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The surfaces to be sealed need to be clean clean clean. Surgically clean. Really clean.
Also, sometimes the dynamic sealing surfaces are worn, and the new seal just can’t lay correctly.
I’ve not heard of a bad batch of oil seals, but a few years ago there were some fake tire valve stems made of cheap rubber that quickly rotted a leaked. You may have tapped into a lousy batch of seals.
The surfaces to be sealed need to be clean clean clean. Surgically clean. Really clean.
Also, sometimes the dynamic sealing surfaces are worn, and the new seal just can’t lay correctly.
I’ve not heard of a bad batch of oil seals, but a few years ago there were some fake tire valve stems made of cheap rubber that quickly rotted a leaked. You may have tapped into a lousy batch of seals.
Hi:
I’ve always used anti-seize on wheel studs, and I generally torque to something close to spec, although I’m lazy about getting the torque wrench out. My arm is “reasonably” calibrated after 40 years of such work. I don’t put anti-seize where the lug nut bears on the wheel. I keep this contact area clean. But, anytime I have a wheel off, I check it a day or two later, or if there is a long drive I’ll stop and retorque after an hour or so. Never had anything back off.
Fastener torque seems a very imprecise specification to me. Static and dynamic coefficients of friction can easily differ by 30%, static being higher. Thus, a retorque is very different than the original torque if the fastener is kept in motion (dynamic coefficient) up to the torque spec. Thats why the really critical applications use some type of fastener stretch, pre-load, or torque control bolt.
For brakes, if things are in good shape and fasteners snug properly, I reuse them.
However, no approach is perfect, so I think I’ll go check all three vehicles right now!
Hi:
I’ve always used anti-seize on wheel studs, and I generally torque to something close to spec, although I’m lazy about getting the torque wrench out. My arm is “reasonably” calibrated after 40 years of such work. I don’t put anti-seize where the lug nut bears on the wheel. I keep this contact area clean. But, anytime I have a wheel off, I check it a day or two later, or if there is a long drive I’ll stop and retorque after an hour or so. Never had anything back off.
Fastener torque seems a very imprecise specification to me. Static and dynamic coefficients of friction can easily differ by 30%, static being higher. Thus, a retorque is very different than the original torque if the fastener is kept in motion (dynamic coefficient) up to the torque spec. Thats why the really critical applications use some type of fastener stretch, pre-load, or torque control bolt.
For brakes, if things are in good shape and fasteners snug properly, I reuse them.
However, no approach is perfect, so I think I’ll go check all three vehicles right now!
Tell us more about what you are doing.
My wife has a 1999 CRV, but an automatic, so mounts might differ.
Thanks.
Updating this thread.
I rebuilt the right rear caliper today. The piston was really tight in the bore. I pinched off the brake hose and disconnected the hose and got the caliper off the car. The piston threaded out of the caliper body quite easily, and the external boot, which was torn, came out easily.
The piston had light rust but cleaned up well, and the caliper bore was perfect.
The worst corrosion was where the external boot seal with the caliper body. I cleaned this with diligence but I worry about the ability of this boot to seal against the caliper body. The square section O-ring was clean and its groove was is good shape.
Reassembling the components with new seal and boot, and bleeding, was without any difficulty.
But in the final analysis, I think it is likely that sometime in the snowy and salty season, a remanufactured unit will be the correct long term remedy.
Thanks guys.
I may well find that the bore and piston are in poor shape, and the remanufactured unit will certainly be less work.
I’ve rebuilt many brake calipers on motorcycle systems, and these are almost always aluminum bodied calipers which are much more susceptible to wet brake fluid corrosion. It is a tedious job but I don’t mind the distraction and the focus required.
This works will probably take the Accord off the road for a day or two, so I’ll get into it as the motorcycling weather improves.
Beefy:
Thanks for the help. It certainly appears that the Centric CE143.40011 seal kit is the one to use.
I started to order 2 kits, but it looks like they will only ship within the US. I’m in Canada. Maybe there is a ebay seller willing to ship here.
The prices are certainly good
Regarding worries with respect to viscosity (5W30 and 5W20), the 30 and 20 suffix is determined by the viscosity at 100 C. And each suffix is a range of permissible viscosity, not an exact number, though you would expect the oil manufacturer to hit the mid-point of the range. But business being business, they will often target the least expensive zone in the viscosity range to minimize their manufacturing costs.
Considering that our engines operate over a wide range of temperatures, and not just 100 C, then this particular viscosity measurement is not greatly meaningful. Impose on this the viscosity drop associated with fuel dilution, and the viscosity increase from oxidative thickening, then we arrive at the conclusion that engines are not very fussy about viscosity. The exceptions being if the oil is too viscous for a cold start, and too viscous to be distributed quickly by the oil pump, then real problems occur.
For taps the threading process is very dependent on the hole size. If you try to cut a thread approaching 100% of the crest height, it takes very very much more torque than a 50 or 75% thread engagement.
I like things strong so I opt for a hole size that gives me greater than 75%, but this means you really have to be careful about not breaking the tap.
A broken tap in the hole can slow down or even end a project.
Those professional machinists out there can help me, but I think the usual recommended hole size is for a 75% thread engagement, which is a bit sloppy for my liking.
Interesting. I never thought about the soft and hard shifting and clutch life.
Normally you’d think that a quick and abrupt clutch load would been more wearing than soft, but gaining softness with slippage rather than speed matching is a lousy strategy.
I suppose that if these transmissions are fussy about their fluids, then they must be generally “high strung” and hard to please. Or as we say in relationships, “high maintenance”. In my mind good engineering practice would have this transmission run well on any oil thrown at it.
Thanks fitone.
The blog was interesting.
One of the difficulties I’m having with learning about my specific recall is that there are so many Honda automatic transmission problems occurring over the last 15 years, that it seems near impossible to sort it all out.
The automatic transmission has about 70 years of research and development, so they should be at this point an extremely reliable device. They should be about as reliable as a wheel. Not tire, but wheel.
However, I’m am not naive, as I spent the last 10 years of my career removing (yes removing!) product quality from commercial goods so that they could be more cheaply manufactured, and so be more profitable for the organization. This was rationalized by thinking that we were just removing “quality give away” which would never be noticed or appreciated by the customer. For example, why make a transmission that lasts 800 000 kilometers, when most are being trashed and recycled at 300 000 km?
However, management gets hooked on the financial savings of quality removal, and they demand more and more removal until the product is no good.
I have no idea of the internal workings at Honda, but “quality de-contenting” was widespread across many industries for about two decades.