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[quote=”johnbkobb” post=33634][quote=”spelunkerd” post=33632]
I think I would take it to a body shop and see what they tell you needs to be done. Have them give you a detailed estimate of what needs to be done and what they would charge. Then make the decision on whether to repair it yourself or not.
John, that’s good advice. I sometimes feel a little guilty when I do that because it’s basically asking a pro for free advice. But with what body shops charge, I’m sure the free quotations are built into the price that insured customers pay. And whenever I ask a pro for advice I seriously am considering asking them to do it.[/quote]
Unless you know how to do the repair properly “safety” of you and others is in play here and properly repairing this is a must before it is to be considered road worthy.[/quote]
+1 I gotta agree, i wouldn’t do this repair even though i know the steps and what needs to be done. My welding skills are not at a level where i can say i can do something like this yet.
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=33634][quote=”spelunkerd” post=33632]
I think I would take it to a body shop and see what they tell you needs to be done. Have them give you a detailed estimate of what needs to be done and what they would charge. Then make the decision on whether to repair it yourself or not.
John, that’s good advice. I sometimes feel a little guilty when I do that because it’s basically asking a pro for free advice. But with what body shops charge, I’m sure the free quotations are built into the price that insured customers pay. And whenever I ask a pro for advice I seriously am considering asking them to do it.[/quote]
Unless you know how to do the repair properly “safety” of you and others is in play here and properly repairing this is a must before it is to be considered road worthy.[/quote]
+1 I gotta agree, i wouldn’t do this repair even though i know the steps and what needs to be done. My welding skills are not at a level where i can say i can do something like this yet.
[quote=”ohemgeeman” post=33474][quote=”Mishakol129″ post=33472][quote=”ohemgeeman” post=33469][quote=”Mishakol129″ post=33467][quote=”ohemgeeman” post=33465]I took it to the dealer and asked how much it would cost to fix the oil pan thing and they were trying to charge me 250$, which to me sounds ridiculous, i just don’t know any mechanics around my area that are trustworthy.[/quote]
That’s not such a bad price if they do everything right. Was that just for the gasket right? It took me 4 hours to put mine on.
Like I said though, make sure where the leak is coming from. If you are low on cash you can do 2 things; check and see exactly HOW MUCH oil you are losing from the leak and see how long you can go without doing the job (see if you can prolong); or 2, take the liberty of doing the job yourself.
Where do you live man, its 2 AM where I am now.[/quote]
I’m in southern California, i just bought this car a week ago, i just got my license a week ago, i am only 18 and i am just now finding out all these costs, i have a decent paying job its just, i have other things i need to pay for, and they wanted 105$ to find where the leak was(That is just a base price) and then somewhere around 250$ to fix it depending on how to fix it, not to mention thats not my only problem, the problem with my spark plugs i kinda was able to fix myself, i guess you need to apply a little pressure to get the spark plug wires into the wells so they “snap in” i guess, sorry if that seemed like a stupid thing not to know, but my engine fires up just fine and doesn’t shake, but there is still the oil leak and oil on the ends of the rubber wires.[/quote]Wow, you’re very young. I am 22. Instead of paying 105$ for them to find the leak, buy some jack stands, a jack, and a manual for your vehicle. I recommend getting a Haynes manual, you can find them at the auto parts store. OR, even better and for free, you can download the OFFICIAL Honda manual for your model. All you need now is a working printer and with the right tools you can fix anything on your car.
Here is the link:
http://www.pdfasal.com/auto/1994-1997-honda-accord-service-manual.html
To download it, you want to scroll down to where it says “download”, then right click on on the file and select “save link as”. Then allow the 49 MB file to download.
Open it up and you will be filled with great understanding about your vehicle. No repair will be impossible with the right tools. It lays it out with diagrams so it doesn’t seem hard at all. Its so easy with the official manual.[/quote]
I have the original manual[/quote]
A service manual?
