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[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=57288]Noises are impossible to track down without hearing them. That said, if it’s under load perhaps you have an EGR issue. EGR helps prevent detonation and preignition under load and if it’s not functioning properly it MIGHT cause the engine to make noise. It could also be a mechanical issue such as a worn out bearing or something like that. I suppose the first step is to see if you can track down where it’s coming from. You already have half the battle won by knowing WHEN the noise occurs. Keep us posted on your progress.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mpNRJ7m-c8%5B/quote%5D
Update to the diagnosis. My EGR valve has been disconnected since shortly after purchase due to it won’t run at all if it is connected. The knocking started about a month ago, it ran just fine without the knock for about 2-1/2 months, so it surly isn’t EGR related. The only thing I could think of is something related to the carburetor, if I adjust the carburetor just right it doesn’t knock under load anymore but the idle at that point is just too high. If it was a bearing I wouldn’t think the noise would go away with a carburetor adjustment, so I’m thinking it has to do with fuel/air mix, possibly a vacuum leak somewhere is the only thing I can figure out.
Will update more if I figure anything else out.
Thanks,
Bill[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=57288]Noises are impossible to track down without hearing them. That said, if it’s under load perhaps you have an EGR issue. EGR helps prevent detonation and preignition under load and if it’s not functioning properly it MIGHT cause the engine to make noise. It could also be a mechanical issue such as a worn out bearing or something like that. I suppose the first step is to see if you can track down where it’s coming from. You already have half the battle won by knowing WHEN the noise occurs. Keep us posted on your progress.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mpNRJ7m-c8%5B/quote%5D
Update to the diagnosis. My EGR valve has been disconnected since shortly after purchase due to it won’t run at all if it is connected. The knocking started about a month ago, it ran just fine without the knock for about 2-1/2 months, so it surly isn’t EGR related. The only thing I could think of is something related to the carburetor, if I adjust the carburetor just right it doesn’t knock under load anymore but the idle at that point is just too high. If it was a bearing I wouldn’t think the noise would go away with a carburetor adjustment, so I’m thinking it has to do with fuel/air mix, possibly a vacuum leak somewhere is the only thing I can figure out.
Will update more if I figure anything else out.
Thanks,
BillI’m planning on trying the seafoam here this weekend. Yes, it has the 2.8L V6 engine. I know about the lifters and such but its not the lifters making the noise, they rattle, but this is a knocking noise only during acceleration, the lifters rattle all the time LOL.
I’m planning on trying the seafoam here this weekend. Yes, it has the 2.8L V6 engine. I know about the lifters and such but its not the lifters making the noise, they rattle, but this is a knocking noise only during acceleration, the lifters rattle all the time LOL.
Well, I have a huge carbon deposit problem thanks to the previous owner’s complete neglect. This is what’s causing the knocking, just all the deposits causing issues, along with the carburetor not being adjusted properly caused some of it, its not as bad now, I’ve started dumping a little bit of ATF into the carb and it seems to be cleaning things out slowly.
Well, I have a huge carbon deposit problem thanks to the previous owner’s complete neglect. This is what’s causing the knocking, just all the deposits causing issues, along with the carburetor not being adjusted properly caused some of it, its not as bad now, I’ve started dumping a little bit of ATF into the carb and it seems to be cleaning things out slowly.
Good links, but not exactly describing the problem. As mileage climbs on these Jeeps the vacuum disconnect on the front axle usually starts to go bad, and rather than disengaging when 2WD mode is selected it stays locked in which acts like leaving the manual hubs engaged on older trucks, thus on the Jeeps making it feel like the 4WD is engaged, when in reality it is not, its just the axle is still connected together making the scrubbing and extra drive train component noises, and also lowering fuel economy.
Good links, but not exactly describing the problem. As mileage climbs on these Jeeps the vacuum disconnect on the front axle usually starts to go bad, and rather than disengaging when 2WD mode is selected it stays locked in which acts like leaving the manual hubs engaged on older trucks, thus on the Jeeps making it feel like the 4WD is engaged, when in reality it is not, its just the axle is still connected together making the scrubbing and extra drive train component noises, and also lowering fuel economy.
