Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Crabby, no. Perhaps my perspective is different without ever really doing much in the import modification scene, but I found the mightcarmods review to be FoS from my perspective on it as a whole.
Who in their right mind would just slap on a CAI without a tune? Which is what they were “testing”. Tune for higher overall larger volume, usually requires a CAI that’s set specifically for that specific larger volume. Usually the canned tunes aren’t marketed to the stock intake, as the gain isn’t as notable, especially on initial throttle response. JMHO
But as always, still a good video for discussion.
Should the fluid never have been changed, I might start there. If it’s not making it to the floor, not losing fluid, then I’d assume either MC, or just condensation as the likely culprits. Changing the fluid is relatively easy and cheap, just takes a bit of time.
Should the fluid never have been changed, I might start there. If it’s not making it to the floor, not losing fluid, then I’d assume either MC, or just condensation as the likely culprits. Changing the fluid is relatively easy and cheap, just takes a bit of time.
Most will identify their sound system package with some kind of designation to identify it against their base offerings. What is listed on your sale ticket for the sound system, assuming you have it? Often it will be stamped on the radio itself in addition.
As an example, my mustang had a “shaker 1000” system, this indicated it had the basic 4 speaker setup, but in addition had 2 door panel woofers and a dual sub-woofer in the trunk.
You should be able to look up what “system” they installed to see if you have any in-line factory amplifiers and the like you need to account for, assuming it doesn’t say “rockford fosgate” somewhere in your face in the designation. I’d be surprised if it didn’t.
If you’re unsure, you can simply call a local Mitsubishi dealer and ask, giving them your VIN where they can look it up. Assuming their owner’s website doesn’t offer this already like FORD and other select manufacturers already do. They can usually give you pretty much every little thing that the car was sold with for it’s original sale..
Most will identify their sound system package with some kind of designation to identify it against their base offerings. What is listed on your sale ticket for the sound system, assuming you have it? Often it will be stamped on the radio itself in addition.
As an example, my mustang had a “shaker 1000” system, this indicated it had the basic 4 speaker setup, but in addition had 2 door panel woofers and a dual sub-woofer in the trunk.
You should be able to look up what “system” they installed to see if you have any in-line factory amplifiers and the like you need to account for, assuming it doesn’t say “rockford fosgate” somewhere in your face in the designation. I’d be surprised if it didn’t.
If you’re unsure, you can simply call a local Mitsubishi dealer and ask, giving them your VIN where they can look it up. Assuming their owner’s website doesn’t offer this already like FORD and other select manufacturers already do. They can usually give you pretty much every little thing that the car was sold with for it’s original sale..
Should it be showing it as energized on pin 30, I’d say you likely have a break in that line somewhere along the line. Since you jumped it, and it still didn’t have power (assuming you’re jumping the right relay), I’d say doubly-so.
Assuming Chevy Express 1500 with a 5.7L engine here, but you can verify if it differs here:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wdhttp://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=18584 (page 3)
Should it be showing it as energized on pin 30, I’d say you likely have a break in that line somewhere along the line. Since you jumped it, and it still didn’t have power (assuming you’re jumping the right relay), I’d say doubly-so.
Assuming Chevy Express 1500 with a 5.7L engine here, but you can verify if it differs here:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wdhttp://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=18584 (page 3)
With the symptoms mentioned, I’d probably check:
1. Relay, swap with another one in the engine bay fuse box that’s has the same connections.
2. Blower motor amplifier, usually mounted near to the blower itself.My suspect is 2 as no change is noted from different positions on the control dial, yes?
See here to locate your vehicle and get free diagrams:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/WdThe setups vary in terms of what’s used to drive the motor, but I believe a voltage driven amplifier is used in your case as I’ve seen this near exact symptom previously. I’m not certain though as you don’t mention what Buick model you have. You can check at the fan motor itself to read what it is being given voltage wise, and/or give it 12v manually (once disconnecting) to verify the motor itself.
With the symptoms mentioned, I’d probably check:
1. Relay, swap with another one in the engine bay fuse box that’s has the same connections.
2. Blower motor amplifier, usually mounted near to the blower itself.My suspect is 2 as no change is noted from different positions on the control dial, yes?
See here to locate your vehicle and get free diagrams:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/WdThe setups vary in terms of what’s used to drive the motor, but I believe a voltage driven amplifier is used in your case as I’ve seen this near exact symptom previously. I’m not certain though as you don’t mention what Buick model you have. You can check at the fan motor itself to read what it is being given voltage wise, and/or give it 12v manually (once disconnecting) to verify the motor itself.
Nope. A battery is a reserve pool for starting, accessories, and hopefully get you back home should your alternator/generator fail, nothing more. Going with the pool analogy, the straw sizes sucking up the water won’t change just because you have more water to use.
It could potentially have a negative impact on your MPG depending on if you’re discharging a larger amount than you were previously due to that larger pool, as the alternator/generator will need to be running at capacity more often creating perhaps a bit of extra drag on the engine over time. It will be negligible, but you definitely won’t get any improvement due to this.
I assume you mean 550CCA for the old one, and 650CCA for the new, which just means Cold Cranking Amps(could be across the pond there they stamp the actual capacity rather than CCA though, not sure). Meaning what the battery is capable of delivering at -18°C (0°F) for 30 seconds without dropping below 7.2 volts. It is a measure of cranking power for starting, and an indicator, but not a true measurement of capacity.
references:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_capacity
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_cca_cold_cranking_amp
http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.htmlNope. A battery is a reserve pool for starting, accessories, and hopefully get you back home should your alternator/generator fail, nothing more. Going with the pool analogy, the straw sizes sucking up the water won’t change just because you have more water to use.
It could potentially have a negative impact on your MPG depending on if you’re discharging a larger amount than you were previously due to that larger pool, as the alternator/generator will need to be running at capacity more often creating perhaps a bit of extra drag on the engine over time. It will be negligible, but you definitely won’t get any improvement due to this.
I assume you mean 550CCA for the old one, and 650CCA for the new, which just means Cold Cranking Amps(could be across the pond there they stamp the actual capacity rather than CCA though, not sure). Meaning what the battery is capable of delivering at -18°C (0°F) for 30 seconds without dropping below 7.2 volts. It is a measure of cranking power for starting, and an indicator, but not a true measurement of capacity.
references:
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_capacity
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_cca_cold_cranking_amp
http://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/battery-basics.htmlCan’t speak for anyone else, but I have no issue with it; not sure why anyone would bunch up their underwear on it or other this product over others personal advertisements. I haven’t seen much of that on comments…
Make it from what you can if you’re ok with whatever it is you’re being asked to plug I say. Bob Vila it up, and damn the PBS execs. 😉 Wish we were all so lucky, and assuming they’re making it sweet enough these kinds of offers won’t be around all the time.
Can’t speak for anyone else, but I have no issue with it; not sure why anyone would bunch up their underwear on it or other this product over others personal advertisements. I haven’t seen much of that on comments…
Make it from what you can if you’re ok with whatever it is you’re being asked to plug I say. Bob Vila it up, and damn the PBS execs. 😉 Wish we were all so lucky, and assuming they’re making it sweet enough these kinds of offers won’t be around all the time.