A service manual and an owners manual are two different things, just letting you know if you did not know.[quote=”ohemgeeman” post=33474][quote=”Mishakol129″ post=33472][quote=”ohemgeeman” post=33469][quote=”Mishakol129″ post=33467][quote=”ohemgeeman” post=33465]I took it to the dealer and asked how much it would cost to fix the oil pan thing and they were trying to charge me 250$, which to me sounds ridiculous, i just don’t know any mechanics around my area that are trustworthy.[/quote]
That’s not such a bad price if they do everything right. Was that just for the gasket right? It took me 4 hours to put mine on.
Like I said though, make sure where the leak is coming from. If you are low on cash you can do 2 things; check and see exactly HOW MUCH oil you are losing from the leak and see how long you can go without doing the job (see if you can prolong); or 2, take the liberty of doing the job yourself.
Where do you live man, its 2 AM where I am now.[/quote]
I’m in southern California, i just bought this car a week ago, i just got my license a week ago, i am only 18 and i am just now finding out all these costs, i have a decent paying job its just, i have other things i need to pay for, and they wanted 105$ to find where the leak was(That is just a base price) and then somewhere around 250$ to fix it depending on how to fix it, not to mention thats not my only problem, the problem with my spark plugs i kinda was able to fix myself, i guess you need to apply a little pressure to get the spark plug wires into the wells so they “snap in” i guess, sorry if that seemed like a stupid thing not to know, but my engine fires up just fine and doesn’t shake, but there is still the oil leak and oil on the ends of the rubber wires.[/quote]Wow, you’re very young. I am 22. Instead of paying 105$ for them to find the leak, buy some jack stands, a jack, and a manual for your vehicle. I recommend getting a Haynes manual, you can find them at the auto parts store. OR, even better and for free, you can download the OFFICIAL Honda manual for your model. All you need now is a working printer and with the right tools you can fix anything on your car.
Here is the link:
http://www.pdfasal.com/auto/1994-1997-honda-accord-service-manual.html
To download it, you want to scroll down to where it says “download”, then right click on on the file and select “save link as”. Then allow the 49 MB file to download.
Open it up and you will be filled with great understanding about your vehicle. No repair will be impossible with the right tools. It lays it out with diagrams so it doesn’t seem hard at all. Its so easy with the official manual.[/quote]
I have the original manual[/quote]
A service manual?
A service manual and an owners manual are two different things, just letting you know if you did not know.The way i find leaks is a lot faster then cleaning the engine and driving for awhile.
But it’s so hard to explain, it makes me wish i video taped my instructor when he taught me how. Maybe next time i am leak hunting i will video tape how i do it.The way i find leaks is a lot faster then cleaning the engine and driving for awhile.
But it’s so hard to explain, it makes me wish i video taped my instructor when he taught me how. Maybe next time i am leak hunting i will video tape how i do it.[quote=”strokermk4″ post=33348]Thank you for the answers, but I already said that I cleaned the tank and uel pump 3 times, fuel pump was changed a year ago it can not be failing. The tanks bottom gets covered in like melted rubbery stuff. I need to clean the tank for the 4th time this weekend but still can’t figure out where it comes from.[/quote]
Make me want to say “are you sure you are cleaning it well enough?”, but i will lay of the blame.
When you clean out the tank every time does there happen to be water in the tank, you’ll be able to tell since the water will want to sink to the bottom of the diesel, and is a different colour.
Do you use the same place to fill up? Maybe their diesel has a lot of particulates in it, or water, or something else wrong with it. I’ve seen it happen twice. A station in a town called Hope B.C(where Rambo First Blood was filmed) had a place that when the gas was test it was 40%+ water. So it does happen. (by the way this isn’t likely)
Do you leave the tank cap off a lot?
Are you even sure its the first stage fuel pump?
If they are only lasting two weeks i would do a lot of digging in these area to find the real problem.
