[David]

Thanks for the reply Dave, 🙂

The code I got (and I believe it was the same code I got a few months back too) was P0335. I was reading a little and apparently it was common for the crank/cam sensors to fail in the Pulsar, but as you said, codes give you direction, not answers.

Regarding the block test, how would you do that? Is it just a matter of getting one those those ‘reaction’ testers where you push it into the radiator fill hole and it reacts to gases ?
I originally thought it might be head gasket a few months back, but I just inspected the coolant (no bubbling or discoloration), and inspected the oil (did oil change), no milky substance.

Regarding leaking radiator, good tip, thanks :), didn’t think about the smaller passages, I’ll have to keep that in mind. If the leak is coming from the seal between the radiator top-tank and the radiator core, is it possible to bend back the clamping pins holding the tank on, change the seal, then re-attach the top-tank ?

Thanks again 🙂

[David]

Bump, anyone? I’m sure it would be OK assuming I use a correct cleaner. The only possible issues I can see (might not be an issue), are

!. Reinstalling new rivets. I could use a soft/aluminium rivet so I don’t apply too much pressure and crack the plastic housing. ?
2. Whether the Electronic IAC is sealed, and whether the seal/gasket can be replaced, or alternative sealer applied.
3. What cleaner to use that won’t affect any electronic inside. I’m thinking maybe TB cleaner might be a bit harsh? Perhaps IPA and a toothbrush?

Anyone cleaned one before ?

[David]

Update: Topped it up, still did it, but took it for a drive, and did some circles. Seemed to pretty much be gone now.

I ended up putting in another 500ml (instead of the 200ml I thought was left) :/ … still have 500ml in the bottle, so tomorrow, Ill drain out 500ml from the rear diff and just top it up with fresh stuff.

note to self: don’t assume to know how much fluid is in something. fill till spill.

Thanks 🙂

[David]

Thanks Bonnieman,

I used DPSFII Dual Pump Fluid.

I’l top it up tomorrow then take it for a spin, see how it goes. Hopefully all goes well. Ill keep you posted

[David]

[quote=”simrd” post=186302]have you tried disconnecting the cat and trying that as your engine cud be choking . wont cost you nowt so worth a try . the oil studs in the cat can be replaced to not much from honda[/quote]

Hey Simrd, I thought about taking the cat out to inspect and maybe try clean in case there is some blockage, though other than that, the shuddering comes whilst driving, not sure about driving around without a cat and open exhaust under the car.. could cause damage to other components ??

[David]

[quote=”simrd” post=186273]i was thinking about this on the way to work this morning we have the same year crv . is your drive shaft true . and are the bearings in the u joint ok to ?[/quote]

Drive shaft seems ok. I don’t have it installed at the moment, so it’s only running as FWD. The U-Joints though still seem fine, had a mechanic look at them, he said they were notchy, but ok.

[David]

[quote=”simrd” post=186246]have you looked at your control arm bushings? but the Diff mounts may still be at faul as even with the shaft off the diff moving around under the car may shake tho the chaises . get under the car and have a look how bad there are
below is the bushing set up for the diff
[/quote]

Thanks Simrd. Had a look at the bushings and mounts this afternoon.. nothing seems out of the ordinary, everything seems intact.

I took my CV axles to a couple of mechanics today, both said they seemed fine. One suggested that the issue could still be coming from the rear diff even with the drive shaft off.

Currently re-installing the axles (left side’s being a pain.. wont go all way into transaxle :angry: ,, might have to ‘tap’ it in.. try to anyways.

After that, ill jack the rear and start to inspect there.

[David]

[quote=”college man” post=178375]see if this helps. Sometimes a cheap price will get you cheap products.
I would stay with Honda or beck/arnley. You could google the parts and make
a comparison.

http://www.hondapartsoverstock.com/p/Honda_2004_CR-V/Mounting-assembly-a–rear-differential/50725528/50710-S9A-A01.html?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla%5B/quote%5D

Thanks College Man :), I checked the link and it looks like they ship to Australia.

Ill google the parts too for comparison just incase.

I was also told by someone to check/change rear diff fluid.. should I change that before ordering just in case it help with the vibration ? or do the parts above (especially the Dyn damper) look too far gone and should just replace anyways ?

Also, what happens if I was to remove the Dynamic Damper all together?

Thanks again 🙂

[David]

Thanks guys 🙂

I couldn’t find any specific brake grease or silicone grease locally, but did pick up some of this…

Even though it specifies that it’s ok for brake applications, can anyone tell me if it’s ok to use a a lube for the brake caliper slide pins ??

Thanks 🙂

[David]

Thanks guys 🙂 .. someone said it might also be “Upper control arm Bushes”.. in-case it isn’t the rotors, is there anything else that can cause the shudder ?

[David]

Awesome!, thanks delwyn!

When you mentioned about the battery, I jumped onto google and came across this video.

Turns out, I had to “re-program” the automatic window switch due to disconnecting the battery. Didn’t realize it was a programmable feature.. always thought it was just an automatic switch in the regulator.

All working now! thanks again 🙂

[David]

Hi dblisle, will check fuel pressure asap 🙂

Vehicle is a Holden (Isuzu) Rodeo 2001
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/59192-help-holden-isuzu-crank-no-start#143568

Thanks 🙂

[David]

Thanks Eric :), I checked that links (and all your videos), great stuff 🙂

I tested the plugs today for spark and they seem ok to me.

Probably not the best way to test. never tested before,

I removed the Fuel Pump relay before doing the test, but after the test, I smelt a little fuel… Im guessing event hough the pump was disabled, the injectors still fired 9whatever fuel was in them) ??

I ran the test a 2nd time, this time with the Accelerator pressed to the floor (pump relay still removed)

I’ll double check the fuel pump hopefully tomorrow, Ill change the filter and check at same time.

I dont have access to a compression tester, but was considering ordering a cheap one on ebay.

ebay.com.au/itm/161596799927?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Though, does anyone know the average adapter sizes for cars / motorcycles ? That one listed comes with 4x adapters, not 100% if I need a different size or not.

I read somewhere that if the engine does get flooded (fuel), is leaks down the sides of the cylinder (into the oil) and prevents compression.. is this true?

If so, I need to do an oil change, should I try draining the oil (cold, cant start car to warm the oil) > fill then maybe drain again (once/if I can get started)?

Thanks again, much appreciated 🙂

[David]

*bump* anyone with experience or knowledge of these cars ? 🙂

[David]

Thanks Mr.Eric, certainly a good article, definitely helpful 🙂

Regarding Starter issues. I removed the starter (it was in a super awkward location, could really test/reach it properly so I took it out), and provided power to the Solenoid. I know when that happens, the gear pops out. But what does it mean if the gear pops out and tries turning slowly, even if no power is provided to the starter? It did this at first, but now just moves.

I provided power to the other connections too (starter and starter+solenoid) … seems to working alright. I removed the main cable harness too from battery > starter/soldenoid, checked connections on both cable and starter/solenoid.. nothing suss, looks mostly clean, but took a dremel with wire brish attachment and cleaned the contacts anyway.

Thoughts?

next I might do a voltage drop tests from battery > starter.. see how much of a drop there is.

Haven’t quite figured out the code issue as yet, put that on hold temporarily.

Thanks 🙂

[Author]

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