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Sounds like vacuum issue, to rule out electrical you could pull the fuse and try some controlled stops in a safe area, think it is a 15 amp fuse located in the box lower right corner below the flasher. Check all your grounding straps as well.
Sounds like vacuum issue, to rule out electrical you could pull the fuse and try some controlled stops in a safe area, think it is a 15 amp fuse located in the box lower right corner below the flasher. Check all your grounding straps as well.
It certainly could have but any stresses on the system could be relaxed by adjusting other areas of the system, I would just give it a good look over and make sure their are no obvious stress points that are causing undue fatigue on that spring assembly.
It certainly could have but any stresses on the system could be relaxed by adjusting other areas of the system, I would just give it a good look over and make sure their are no obvious stress points that are causing undue fatigue on that spring assembly.
I have had cars in here that got new exhaust systems and the hangers etc were not replaced due to budget or part availability constraints. Your exhaust could also be binding due to incorrect installation, I did one over the summer on a Taurus that a guy had taken elsewhere and the fix was to loosen all the fasteners and “relax” the system and retighten. When installing an exhaust system all parts have to be hand tightened (think thumb ratchet) then adjusted to not bind and then tightened to spec.
I have had cars in here that got new exhaust systems and the hangers etc were not replaced due to budget or part availability constraints. Your exhaust could also be binding due to incorrect installation, I did one over the summer on a Taurus that a guy had taken elsewhere and the fix was to loosen all the fasteners and “relax” the system and retighten. When installing an exhaust system all parts have to be hand tightened (think thumb ratchet) then adjusted to not bind and then tightened to spec.
I do all of my work by myself so changing engines can be a chore at times, I have never bolted a torque converter to a flex plate before having the bell housing secure, doing so can stress the front transmission seal and cause leaks.
As far as tips I would say that getting the transmission at the highest upward angle to meet the engine block seems to work for me, I also use long bolts and nuts from my gear puller set in the bell housing to act as alignment points, once things are lined up and a couple bolts are started they can be backed off and the nut removed before snugging things up, a long handled pry bar helps to muscle things around as well, just be careful what you are using as a leverage point. Finally, having a good solid hoist with an adjustable engine leveler is an absolute if working by yourself.I do all of my work by myself so changing engines can be a chore at times, I have never bolted a torque converter to a flex plate before having the bell housing secure, doing so can stress the front transmission seal and cause leaks.
As far as tips I would say that getting the transmission at the highest upward angle to meet the engine block seems to work for me, I also use long bolts and nuts from my gear puller set in the bell housing to act as alignment points, once things are lined up and a couple bolts are started they can be backed off and the nut removed before snugging things up, a long handled pry bar helps to muscle things around as well, just be careful what you are using as a leverage point. Finally, having a good solid hoist with an adjustable engine leveler is an absolute if working by yourself.Any thicker long lasting product like anti seize should do the trick. I would inspect the part first making sure it is not about to wear thru.
Any thicker long lasting product like anti seize should do the trick. I would inspect the part first making sure it is not about to wear thru.
As you car runs everything is not in perfect balance and vibration is created, automotive manufacturers have tried for years to “balance out” as many vibrations as possible thru the use of everything from counterweights to balance shafts. Everything else has to be “managed” thru the use of soft motor mounts and a sprung exhaust system. The friction points on these systems experience very harsh conditions, from temperature extremes to moisture and everything else that hits the bottom of the vehicle. What you experienced was a dry condition that caused a high frequency vibration at a specific rpm. I would examine the part for wear and replace as necessary, the lube may just be a temporary fix.
As you car runs everything is not in perfect balance and vibration is created, automotive manufacturers have tried for years to “balance out” as many vibrations as possible thru the use of everything from counterweights to balance shafts. Everything else has to be “managed” thru the use of soft motor mounts and a sprung exhaust system. The friction points on these systems experience very harsh conditions, from temperature extremes to moisture and everything else that hits the bottom of the vehicle. What you experienced was a dry condition that caused a high frequency vibration at a specific rpm. I would examine the part for wear and replace as necessary, the lube may just be a temporary fix.