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I wonder if that’s the outside temperature sensor–on our 2009 CR-Vs, the sensor is located just out of sight behind the front bumper. If that’s what it is, as long as it hangs in free air (not resting up against a hot radiator, for example), it should work fine no matter how it is attached.
I’m wondering if part of the connector had a plastic piece that locked into that keyhole slot.
The post above is spam.
And I wonder if the OP ever got the busted bolt resolved…been there, done that with my ancient 1997 CR-V. The rust belt is not kind to our cars.
I’m kind of late to the party here as well, but I have apparently lucked out with Honda repairs. My closest dealer always offers me a few quotes (new Honda part, remanufactured Honda part, aftermarket remanufactured), and has always come in under the repair estimate they give me. I also took a gamble on a dealer in downtown Salt Lake City–the clutch coil on the compressor died on a road trip somewhere in South Dakota, and I picked the best-reviewed dealer to replace the compressor and freshen up the system. Smooth process, and I rented a new Civic for the day so we weren’t stuck in a hotel.
The worst, though, was when I bought my Merkur XR4Ti, brand new. (Worst car I’ve ever owned.) I had a list of items to fix a few months after buying it. The first part that clued me in was that although I had an appointment for 8:30 in the morning, they didn’t honor it, and made me wait behind a line of several other customers. When I got it back, the few things I needed done weren’t fixed. It had weak heat. They ran it in the shop and found no problem; well, um, aren’t you supposed to test it outside in the 20° weather after I plainly said it’s not heating the car in cold weather? The antenna “fix” lasted a week and wouldn’t retract again. Can’t remember the others. Also, prior to buying mine, they’d had a theft at the dealership where thieves ripped off two wheels from each Merkur (the sides facing the dealer, not the road), and they installed some Ford-branded wheel locks. After the key went missing about six years later, I went back to the dealer. They claimed they’d never installed wheel locks and had no idea how to get them off. (I bought a dirt cheap 18mm socket, hammered it into the lock, and got it out.) Aside from the dealership experience, the ownership experience was bad, but that was due to the overall poor quality of the entire car. It sat for several weeks at a better dealer, waiting on the input shaft for the manual transmission (which was very problematic–it would have been enough for a lemon law buyback, if we’d had lemon laws in our state at that time).
That Merkur experience drove me to purchase Hondas from that point forward. And thankfully due the reliability, it’s rare I ever have to visit a Honda service facility (although the newest we own are a pair of ’09 CR-Vs).
There is actually a recall in Canada for the third generation CR-V (2007-2011) where part of the rear frame can rust away, letting the rear trailing arm separate from it. It is not repairable. Honda there is recalling them and buying them back from owners if the rust has progressed to where it can’t be addressed. Here in the US, though, CR-Vs in the salt belt are having the same corrosion issues, but American Honda has not yet issued a recall. Glad they’re addressing it on the Elements though.
I put in some Marvel and let it run 30-45 minutes (couldn’t drive it), changed the oil and filter, and it’s running fine now with no P2646 and no bucking. Drove it for about an hour yesterday with some hard pulls and the issue is gone.
I still would like to know where the oil passage gets its oil from though. The Honda service manual doesn’t get that in depth of telling us where the oil is sourced.
A locksmith might program the keys to the vehicle for you, at a lower cost than what the dealer would charge.
This also depends on the age of your Honda. If you have a key with the immobilizer chip but have a separate fob, or with a key that has an integral fob (probably up through 2010 or so?), you can program the fob to the vehicle using a common procedure you can find online with a Google search. But the immobilizer chip in the key will need to be programmed with the proper equipment.
Just on a whim here–try shaking the exhaust. I’ve had odd noises in Hondas that come and go. Often it is a loud metallic rattling, but a heat shield hanging on loosely could tap at a lower frequency.
We had a 1999 TL for two glorious years before we lost it in a freak flood here in Michigan. (It was five inches of rain in a couple of hours.) I really miss that car (it was the deep emerald pearl color), and I think we dodged a bullet on the transmission, as it still had the 4-speed auto vs. the 5-speed (from 2000+) that grenaded regularly.
Thing is, the fix for the 5-speed auto has been staring everyone in the face for over a dozen years now, and hardly anyone does it. Don’t repair, rebuild your TL’s transmission. Instead, get the 5-speed auto trans out of a 2007 Accord. It’s the new, redesigned unit and they are much more solid. The few I’ve read about who have replaced them with these newer 5-speeds have had no failure issues at all. I guess all you need to do is swap a few sensors or solenoids over, and it’s good to go. It bolts right up since the V6s are all J-series engines.
The seat heater in the driver’s seat never worked when we bought the car, but I was able to remove the leather and repair the wire. The issue is that it burns through from the heat where it crosses over the metal supports. Simply soldering in wire in a few spots got it working nicely.
We did replace the rear struts, but, the car had probably 190k miles on it at that point.
The radio worked, but that system sounded terrible. I was almost ready to put a new system in it when the flood claimed it. Glad I didn’t bother.
The only other issue we had was the usual Honda evap error code, and all of that is located underneath closer to the gas tank. (My kiddo’s 2002 Accord has the exact same setup, since it’s essentially the same chassis.) That was another on my to-do list. We did lose a couple of the ignition coils but again, by nearly 200k miles, those usually go bad anyways. After literally hundreds of millions of sparks generated, they are bound to wear out.
As for tires, we put Kumhos on it and never had an issue–they rode smoother, gripped better and were quieter than the Michelins that were on it. Totally transformed the car, and they wore evenly up until she drowned (where they became flotation devices).
The 1999s still don’t have a bulletproof transmission, since the 1998-2002 Accords also had a lot of failures, my kiddo’s car included. They are very similar, from what I understand. Hers (B7XA trans) has had the harsh 1-2 shift ever since we bought it dirt cheap a few years ago. It hasn’t gotten any worse, but it’s annoying. With all the other problems now (the rear beam rusting through, the leaking gas tank, the exhaust that someone “fixed” by welding the entire thing together…even the cat…), it’s not worth replacing it. I did try cleaning the solenoids but it got no better.
A couple of months late here, but I picked up a Bluedriver from Amazon back in November. For most of the recent cars, it can read OBD-II, SRS and ABS codes. They work with the manufacturers on compatibility for the OEM-specific codes. (Check their site, where you can enter your make/model/year to see what compatibility they offer.) I’ve had one of those generic ELM327 for about five years, which works in a pinch and I need a quick OBD-II check.
I tried the Bluedriver on my 2004 Civic’s SRS error, but SRS support is not available for that generation of Civic (later ones are). For older cases like this Civic, the code can be read through triggering the ECU to flash the SRS malfunction indicator (small red seat belt/air bag logo) with the error code.
The Bluedriver is $99, readily available from Amazon and elsewhere, no additional fees or subscriptions required, and requires a phone app to use for both reading the codes, and updating the firmware on the Bluedriver unit. It’s not as complete as one of the full-blown scanners out there (especially those that can activate solenoids, for example), but it’s been a good mid-point between the two. No affiliation here, but hadn’t seen it mentioned in this thread and thought I’d toss it in.
