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Well, I’m pleased to say, I got her back on the road this week! T)
I really was starting to think the old 289 was toast, but it’s purring like a kitty again.Thanks for the help guys!
Just a quick update. I pulled the lifters out to give them all a look over…one of them fell apart after I pulled it out. That’s new.
Ordered a new set.
Boy oh boy….Thanks for that. I think it got me to a better place now since the car isn’t backfiring anymore. It’s still not starting, but at least it doesn’t sound like I’m shooting people in my garage.
Taking a pause now to wait for the battery to charge up since I’ve run it down pretty good with all the revving. Hoping once it’s charged up this thing will start up. If not, I think I’ll push it off a cliff.Cranking good now. Still not starting. Ugh… Not even giving me a “kind of thinking about starting” stutter. C;(
Yep, spark is confirmed. Fuel is confirmed. The carburetor is brand new and was running great before all this.
Well, looks like it’s back to the drawing board. I did some compression tests and they were terribly low… 90psi tops. C;(
Just pulled the intake, guess I’m gonna have to pull the heads off too. Son of a…Well, I got it all back together. It won’t start though, just keeps backfiring out the top of the carb. Ugh… I put the distributor back the same way I took it out.
So I know it’s in the right place. I’m afraid of tightening down the rockers too much, so I left them all just a little loose so I can do the tightening with the engine running. I’ve quadruple checked that all the spark plug wires are going to the right plugs. I’m going to go do this now -> W-|Flipped the dizzy around and I get gunshots out the exhaust.
I’m trying the valve lash adjustment again according to the service manual. It says to tighten the rocker bolt of the intake and exhaust valve for the 1st cylinder when it’s at the end of the 1st cylinders compression stroke. Wouldn’t the end of the compression stroke be when the intake valve is wide open?? Or is that just as the intake valve closes? Cause if that’s the case, what’s it matter if I adjust it at the very end of the compression stroke or when other cylinders are active, which would assure that the 1st cylinders valves are both seated?
Surprisingly everything else looks to be fine. I’d expected some damage to the distributor or cam, but it’s all good. So, yeah, just a bump in the road.
I picked up a new stock pump and shaft today. All in all, I’m out about $30…so I guess I can’t complain about anything other than losing a few nice days to cruise around in the Comet.
No worries, stock pump all the way here. I was surprised to find the local Autozone had the stock pump and shaft on hand. Was afraid I was going to have to order it. But, I suppose there are enough Mustangs out there, with this same engine, to keep one in stock.
I’m wondering if the rocker tightening had anything to do with this afterall. The old oil pump wouldn’t turn at all. So, I’m thinking
it was just a coincidence. Gonna put it all back together again today. Hoping to have her back on the road this week. Fingers crossed that no more stupid things happen.Yeah, that’s the last time I do zero lash without the car running.
I got the oil pan off today and pulled the oil pump… twisted off shaft seen in the attached pic. Also found a bolt in the oil pan. Oops… Might have had something to do with it. No idea how that got in there.
At least a new oil pump and shaft doesn’t cost much…and this gives me an excuse to get the oil pan cleaned up.
No, everything was left stock and no milling was done. I just replaced all the valves and hardware on them and cleaned them up all nice. The car had leaking head gaskets so I used that as an excuse to clean everything up.
Everything seemed to be running great though until I tightened things apparently too much. So I’m wondering if I just did the valve lash adjustment incorrectly.
In the past I’ve done it with the engine running, but I did it with it off this time and just bumped the engine over since that’s what the manual said to do. Now I’m wishing I’d done it the way I usually do.I’m guessing I’m going to remove the intake to see what’s going on with the lifters, but I’m assuming something has happened to them since oil isn’t flowing anymore. It was initially circulating perfectly.
Can lifters be compressed to the point where it doesn’t work anymore? Or do you think I’ve damaged the cam or worse??
Thanks for the input. Boy, I’m hope that’s not the case, I don’t really feel like lifting the engine today.
You think the oil pump shaft would snap before a push rod would bend or something?Oil was flowing out the top of the push rods previously… that is not occurring anymore. So If there is any oil pressure it’s not enough to move the oil up to the top of the engine. The valve covers are off since I was adjusting valve lash.
I don’t have an oil pressure gage on this car, just a light. And the light is on… so it’s either low or no pressure.
The engine turns over. I’m sure it was a clearance issue before I loosened the rockers, because it wasn’t turning over. But now, it’s turning over, but no oil flowing out of the push rods, and while it is turning over, it’s struggling to turnover and that’s with the rockers loosened to the point where i can jiggle them a bit.
So, with the rockers loosened, something is still impeding the engines ability to turn over well. I thought I’d just run the battery down, but I’ve been charging it all day and it’s still turning over slowly.