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[quote=”TNT” post=152291] Proper disposal of waste products from servicing our cars also is a factor we can control..[/quote]
As “CarGuys” (and Girls) this is something we need to pay more attention to. The EPA estimates that home oil changes result in almost 200 million gallons of motor oil being dumped into the environment each year. Thats four times as much as in the Exxon Valdez spill.. And if you consider that each gallon of spilled motor oil has the potential to pollute a million gallons of groundwater, lakes or rivers -its a huge problem.
Professional technicians and shops generally handle used oil and other chemicals properly and responsibly. Many DIY’ers don’t. We – as a community – need to change that. Eric, in his oil change videos, has mentioned proper disposal of used oil. But IMHO its a message that can’t get out enough.
BTW: “Hoarding” used motor oil in plastic jugs in your garage or basement isn’t a sensible option either. Firefighters dread dealing with garage fires for precisely this reason.
As “CarGuys” we can do our bit to keep the environment cleaner. A well maintained vehicle doesn’t drip oil or other fluids. A properly serviced engine minimizes pollution and maximizes fuel efficiency. And properly disposed of motor oil and other vehicle fluids keep our highways and waterways clean and safe for everyone.
I can see there are two sides to every issue.
But from personal experience, I really wish my state (Wisconsin) had a more comprehensive vehicle safety inspection program in place. We have emissions testing in a couple of countries (plug in an OBD port and check for codes) – but nothing safety related.
A couple of years ago a friend of mine was kind enough to give me a ride to the airport. Roughly twenty miles from my house. And I don’t think I’ve ever been so legitimately scared in my life. The brakes on his car (a 1994 Buick) were terrifying. Slowing for traffic lights and stop signs brought on a juddering vibration; followed by a high-pitched squeal. My friend (the driver) obviously knew his brakes were shot – because he kept an inordinate stopping distance. There were a host of other mechanical issues with this vehicle: shot exhaust and suspension; coolant and oil leaks; dying electrical system; headlights that were dim and wiper blades that hadn’t been changed since the Clinton administration.
This guy was/is my friend. And I tried – as gently as possible – to suggest he was risking his life (and that of other people) driving the car in that condition. I even offered to help him fix the brakes in my garage (he has an apartment, parking outside) – to no avail. Eventually that car died and he replaced it with one in slightly better condition. But even this vehicle is slowly developing potentially lethal faults.
An annual, or bi-annual safety inspection might cost some people a few extra dollars. But it would keep a fair number of deathtraps off the roads.
Like in any market, prices are largely determined through supply and demand. And when it comes to trucks, there are a few differences from the general used car market.
The first of which is this: In most cases a truck – of pretty much whatever description – can be used to help someone make their living in a way that most cars can’t. If you want to set up as a plumber; or a landscaper; a carpenter; an electrician; or a home remodeler – you kind of need a truck of some kind. To haul sheets of plywood or sheetrock. Carry your lawnmowers or pick up boxes of parts at the salvage yard.
Most used cars don’t have that utility. If you want to set up as a Uber driver – you are limited to at least a very fresh late-model sedan. A beat-up 2004 Acura Vigor has limited uses. You can’t haul plywood with it. You can’t use it as a taxicab. Its good for basic transportation, and in that role its questionable reliability cuts into its value. A car that’ll get you to your job reliably 95% of the time is more of a liability than anything.
The other factor is supply. And truck owners tend to hold onto their vehicles longer than people hold onto cars. The generally heavier-duty engines, transmissions, suspensions and bodies of trucks makes this possible. Its only when the cost of repairs greatly exceeds the value of the vehicle that many truck owners put them up for sale. And even in somewhat dilapidated condition – with broken 4WD systems and rusted out brake drums – a beaten up old truck still has an inherent value as a cargo hauler, even if used only sporadically, rather than as a daily driver.
Another great video, Eric!
A “parts car” is a useful thing to have around. But – as you said – this one seems to bring up more questions than it answers.