Ok, with the vehicle parked, jack up just the front end. Once you do so apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels, then shift your transmission into neutral, get out and spin the front wheels, if they spin freely of each other you have some sort of bearing issues or drag somewhere. If you spin the one of the front wheels and they both spin your front differential/driveline is engaged still which means that the 4WD vacuum actuator on the front passenger side of the front axle is stuck in the engaged position and thus giving you your turning problems. I know when these systems get old and neglected they will not disengage so your front axle is engaged but the transfer case isn’t so it makes it feel like you are in 4WD, and in fact you are not, just the front axle hasn’t disengaged.
You can either replace the actuator or there are manual control kits you can get, as well as manual locking hubs. Either way you most likely have an actuator that has seized and locked your front axle in permanently. Get it fixed, as it will quickly lower your fuel economy LOL.
Ok, with the vehicle parked, jack up just the front end. Once you do so apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels, then shift your transmission into neutral, get out and spin the front wheels, if they spin freely of each other you have some sort of bearing issues or drag somewhere. If you spin the one of the front wheels and they both spin your front differential/driveline is engaged still which means that the 4WD vacuum actuator on the front passenger side of the front axle is stuck in the engaged position and thus giving you your turning problems. I know when these systems get old and neglected they will not disengage so your front axle is engaged but the transfer case isn’t so it makes it feel like you are in 4WD, and in fact you are not, just the front axle hasn’t disengaged.
You can either replace the actuator or there are manual control kits you can get, as well as manual locking hubs. Either way you most likely have an actuator that has seized and locked your front axle in permanently. Get it fixed, as it will quickly lower your fuel economy LOL.
[quote=”da_whipple” post=53681]My question is What are the benefits of drive by wire. The old cable throttle must be much less expensive to manufacture. They almost never failed. and in my opinion are quicker to respond than the drive by wire systems.
Don’t get me wrong. I love the introduction of new technologies in to the field. It keeps it interesting.
I remember the switch from points to electronic ignition, and the move from carbs to fuel injection, and the integration of OBDII. Many older mechanics resisted these changes though the benefits of the these systems were obvious.
Maybe I’m just blind to the benefits.[/quote]
I have a 1984 Ford Bronco 2, 2.8L V6 4×4 5 speed, and I also have a 2008 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 5.7L V8 6 Speed Auto 4×4.
I like both my trucks, however I will say this for a fact. If you are doing a lot of driving on rough roads, offroad, trails, etc. The drive by wire sucks. Not to mention theres a huge hesitation or more of a lag time between when you floor board the accelerator and when the computer decides to tell the engine you want to go faster really fast. Not to mention on rough roads and trails the throttle with the drive by wire is extremely touchy so if your foot starts bouncing off the accelerator pedal you get a surging effect of the throttle. With my Bronco 2’s actual manual throttle cable, I get instant throttle changes, and since the manual throttle has springs attached to it, and a bit of resistance, the offroad and trail driving is much easier because you aren’t getting all of the feedback from unintended throttle application because of your foot bouncing off of the pedal.
When it comes to mechanical stuff, I have to say I’d rather have the old stuff, at least when something breaks I can fix it myself. This computerized stuff is not only expensive, but oftentimes is dealer proprietary crap meaning empty your bank account cuz its gonna get expensive. I can adjust a carburetor on my old truck and make it run great. Something goes wrong with that newer truck its a trip to the dealer because I don’t have the equipment to diagnose or repair electronic stuff on a vehicle.
84 Bronco 2, a little rough, but gets me from point a to point b
[IMG]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh548/mowerguy2012/IMG_0973_zps7213a616.jpg[/IMG]08 Toyota Tundra
[IMG]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh548/mowerguy2012/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20BILLS-PC/2012/WillowCreekOct232012.jpg[/IMG][quote=”da_whipple” post=53681]My question is What are the benefits of drive by wire. The old cable throttle must be much less expensive to manufacture. They almost never failed. and in my opinion are quicker to respond than the drive by wire systems.
