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I’m glad to see the power kit comes with a foam pad to dissipate heat. A coat of paint sealant will work fine for UV protectant after sanding and polishing lenses.
I’m glad to see the power kit comes with a foam pad to dissipate heat. A coat of paint sealant will work fine for UV protectant after sanding and polishing lenses.
It is very hard to not tell these people where to go, most times they are just unhappy with their lives and are looking for someone to unload on, other times they have been “oversold” by whomever they bought the car from and think they can put a quarter million miles on it without expense. One of the best places I ever worked at had what they called “the speech” that they gave to all new and used vehicle buyers, it involved a tour of the service area and a comprehensive explanation of pricing and service expectations on the part of the buyer and seller. That place also worked with the techs when slob jobs came in so nobody lost their shirt.
It is very hard to not tell these people where to go, most times they are just unhappy with their lives and are looking for someone to unload on, other times they have been “oversold” by whomever they bought the car from and think they can put a quarter million miles on it without expense. One of the best places I ever worked at had what they called “the speech” that they gave to all new and used vehicle buyers, it involved a tour of the service area and a comprehensive explanation of pricing and service expectations on the part of the buyer and seller. That place also worked with the techs when slob jobs came in so nobody lost their shirt.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=115594]I never got the feel for hand held dressing of twist bits. I know what I’m supposed to do in theory, but I can’t execute well. And my grinding wheel faces are not the best either. So this tool interested me.
But cut rate is secondary in importance to my machining operations where I want a reasonably precise hole diameter. A poorly sharpened twist bit will drill an oversize hole. It would have been interested to measure the hole’s diameters. Or at least insert the bit’s shank to check it play or wobble in the hole.[/quote]
Great point, I think for 99 percent of drilling a sharpened drill will do just fine. I have had only a few situations when fabricating parts where things had to be very precise and those go to the drill press or get done on the lathe with my “do not touch under penalty of death” set of bits.
[quote=”Rereonehundred” post=115594]I never got the feel for hand held dressing of twist bits. I know what I’m supposed to do in theory, but I can’t execute well. And my grinding wheel faces are not the best either. So this tool interested me.
But cut rate is secondary in importance to my machining operations where I want a reasonably precise hole diameter. A poorly sharpened twist bit will drill an oversize hole. It would have been interested to measure the hole’s diameters. Or at least insert the bit’s shank to check it play or wobble in the hole.[/quote]
Great point, I think for 99 percent of drilling a sharpened drill will do just fine. I have had only a few situations when fabricating parts where things had to be very precise and those go to the drill press or get done on the lathe with my “do not touch under penalty of death” set of bits.
Thanks for the review, I am now motivated to purchase one of those and tackle the drawer full of dull bits I have collected over the last 10 years and could not bring myself to toss. I used to bring them to my dad who was a retired aircraft engineer, he could just fix them using a grinder and his hands, even well into his 80’s he could edge a bit that would cut like crazy. He aimed for 137 degrees and would split them, he said that if a bit walked on an aluminum panel of a plane the whole panel had to be scrapped.
Thanks for the review, I am now motivated to purchase one of those and tackle the drawer full of dull bits I have collected over the last 10 years and could not bring myself to toss. I used to bring them to my dad who was a retired aircraft engineer, he could just fix them using a grinder and his hands, even well into his 80’s he could edge a bit that would cut like crazy. He aimed for 137 degrees and would split them, he said that if a bit walked on an aluminum panel of a plane the whole panel had to be scrapped.
Oil or don’t oil/grease/anti seize the way that allows you to sleep at night but the most important thing on lug nuts is a soft stop to proper torque and proper tightening pattern. Eric has a great video on this.
Oil or don’t oil/grease/anti seize the way that allows you to sleep at night but the most important thing on lug nuts is a soft stop to proper torque and proper tightening pattern. Eric has a great video on this.
Ok, so now that you bought the car here are some things to do for sure…head on down to your local parts store and purchase a set of WINTER wiper blades, have them installed for free while you are there, next have them do a free battery/ charging and coolant test. I’m not sure what places you have by you but most are happy to do those in hopes of more sales. After addressing the above I would do an oil and filter change, plugs, air filter and PVC valve. Normal oil should suffice but add some type of friction reducer, preferably with boron in it (due to mileage). Next I would suggest removing the lug nuts and giving them a light coat of oil, the time to find out the last owner cranked them with a nuclear powered impact gun is not on the side of an icy road with a flat. Next proceed to check the jack and give the “screw” part a light coat of oil, now is also a good time for checking the brakes and paying special attention to the slides, making sure they are free and the pads are wearing evenly. Eric has some great videos on this. Because the car is new to you, I would park it in a clean area and check for any drips that appear over the course of a week, better to address problems now then in a blizzard. I would consider changing the brake fluid too (Eric has a good video) As others have mentioned, winter tires are a good idea and affordable premounted packages are a good idea. Finally I would do a complete glass cleaning, inside and out, clean windows help with winter glare and ice will not stick as well to a properly treated window. We get a ton of snow and ice here and I do the following to all our windows (including the plow trucks) First I wash the vehicle as normal and when still wet I use a single edge razor to shave the windows, you will be amazed at the microscopic gunk you will feel being removed. Next I wipe down the window using a quality glass cleaner and dry microfiber towel and follow this up with glass polish and RainEx, sometimes I skip the RainEx and just use car wax. The razor will not scratch if you wash the car first and do it wet.
