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It’s just a guess but possible a connection is a little iffy to a speed sensor. I might try checking the wiring. Maybe there will be visible signs of corrosion or wear. You could also try a voltage drop test at the speed sensors.
Well. That’s good to know. The manual I have said the regulator should set it at 13-17 at the fuel rail.
Well I cleaned out the throttle body and its definitely a little nicer off the line. But she still acts like she wants to stall out part of the time. I guess the next step is to test my O2 sensor and see if I have good volume from the fuel filter. Hopefully I’ll find my issue here. Any thoughts?
A drop test is basically going to tell you if you’re losing juice at the splice. First back probe the sensor the splice goes to and note the voltage there. Then check the voltage at the battery side of the splice. If they’re the same you know you need to either start searching elsewhere or replace the sensor depending on the code being thrown. If they’re different then your splice is bad.
Next time you experience this problem I would try jumping the solenoid by using a screwdriver to contact the two terminals on the solenoid. If this cranks the engine over you have a bad solenoid, if not you know its not getting enough juice from the battery.
I’ve always been told that the entire lentgh of metal and rubber hose needs to be replaced. That this connection is permanent. But I’ve been wrong before, thats just what I’ve been told and how I’ve done it in the past.
Off the top of my head i would say the original splice went bad somehow and threw the light. I would think it would go off after being reset by the battery being unhooked. If the light is still on after being reset then i would drop test the sensor and see if its got good juice. Again just a quick guess of the top of my head.