[David]

Thanks Mr.Eric, certainly a good article, definitely helpful 🙂

Regarding Starter issues. I removed the starter (it was in a super awkward location, could really test/reach it properly so I took it out), and provided power to the Solenoid. I know when that happens, the gear pops out. But what does it mean if the gear pops out and tries turning slowly, even if no power is provided to the starter? It did this at first, but now just moves.

I provided power to the other connections too (starter and starter+solenoid) … seems to working alright. I removed the main cable harness too from battery > starter/soldenoid, checked connections on both cable and starter/solenoid.. nothing suss, looks mostly clean, but took a dremel with wire brish attachment and cleaned the contacts anyway.

Thoughts?

next I might do a voltage drop tests from battery > starter.. see how much of a drop there is.

Haven’t quite figured out the code issue as yet, put that on hold temporarily.

Thanks 🙂

[David]

Hey guys, thanks for the feedback 🙂

Your clicking with no start sounds like the starter is failing (solenoid)

hmmm, hopefully it’s nothing serious : . I came across a couple of videos with tests on the wiring to the solenoid/starter. Might give that a try when the suns up. Unfortunately my starter is in a terrible spot 🙁 right under the engine with little space to get my hands :

As for all your engine code. I would look for basic ignition inspection (plug, wire, oil leak by spark plug) might turn out to be more complex like a crank sensor or such…

I’ve done a couple of tests so far.
According to my repair manual, the specs & results say,

~High Tension Lead Resistance Limit~

#1 Lead: 15.3 k/ohms === 6.59 k/ohms
#2 Lead: 12.4 k/ohms === 9.81 k/ohms
#3 Lead: 10.7 k/ohms === 7.95 k/ohms
#4 Lead: 8.80 k/ohms === 7.11 k/ohms

~Ignition Coil Resistance~

On the Engine, it’s 1,2,3,4.
On the Coil, it’s 1,4,3,2

With a multimetre, I linked Pin-3 with Pin-1 then pin-2 .. yet I got a 0.00 reading for all attempts .. what would this mean ?

Battery volts are around 12.5v , will have to contact a mechanic to see if they can do a load test & check the CCA.

Starter relay tested ok. I followed Erics video to test and it worked good. 🙂

trying to figure out where all the ground connectors are in the engine bay, but reading through the book, haven’t really discovered them yet. :

I did however, find a bit of water in Spark Plug cylinder #1. I wiped it out and all good now, but no code error for #1 came up.

Any background of engine running rough?

mmm not really. The start issue has been there for a while (which I might leave fixing for now uptil i get everything else fixed first). I have noticed a decrease in performance over the last year, which I have since done a service on a few months back. (filter, fluid changes)

Other than that, couldnt really tell of roughness to be honest :

In the USA 1996 cars had to be OBD11 compliant but in Canada it didn’t happen until 1998 even though they had OBD11 ports installed.

oh ok, I came across a post of someone who said they contacted Hyundai as to whether their 97/98 Hyundai had OBD2, Hyundai said it had 2 .. can’t remember if if was the Accent though. Will contact Hyundai mechanic(s) & see what they say I tihnk.

Thanks again guys, really appreciate it 🙂

[David]

Hey guys, thanks for the feedback 🙂

Your clicking with no start sounds like the starter is failing (solenoid)

hmmm, hopefully it’s nothing serious : . I came across a couple of videos with tests on the wiring to the solenoid/starter. Might give that a try when the suns up. Unfortunately my starter is in a terrible spot 🙁 right under the engine with little space to get my hands :

As for all your engine code. I would look for basic ignition inspection (plug, wire, oil leak by spark plug) might turn out to be more complex like a crank sensor or such…

I’ve done a couple of tests so far.
According to my repair manual, the specs & results say,

~High Tension Lead Resistance Limit~

#1 Lead: 15.3 k/ohms === 6.59 k/ohms
#2 Lead: 12.4 k/ohms === 9.81 k/ohms
#3 Lead: 10.7 k/ohms === 7.95 k/ohms
#4 Lead: 8.80 k/ohms === 7.11 k/ohms

~Ignition Coil Resistance~

On the Engine, it’s 1,2,3,4.
On the Coil, it’s 1,4,3,2

With a multimetre, I linked Pin-3 with Pin-1 then pin-2 .. yet I got a 0.00 reading for all attempts .. what would this mean ?

Battery volts are around 12.5v , will have to contact a mechanic to see if they can do a load test & check the CCA.

Starter relay tested ok. I followed Erics video to test and it worked good. 🙂

trying to figure out where all the ground connectors are in the engine bay, but reading through the book, haven’t really discovered them yet. :

I did however, find a bit of water in Spark Plug cylinder #1. I wiped it out and all good now, but no code error for #1 came up.

Any background of engine running rough?

mmm not really. The start issue has been there for a while (which I might leave fixing for now uptil i get everything else fixed first). I have noticed a decrease in performance over the last year, which I have since done a service on a few months back. (filter, fluid changes)

Other than that, couldnt really tell of roughness to be honest :

In the USA 1996 cars had to be OBD11 compliant but in Canada it didn’t happen until 1998 even though they had OBD11 ports installed.

oh ok, I came across a post of someone who said they contacted Hyundai as to whether their 97/98 Hyundai had OBD2, Hyundai said it had 2 .. can’t remember if if was the Accent though. Will contact Hyundai mechanic(s) & see what they say I tihnk.

