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t131/flippincgfighter/RedneckRepairKit.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
This one isnt quite a ‘repair’ but i thought it should be included… At one time i wondered if it could be real, then after being a tech for awhile, i didnt think twice about it.. i’ve seen crazy things people have done to get cars ‘drivable’ ill see if i can find some more.
[quote=”Tomh” post=106921]Unfortunately, I think you are already looking in the right direction. You def need to address the leaking compressor, but I would carefully examine the remainder of the system for contamination from the compressor failing.[/quote]
that is definitely the plan. 🙂
Anyone else have any input on the spike of high side pressure i mentioned? Just want to confirm there could be a restriction on the high side of the system.. although i’ve always heard that you will see frost where a restriction is forming, which i have none of.
[quote=”Tomh” post=106921]Unfortunately, I think you are already looking in the right direction. You def need to address the leaking compressor, but I would carefully examine the remainder of the system for contamination from the compressor failing.[/quote]
that is definitely the plan. 🙂
Anyone else have any input on the spike of high side pressure i mentioned? Just want to confirm there could be a restriction on the high side of the system.. although i’ve always heard that you will see frost where a restriction is forming, which i have none of.
