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Which bushing are you seeing that is torn? Can you give us an exact location or a picture? Then i can look up some information and let you know what is needed to replace it.
With a car of that age, i think you are going to have more trouble with the exhaust bolts, especially if you live in a northern climate than you are going to have with the oil pan itself.
Be sure to mind the areas where it addresses the use of silicone and the location of bolts/studs when you remove them (i find taking a picture of the bottom of the pan before starting helps a lot. Other than that, thoroughly cleaning the pan and block mating surfaces is of utmost importance for a good seal.
Torque spec is 15-22 ft-lbs for all bolts.
Great! I’m glad to hear you were able to successfully fix your problem!
Wow, 190,000 miles.. only about 1/2 way thorough it’s life 😉 Mine is just shy of 40k. Im expecting a long life out of it.
Thanks for keeping us updated on your progress/fix! Makes me happy to hear.
Not at that price.. but its the same tool. Havent had a chance to use it yet, but im sure it will be better than the brake pad & c-clamp method i’ve been using for years.
My best guess without actually seeing it from what you described is that the starter’s bendix drive is going out.. Causing it to not extend the ring gear to the flywheel (when you get a spinning sound) and sticking in the engaged position (when you just hear a click.)
With that being said, a starter will solve your problem. If you were getting no power to the solenoid, you would have no starter operation what-so-ever.
If you need installation/removal instructions, let me know. There is a thread below on the board with the factory Toyota shop manuals for your car.
P.S. I own an ’08 Corolla, good to see another person on the board here with one.
Here is a video of my box when i first got it setup and was still loading tools into it.. It has a side cab and another set of 7 drawers on the side now though..Nothing too impressive compared to most of y’all, but it gets the job done!
Also, as im sure everyone will notice the brand.. Im really really impressed with the quality of a harbor freight box.. the 44″ + boxes really are of good quality for the price! I also forgot to show the blue craftsman box next to it.. i keep all my specialty tools in that one.. it was the box i used as my first 6 years as a tech. Just cant seem to put it out to pasture quite yet.
When i first started wrenching; i never used gloves.. not once. Even as a lube tech next to hot exhaust or doing tires..etc. With the job i had, time was everything and i never had the time to stop and put on a pair of gloves, just to have them break shortly after.
However, these days.. the company i work for actually supplies latex gloves for us. Because of that, I find myself using them most any time im doing something where im getting my hands dirty. I forget the brand, but they are right up there with diamond grip and very hard to break. After 10 years of wrenching i’ve found that i care a little more about what kind of nasty oils and grease are getting into my hands and with free durable gloves, i take advantage of them as much as possible. I also have a problem with my hands being very dry and when i stress them a lot it causes them to peel, and when i wear the gloves it seems to alleviate a lot of that issue as well.
It’s also nice because i can have a dirty engine or suspension job one minute and im doing interior work the next.. it’s nice to be able to toss the gloves off and be good to go without worrying about getting an interior dirty.
[quote=”airborne81″ post=128357]WOTStang,
The TPS is bolted to the side of the TB I hope it just that and nothing else. I know parts gets pricy. For the ABS I have checked the fluid and init is at full level. I try to stay up on my maintenance on my vic’s at home, like the way I do in the for the Military as a Supervisor.I thank you for responding, hope you can help me further with this issue. I try to go back to AutoZone or O’rielly’s to get it scanned again.[/quote]
Ahh, my apologies. I must be thinking of the 08+ F150s. Its been awhile since ive had an older one.
Keep us updated.
The P2106 is in regards to a faulty electronic throttle control system.. the fly-by-wire system Ford introduced in 2005 for most of their vehicles.
There is a diagnostic procedure involved for checking to see if it is the actual unit/motor/actuator/sensors.. or an electrical issue.. so im not going to tell you to replace the throttle body, as that is a terrible way to diagnose and i dont believe in throwing parts at vehicles without proper testing to rule out the cause. However, 9/10 times, it is the throttle body position sensor that is causing the issue, and the only way to replace them is with the whole throttle body as they are one unit. The motors are known to go out randomly as well.. but if that were the case you would have no throttle response at all.
However, the ABS/Brake light sounds like a separate issue in itself. First thing I would check is the brake fluid level. If it’s border-line low, it can cause those lights to come on and off due to a low fluid condition.
I’ll see if i can pull up some simple home-diagnostic procedures for you to try to determine exactly where your problem lies.
Pressure fittings are very crucial to torque ratings.. A lot of people think they need to be cranked down hard, thus breaking whatever sealing mechanism they use (o-ring, gasket, silicone..etc) and its basically the same thing as having it too loose. Thankfully oil filters do not follow this rule, or 90% of them would leak.. that is a pet peeve of mine (and any tech, im sure) i’ve run across insanely tight filters that have no reason to be..
To get back on track though.. I show the oil pressure sending unit torque spec as 15 ft/lbs.. not very much at all. As also stated before.. snug it, start it, check for leaks. then tighten as needed. Also i personally put a small amount on teflon tape on any threaded fastener that has fluid running through it for added insurance.