[quote=”strokermk4″ post=33348]Thank you for the answers, but I already said that I cleaned the tank and uel pump 3 times, fuel pump was changed a year ago it can not be failing. The tanks bottom gets covered in like melted rubbery stuff. I need to clean the tank for the 4th time this weekend but still can’t figure out where it comes from.[/quote]
Make me want to say “are you sure you are cleaning it well enough?”, but i will lay of the blame.
When you clean out the tank every time does there happen to be water in the tank, you’ll be able to tell since the water will want to sink to the bottom of the diesel, and is a different colour.
Do you use the same place to fill up? Maybe their diesel has a lot of particulates in it, or water, or something else wrong with it. I’ve seen it happen twice. A station in a town called Hope B.C(where Rambo First Blood was filmed) had a place that when the gas was test it was 40%+ water. So it does happen. (by the way this isn’t likely)
Do you leave the tank cap off a lot?
Are you even sure its the first stage fuel pump?
If they are only lasting two weeks i would do a lot of digging in these area to find the real problem.
[quote=”Mishakol129″ post=33339]
Yeah bearing clearances, that’s what the people on the Honda forum were saying. I did get the pressure tester from Harbor Freight (16.99 with coupon) but haven’t used it yet because its a NPT thread instead of the Honda BPT (British Pipe Thread). But I read on a forum that you can use NPT on a BPT, is this true Eric?
[/quote]
No. The angles across the flanks of the threads are different, so they wouldn’t seal right and could cause damage to the threads in the block.
Plus its BSPT, British Standard Pipe Thread.[quote=”Mishakol129″ post=33339]
Yeah bearing clearances, that’s what the people on the Honda forum were saying. I did get the pressure tester from Harbor Freight (16.99 with coupon) but haven’t used it yet because its a NPT thread instead of the Honda BPT (British Pipe Thread). But I read on a forum that you can use NPT on a BPT, is this true Eric?
[/quote]
No. The angles across the flanks of the threads are different, so they wouldn’t seal right and could cause damage to the threads in the block.
Plus its BSPT, British Standard Pipe Thread.To your first question, this is fairly normal. I bet the oil you drain from the pan would be the same colour if you dipped the dip stick in it and look at the colour.
The second, it is normal for short trips and constant idling… because the engine rarely gets up to operating temp. This means the gaps in the engine are not taken up by expansion and between the piston and cylinder wall, combustion gases are allowed to pass by and into the crankcase. This is what gives you the the smell of gas in the oil. It’s not a major problem, i wouldn’t get it on your hands a lot and don’t forget to wash it off…
To fix it, longer trips, allowing the engine to get up to operating temp.
To your first question, this is fairly normal. I bet the oil you drain from the pan would be the same colour if you dipped the dip stick in it and look at the colour.
The second, it is normal for short trips and constant idling… because the engine rarely gets up to operating temp. This means the gaps in the engine are not taken up by expansion and between the piston and cylinder wall, combustion gases are allowed to pass by and into the crankcase. This is what gives you the the smell of gas in the oil. It’s not a major problem, i wouldn’t get it on your hands a lot and don’t forget to wash it off…
To fix it, longer trips, allowing the engine to get up to operating temp.
[quote=”skim3544″ post=33286]Not sure what you mean by pump getting clogged up but if your pump isn’t getting clean fuel you may need to flush the fuel tank. usually not a problem for most diesel cars, than again it is VW – they use really poor quality parts.[/quote]
+1 Agreed.
Diesel engines like clean diesel, and if your tank is dirty and you keep running it in dirty diesel you will just keep creating problems for your self.
Clean the tank, and clean it good.
How are you clean the screen and unclogging the fuel pump?[quote=”skim3544″ post=33286]Not sure what you mean by pump getting clogged up but if your pump isn’t getting clean fuel you may need to flush the fuel tank. usually not a problem for most diesel cars, than again it is VW – they use really poor quality parts.[/quote]
+1 Agreed.
Diesel engines like clean diesel, and if your tank is dirty and you keep running it in dirty diesel you will just keep creating problems for your self.
Clean the tank, and clean it good.
How are you clean the screen and unclogging the fuel pump?