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so I popped them all out, and popped the tops off for inspection. all of them looked fine except for the EFI one which looked kinda burnt, but it still activated with current and continuity was good.
I didn’t look at wiring yet because I’m dreading it.
so I popped them all out, and popped the tops off for inspection. all of them looked fine except for the EFI one which looked kinda burnt, but it still activated with current and continuity was good.
I didn’t look at wiring yet because I’m dreading it.
right-o, good night.
I’ll check every relay, visually and continuity wise, as well as the areas around, as suggested.
I’ll update in the morning.
right-o, good night.
I’ll check every relay, visually and continuity wise, as well as the areas around, as suggested.
I’ll update in the morning.
🙁 continuity confirmed.
double checked, and also checked that there’s no continuity when no current is applied to the small poles.
also popped the cover off, it looked brand new in there, whole thing looked mint actually.
I’ve uploaded a photo of the diagram for this new box, should I test any other of these? Already checked fuses (visually and with the continuity checker)
…
so maybe it’s time to share a story I didn’t think could be related till it got traced down to an electrical fault…I got the car ~6000 miles ago. One of the first things I did was replace the two intake hoses because the old ones were cracked. While I was doing this, quite randomly I saw a _very_ large spark come from in and around the battery area, almost look like it arced but I can’t be sure in hindsight. It happened a few times in a second and then stopped, when I inspected the area I didn’t see any damage or even evidence of anything touching the battery. The car was not on during this process obviously, but I hadn’t removed the terminals (I didn’t think it necessary as I wasn’t doing anything related to electronics). car started fine after.
I have no idea what caused it or what it could have done, but I thought I’d share on the off chance it helps diagnosis any.
edit: not letting me upload the file, here’s a imgur link:
the washed out part says “DRL #2” I think.
🙁 continuity confirmed.
double checked, and also checked that there’s no continuity when no current is applied to the small poles.
also popped the cover off, it looked brand new in there, whole thing looked mint actually.
I’ve uploaded a photo of the diagram for this new box, should I test any other of these? Already checked fuses (visually and with the continuity checker)
…
so maybe it’s time to share a story I didn’t think could be related till it got traced down to an electrical fault…I got the car ~6000 miles ago. One of the first things I did was replace the two intake hoses because the old ones were cracked. While I was doing this, quite randomly I saw a _very_ large spark come from in and around the battery area, almost look like it arced but I can’t be sure in hindsight. It happened a few times in a second and then stopped, when I inspected the area I didn’t see any damage or even evidence of anything touching the battery. The car was not on during this process obviously, but I hadn’t removed the terminals (I didn’t think it necessary as I wasn’t doing anything related to electronics). car started fine after.
I have no idea what caused it or what it could have done, but I thought I’d share on the off chance it helps diagnosis any.
edit: not letting me upload the file, here’s a imgur link:
the washed out part says “DRL #2” I think.
NVM FOUND IT LOL.
there was a separate covered thing marked “RELAYS AND FUSES”. AFR HTR is in there. checking it now, is it safe to use the car battery to test them? I no longer have access to the small 12v I was using before.
NVM FOUND IT LOL.
there was a separate covered thing marked “RELAYS AND FUSES”. AFR HTR is in there. checking it now, is it safe to use the car battery to test them? I no longer have access to the small 12v I was using before.
pics uploaded, second one is washed out (thanks flash), but it’s the same as the last one I posted, just with the actual fuse box in the background.
pics uploaded, second one is washed out (thanks flash), but it’s the same as the last one I posted, just with the actual fuse box in the background.
Thanks for the help so far.
later in the night when I get bored/when it’s cooler I’ll go out and check the voltage on the source plugs for the short pins to make sure the EFI relay in your diagram is activating the relay.
I’ll also see how far I can trace back the wires from the sensors themselves.
also to confirm, I pulled the correct relay right? There wasn’t any one marked “AFR” or anything, just “HTR” next to the fuse for the AFR HTR.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/media/kunena/attachments/22826/1409099947592.jpg
just wanted to make sure I didn’t just test the wrong one.
Thanks for the help so far.
later in the night when I get bored/when it’s cooler I’ll go out and check the voltage on the source plugs for the short pins to make sure the EFI relay in your diagram is activating the relay.
I’ll also see how far I can trace back the wires from the sensors themselves.
also to confirm, I pulled the correct relay right? There wasn’t any one marked “AFR” or anything, just “HTR” next to the fuse for the AFR HTR.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/media/kunena/attachments/22826/1409099947592.jpg
just wanted to make sure I didn’t just test the wrong one.