Have you checked thoroughly for vacuum leaks? They are a #1 common cause of lean codes. spraying throttle body cleaner around vacuum lines/intake/breather tube..etc is a cheap and easy way to check for them.. you’ll want to check to see if the engine speed changes suddenly when you spray around. Im assuming you have though, since you have already changed the intake gasket (which by the way is a very common problem for Corollas)
Else, If you can get a hold of a decent ODB 2 scan tool that displays live data, my next step would be observing the STFT and LTFT (short term / long term) fuel trim numbers to see exactly where they are sitting. and post them here. You obviously running lean, which is either too much air.. or not enough fuel. However without being able to observe fuel trims and oxygen sensor readings, and fuel pressure, there is no easy way to diagnose exactly what is causing your lean condition. Especially not seeing them in reaction to load/rpm in real time. Sorry i couldnt be of more help, but perhaps someone else can chime in with some easy ‘home-ready’ fixes that can be done to aid you.
If your making an hourly rate regardless of how much work you do, a lot of times the person training you will get paid for the work you do as compensation for being responsible for your training. But then again, this varies from company to company and dealership to dealership. So I cant say if he is correct in what he is doing or not.. It basically comes down to how you get paid (hourly/flat-rate) and if he is getting compensated a training pay or not and your own dealership’s policies.
A noise that prominent should be fairly easy to find. It’s clearly in the suspension/steering, but its one of those problems that could be 6 different things, but without looking at each independently, its going to be more difficult to chase down. First thing I would try is the ‘touch test’ have someone move the steering like that and put your hand on different parts and you should be able to ‘feel’ that noise in the loose component.
You mention that you have no wheel assembly play.. so that *should* tell me that you have good inner/outer tie-rods.. did you try lifting up on the bottom of wheel with a long pry bar as its a few inches off the ground to check for balljoint play? anything that has direct rotation to the steering can be causing that noise. Do you have any noises when your driving straight going over bumps? Or is it just on turns? When you replaced the struts, did you replace the whole strut? or just had new struts put on the old spring/bearing plate?
As Eric stated, check the steering shaft for binding/looseness. I can barely see it in the video, but it looks to be tight. Check the u-joint and make sure it cannot be moved up and down.
If it were me, I would check for the following:
● Worn/loose lower control arms / bushings (check for cracks in the rubber bushings where they contact the k-member)
● Worn strut mount bearing plate (not as likely, especially with new struts – if they were replaced with them – but can cause a clunk on left/right turns.. but you should also be hearing a sound going over bumps on a straight road if that were the bad part.)
● Worn lower ball joints (do the test i mentioned above by jacking up the car a few inches off the ground and stick a long bar under the tire and see if there is any play in the lower balljoint as you do this.)
● Worn rack & pinion (not as easy to diagnose and i’ve personally never saw a worn pinion or rack.. but im sure it could happen.)
● Worn Rack & pinion bushings (or loose mounting bolts) (again, everything looks to be tight from the video)
● Have a helper hold each front tire and another person inside turn the wheel slightly and check for any looseness there.. that will check everything in the steering system from the front wheel to the steering wheel.. there should be no looseness at all, and no noise.
● Check to make sure that the bushings on the sway bar end links are tight and not deteriorated (they looked to be good on the video from what i could see.)
● Also another quick test you could do.. disconnect both tie-rod ends from the knuckles and do the same test and see if the noise changes any. If it is still there, it’s in the rack & pinion or steering shaft / bearing.
If you could get another video like that showing the tie-rod ends, balljoints, and around the tops of the struts, that would be helpful too. Internet diagnoses always complicates the process, but it can still be done.
We will get it figured out!
Here is a ‘shade tree’ method of testing the IAC valve that a few mustang guys have used in the past.
– remove IAC and gasket from the side of the throttle body.
– Take thick tape (or a helpers hand) and block off the two ports to the side of the throttle body (leaving the IAC plugged in, as you can now watch if it moves, and also to not set a check engine light).
– start the engine with the ports blocked off, and see if there is a change in it staying running.
I know a guy who cleaned his throttle body once with brake clean and it got into the IAC valve and it deteriorated all of the rubber seals inside and it either didnt want to run at all, or idle at 1500-2000rpm. I did this same test and it ran well after that (it probably wont stay running well, as it is still expecting that feedback from the IAC, but it should stay running while cold.)
As far as a more technical method of testing.. i can get you the resistance values and voltage tests to see if it is indeed operating properly.. but i have used the above method before to diagnose a failed valve.
As far as the failed fuel pressure regulator.. when you pull the vacuum line off, you will definitely smell gas on the hose, and if its bad enough, you will see it for sure. however, symptoms of a failed pressure regulator usually lead to extreme rich conditions (fuel out of the tail pipe, blackened fouled plugs, check engine lights for rich conditions (although OBD1 is not as particular about rich/lean as OBD2). But then again, a hard restart when cold (fuel pressure draining off) could also be a symptom of a bad regulator (or check valve in the fuel pump).