Thanks again guys, really appreciate it 🙂

[David]

Hey Hamby, thanks for the post 🙂

I’ll contact Hyundai and see what they say, but from reading other forums, others are having the same issue with OBD reader(s) too. The car was manufactured post 1996, but, it’s an Australian version, so maybe it might be different? I’ll ask around and see what others say.
The unit itself powers up, detects via bluetooth, but just won’t connect to the available protocols.

Checked through the fuses, everything seems good.

Thanks again 🙂

[David]

Hey Hamby, thanks for the post 🙂

I’ll contact Hyundai and see what they say, but from reading other forums, others are having the same issue with OBD reader(s) too. The car was manufactured post 1996, but, it’s an Australian version, so maybe it might be different? I’ll ask around and see what others say.
The unit itself powers up, detects via bluetooth, but just won’t connect to the available protocols.

Checked through the fuses, everything seems good.

Thanks again 🙂

[David]

Hey Eric, thanks for the reply 🙂

Looks like I have OBD1 port, not OBD2 :. I might look around and see what local mechanics charge for code retrieval.

in the meantime, I was wondering if you have a video/guide for testing ignition coils/leads ?

Regards,

[David]

Hey Eric, thanks for the reply 🙂

Looks like I have OBD1 port, not OBD2 :. I might look around and see what local mechanics charge for code retrieval.

in the meantime, I was wondering if you have a video/guide for testing ignition coils/leads ?

Regards,

[David]

[quote=”tyuhas” post=94661]Thought two short videos may help.
First one has plugs placed.
Second one has no plugs….I am not able to load the small video file in a .ZIP file extension.

Tom[/quote]

Upload to youtube and just post the link here :). I too am having a No Crank/no Start issue so I’m interested to know what noise you have & your outcome. 🙂

Welcome to the Forums too 😀

~

[David]

[quote=”tyuhas” post=94661]Thought two short videos may help.
First one has plugs placed.
Second one has no plugs….I am not able to load the small video file in a .ZIP file extension.

Tom[/quote]

Upload to youtube and just post the link here :). I too am having a No Crank/no Start issue so I’m interested to know what noise you have & your outcome. 🙂

Welcome to the Forums too 😀

~

[David]

damn 🙁 .. thanks guys

Just wondering, how bad is it to drive without the honeycomb section in the cat converter ?

[David]

damn 🙁 .. thanks guys

Just wondering, how bad is it to drive without the honeycomb section in the cat converter ?

[David]

UPDATE: So.. I purchased a new accelerator cable (about $65) and while I was there, the sales guy asked what happened with my original cable (seized), he told me the most common cause he’s seen is a poor ground connection somewhere (either engine block or chassis) can cause a current to make its way through the cable, heat the plastic shielding and cause it to bond with the cable, thus seizing :O … makes sense since I had the poor ground to the chassis.. go figure.

So, just need to install the cable, test drive 🙂 .. then hopefully all good.

[David]

UPDATE: So.. I purchased a new accelerator cable (about $65) and while I was there, the sales guy asked what happened with my original cable (seized), he told me the most common cause he’s seen is a poor ground connection somewhere (either engine block or chassis) can cause a current to make its way through the cable, heat the plastic shielding and cause it to bond with the cable, thus seizing :O … makes sense since I had the poor ground to the chassis.. go figure.

So, just need to install the cable, test drive 🙂 .. then hopefully all good.

[David]

Heeey Guys, thanks for the replies 🙂

Soooo it would seem some silly-billy didn’t screw a ground wire in properly (least I think it was a ground. little wire screwed into side of car). Tightened the screw, installed battery and all seems ok (for now, need to do a test drive)

So, issue #1 and possibly #3 fixed. When I re-install accelerator cable, I’ll test #3 again.

#2.. nooo idea : . I removed the throttle cable (see pic attachment.), tried degrease the cable.. but no luck. I cannot make the thing budge at all.. it’s like it’s fused in there and won’t slide :

When I cleaned the engine, I only degreased in certain areas, but I know I didn’t go near the throttle cable, nor with the pressure washer. :

So at this stage, looks like im off to the wreckers for a new cable. By the looks of it, I can’t just change the cable itself, I’ll need everything in the picture??

Thanks again,

Attachments:

• throttlecable.jpg

[David]

Heeey Guys, thanks for the replies 🙂

Soooo it would seem some silly-billy didn’t screw a ground wire in properly (least I think it was a ground. little wire screwed into side of car). Tightened the screw, installed battery and all seems ok (for now, need to do a test drive)

So, issue #1 and possibly #3 fixed. When I re-install accelerator cable, I’ll test #3 again.

#2.. nooo idea : . I removed the throttle cable (see pic attachment.), tried degrease the cable.. but no luck. I cannot make the thing budge at all.. it’s like it’s fused in there and won’t slide :

When I cleaned the engine, I only degreased in certain areas, but I know I didn’t go near the throttle cable, nor with the pressure washer. :

So at this stage, looks like im off to the wreckers for a new cable. By the looks of it, I can’t just change the cable itself, I’ll need everything in the picture??

Thanks again,

Attachments:

• throttlecable.jpg

[Author]

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