Don’t get me wrong. I love the introduction of new technologies in to the field. It keeps it interesting.
I remember the switch from points to electronic ignition, and the move from carbs to fuel injection, and the integration of OBDII. Many older mechanics resisted these changes though the benefits of the these systems were obvious.
Maybe I’m just blind to the benefits.[/quote]
I have a 1984 Ford Bronco 2, 2.8L V6 4×4 5 speed, and I also have a 2008 Toyota Tundra Double Cab 5.7L V8 6 Speed Auto 4×4.
I like both my trucks, however I will say this for a fact. If you are doing a lot of driving on rough roads, offroad, trails, etc. The drive by wire sucks. Not to mention theres a huge hesitation or more of a lag time between when you floor board the accelerator and when the computer decides to tell the engine you want to go faster really fast. Not to mention on rough roads and trails the throttle with the drive by wire is extremely touchy so if your foot starts bouncing off the accelerator pedal you get a surging effect of the throttle. With my Bronco 2’s actual manual throttle cable, I get instant throttle changes, and since the manual throttle has springs attached to it, and a bit of resistance, the offroad and trail driving is much easier because you aren’t getting all of the feedback from unintended throttle application because of your foot bouncing off of the pedal.
When it comes to mechanical stuff, I have to say I’d rather have the old stuff, at least when something breaks I can fix it myself. This computerized stuff is not only expensive, but oftentimes is dealer proprietary crap meaning empty your bank account cuz its gonna get expensive. I can adjust a carburetor on my old truck and make it run great. Something goes wrong with that newer truck its a trip to the dealer because I don’t have the equipment to diagnose or repair electronic stuff on a vehicle.
84 Bronco 2, a little rough, but gets me from point a to point b
[IMG]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh548/mowerguy2012/IMG_0973_zps7213a616.jpg[/IMG]08 Toyota Tundra
[IMG]http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh548/mowerguy2012/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20BILLS-PC/2012/WillowCreekOct232012.jpg[/IMG]Most of the vehicles I’ve had have been automatics, I’ve always had the fluid changed in them at least once every couple years.
Recently, well the past 8 years I’ve had a few different vehicles with manual transmissions. Here’s my opinion on them, and fluid changes. If your transmission or any other part of your vehicle has a drain plug, its meant to be changed. Even if your transmission doesn’t have a drain plug, you can most likely remove the oil pan on the transmission and drain and refill it somehow. When I get a used vehicle from anyone I always drain and refill all the fluids from front to back because you never know how the previous owner treated the vehicle, and fluids are far cheaper than replacement components especially engines and transmissions.
Be sure you check the specifications for your transmission though, some require gear oil while others actually require automatic transmission fluid even though its a manual transmission. Some of the transmissions have tighter tolerances and using gear oil its too thick to properly get into all the internal components and will not properly lubricate the parts, automatic transmission fluid is thinner so it seems to work better in some applications.
Most of the vehicles I’ve had have been automatics, I’ve always had the fluid changed in them at least once every couple years.
Recently, well the past 8 years I’ve had a few different vehicles with manual transmissions. Here’s my opinion on them, and fluid changes. If your transmission or any other part of your vehicle has a drain plug, its meant to be changed. Even if your transmission doesn’t have a drain plug, you can most likely remove the oil pan on the transmission and drain and refill it somehow. When I get a used vehicle from anyone I always drain and refill all the fluids from front to back because you never know how the previous owner treated the vehicle, and fluids are far cheaper than replacement components especially engines and transmissions.
Be sure you check the specifications for your transmission though, some require gear oil while others actually require automatic transmission fluid even though its a manual transmission. Some of the transmissions have tighter tolerances and using gear oil its too thick to properly get into all the internal components and will not properly lubricate the parts, automatic transmission fluid is thinner so it seems to work better in some applications.
It works, but at $10 a can, the Chemtool B12 works just the same and is only about $4 a can. I don’t use it on my new truck because after doing it once and spending $85 to have the vehicle’s computer zero-point calibrated I’ll never do it again. Older, non-electronic vehicles are fine, new ones only use it in the fuel tank to help clean the injectors.