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Hello All:
To wrap up this thread, I think I found an American Honda Connector Guide page that seems correct for my 1999 Honda CRV.
As attached.
Now it remains to do the “pin work”.
Hi Gents:
Here is an example of the wiring code that I need for my 1999 CRV door jam connector.
The attached example is for a Civic.
Does anyonehave this type of information for my 1999 CRV
Much thanks……………….
Thanks DaFirnz.
I think the connector in the video is quite different and may have a very different secondary lock, but the principles do seem the same as you’ve written.
Also, I’m having trouble finding the C557 wiring code so I can put the broken wire back into the correct connector cavity.
If anyone can find the wiring code for connector C557 for a 1999 Honda CRV, please share it with me.
With thanks and appreciation………….
Thanks AngrySmileyFace.
I do have the Honda Factory Workshop Manual for my car and believe that I’m dealing with Connector C557
It may have that secondary lock. I’m bot yet sure.
Thanks for your replies guys.
I’m still worried about all the balance weight being inboard. You can achieve static balance that way, but not dynamic balance.
I think these wide tires especially need the dynamic balance. Take the chain off a bicycle some day and the pedals and cranks may have perfect static balance, but spin them fast and there is a great wobble because of the lateral imbalance. Same for tires.
But I’m getting out of my depth here. Certainly Eric’s video shows inboard and outboard weights being needed and installed.
Hoping for some more replies. Thanks.
Thanks for your replies guys.
I’m still worried about all the balance weight being inboard. You can achieve static balance that way, but not dynamic balance.
I think these wide tires especially need the dynamic balance. Take the chain off a bicycle some day and the pedals and cranks may have perfect static balance, but spin them fast and there is a great wobble because of the lateral imbalance. Same for tires.
But I’m getting out of my depth here. Certainly Eric’s video shows inboard and outboard weights being needed and installed.
Hoping for some more replies. Thanks.
Gents:
The leak prone nature of synthetic based versus mineral based engine oils has very little to do with viscosity and much to do with elastomer seal and gasketing materials compatibility. Elastomers can shrink or swell in response to the nature of the “solvent” or oil that they are exposed to. A swollen seal can be weak and tear and wear rapidly. A shrunken seal can grip less firmly and leak.
Seal elastomer compatibility is part of the oil formulator’s objectives. But that doesn’t mean they get it right all the time.
Gents:
The leak prone nature of synthetic based versus mineral based engine oils has very little to do with viscosity and much to do with elastomer seal and gasketing materials compatibility. Elastomers can shrink or swell in response to the nature of the “solvent” or oil that they are exposed to. A swollen seal can be weak and tear and wear rapidly. A shrunken seal can grip less firmly and leak.
Seal elastomer compatibility is part of the oil formulator’s objectives. But that doesn’t mean they get it right all the time.
Chemical synthesis is simply using chemistry to make a different molecule.
So here is a question.
Synthetic oils use components (molecules) that are chemically synthesized. There seems to be no doubt about this.
What about regular mineral oils? Are the molecules of this product chemically altered or are they just somehow taken from the crude oil without any alteration? Because if there is chemical alteration or synthesis, then these too are synthetic oils.
And all the synthetic versus mineral just might be advertizing.
Funny world we live in.