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I understand now and get the pros and cons of things. When I was younger no one even wore seat belts and an airbag was what you called your mother in law when she was not around. I still have a couple trucks with no airbags and they do fine around town but on the freeway I like to have every available safety device.
I have to ask, why would you disable something that could save your life? I’m also pretty confident that if you were injured due to lack of a factory installed safety device you might have some insurance payment issues. Not looking to argue, just curious of your motivations.
I have to ask, why would you disable something that could save your life? I’m also pretty confident that if you were injured due to lack of a factory installed safety device you might have some insurance payment issues. Not looking to argue, just curious of your motivations.
Tires that old even if not driven a lot tend to dry out and micrcrack, I would have all 4 replaced ASAP . Here in NY we have to replace our equipment trailer tires about every two years because if you get caught at a DOT check with even the slightest dry crack they write you a ticket that carries a painful fine. Sealing to those aluminum rims might be a tall order for most shops and with the slime in there they are not going to be happy, I would break them down myself and clean, sand and polish them before I took them in or just sell them as is on Craigslist and buy a premounted and balanced package, in some cases the rim cost only adds $150 to the total price as long as you keep it basic.
Tires that old even if not driven a lot tend to dry out and micrcrack, I would have all 4 replaced ASAP . Here in NY we have to replace our equipment trailer tires about every two years because if you get caught at a DOT check with even the slightest dry crack they write you a ticket that carries a painful fine. Sealing to those aluminum rims might be a tall order for most shops and with the slime in there they are not going to be happy, I would break them down myself and clean, sand and polish them before I took them in or just sell them as is on Craigslist and buy a premounted and balanced package, in some cases the rim cost only adds $150 to the total price as long as you keep it basic.
This “height adjustment” switch, are you referring to the slide that moves the brake and gas pedal back and forth like some Ford Taurus models had in early 2000? If so it is probably a fuse.
This “height adjustment” switch, are you referring to the slide that moves the brake and gas pedal back and forth like some Ford Taurus models had in early 2000? If so it is probably a fuse.
You absolutely cannot run that piston, that one is now a paperweight. Under microscopic magnification you would likely see the beginnings of cracks that will finish off your engine if that piston stays in use for a few more heat cycles.
You absolutely cannot run that piston, that one is now a paperweight. Under microscopic magnification you would likely see the beginnings of cracks that will finish off your engine if that piston stays in use for a few more heat cycles.
I cannot speak about other shops but places I have worked handled it strictly based on the individual situation. Something small like a brake hose was usually “pain spread around” the customer usually paid the bulk of it, the shop discounted the work and then tried to work their parts supplier for additional discounts. I am not saying this was the best solution because if a customer sees a pattern develop where what they are quoted verses what they pay…they tend to go elsewhere. I also know a certain shop that is constantly beating up their parts suppliers and they have been cut off the “platinum” pricing tier by at least one local supplier. Most big dealers have an account where they can write off the shop disasters as customer courtesy and make the mess go away. The best solution is really not efficient for the shop, that is to have a tech actually look at the job before the quote is given and make provisions in the quote for possible pitfalls.
I cannot speak about other shops but places I have worked handled it strictly based on the individual situation. Something small like a brake hose was usually “pain spread around” the customer usually paid the bulk of it, the shop discounted the work and then tried to work their parts supplier for additional discounts. I am not saying this was the best solution because if a customer sees a pattern develop where what they are quoted verses what they pay…they tend to go elsewhere. I also know a certain shop that is constantly beating up their parts suppliers and they have been cut off the “platinum” pricing tier by at least one local supplier. Most big dealers have an account where they can write off the shop disasters as customer courtesy and make the mess go away. The best solution is really not efficient for the shop, that is to have a tech actually look at the job before the quote is given and make provisions in the quote for possible pitfalls.
You have two potential things keeping you from a firmer pedal, first as others have said you probably have a bit of air in the lines, I would find a wet surface and do a few hard stops to activate the ABS then re bleed brakes. Secondly you sanded the pads and are trying to bed them to glazed rotors, at the minimum I would rough up the rotors with a brake rotor honing stone. I usually at least “cheat cut” the rotors on the brake lathe taking next to nothing off and roughing them up to give a better bedding surface. I posted before about looking at surfaces with a jeweler eye, if you look at a glazed verses cut rotor the difference is obvious as to gripping ability, it is like a bald tire verses a new one.
You have two potential things keeping you from a firmer pedal, first as others have said you probably have a bit of air in the lines, I would find a wet surface and do a few hard stops to activate the ABS then re bleed brakes. Secondly you sanded the pads and are trying to bed them to glazed rotors, at the minimum I would rough up the rotors with a brake rotor honing stone. I usually at least “cheat cut” the rotors on the brake lathe taking next to nothing off and roughing them up to give a better bedding surface. I posted before about looking at surfaces with a jeweler eye, if you look at a glazed verses cut rotor the difference is obvious as to gripping ability, it is like a bald tire verses a new one.