Keeping a “parts car” comes at a cost. At the very least you need a place to park it. There may be costs involved with insuring and registering it. And if you want to keep it running, you’ll need to keep the battery charged and the tires inflated.
You’ve got some options with this vehicle.
1) You could clean it up. Repair the obvious cosmetic issues (the drooping front air deflector trim.) Pop a new muffler on the back. And sell it privately and pocket a decent profit. Whats the top end on a rough-looking, but running, Acura Vigor of that vintage? Maybe $1000 or so. Put a few hundred dollars in the Fairmont budget. Or make an extra payment on that nice van Mrs CarGuy is driving around in.
2) You could keep it as a donor vehicle for your existing Vigor. But this seems to have somewhat limited upside. You don’t want to swap the engine and transmission. Swapping body panels would be a lot of work, with limited payback. You prefer the leather interior of your existing car. At best – my suggestion would be to swap the nicer wheels on the new Vigor with the ones on your present car. A buyer of a $1000 runner isn’t going to notice the difference. It would also be a chance to show how to properly patch a leaking tire, and to put your tire-mounting machine to good work.
3) You could “part it out”: Advertising and selling various parts to owners of other Vigors who need inexpensive parts to keep their ride running. This has probably the greatest opportunity for profit. A working engine and transmission alone would be worth several hundred dollars to the right buyer.
But that’s also a lengthy process. It could potentially take years to get the last dollar out of the car. During which time you’ve got to inventory and store the slowly deteriorating carcass. And I’m not sure you want to turn into “Eric the PartsGuy” – that doesn’t seem like thats you business.
My recommendation would be to put a couple hours fixing the obvious defects on the new Vigor. And make a video showing you successfully selling it on for a modest profit.
Thanks.
Actually, I’m not sure I really need help on this one. At least not yet!
I’ve built a couple of these before. One for my 1999 Saab (don’t miss that car at all…) – and one for my 2002 Harley V-Rod. It was the motorcycle that first got me interested in this sort of project. Its pretty inconvenient having to reach into a jacket pocket for a key-fob opener, and difficult to hit the right button with fingers wrapped in heavy leather gloves.
Right now I’m trying to pick out the right mix of components for the voltage regulator. I’ll typically cannibalize an old cell-phone charger for this, though that does involve swapping one of the resistors in order to get the resulting output voltage to 3.5. Going this method does complicate the project, since I also need to locate a source of Accessory 12V under the hood. But it will probably be worth it in doing away with bi-annual battery changes.
Cannibalization of old electronics is really the secret of this sort of project. An old cell phone charger can be had for free, or a couple of dollars at a thrift store. A key fob garage door controller about is about $12. A few dollars more for a water-tight plastic project box, a little wire, solder, and shrink-tube – and I should be good to go. If I built the thing from scratch using brand new components it would cost quite a lot more – and would require me to design and special order a custom PCB. Reusing old junk just requires lookup of circuit diagrams and some close work with a multimeter to identify the right bits.
The real “Variable” for me in this project is finding the right switch to replace the blank in my dash. I think some models of Hyundai Sonata were equipped with fog lights, which my car doesn’t have. Once I’ve confirmed that, and taken a look at the type of switch – then I’ll know whether or not to proceed with the project or not.
[quote=”MDK22″ post=151628]Here is a link to the Technical Data Sheet aka (TDS) for Permatex Anti-seize and Permatex does not recommend use on lug nuts per overtorquing.[/quote]
Thanks for the links.
The issue of lug nut and bolts seizing in place is surprisingly complicated for a topic that has been troubling auto technicians for well over a hundred years. In very simple terms, there just aren’t any quick and easy ways of preventing this from occurring to wheels and fasteners that are allowed to set in place over an extended period of time.
The reality is that the rim; the hub; the wheel studs, the brake rotor or drum; and the lug nuts themselves are all fabricated from different metals. The preload of the fasteners places them into a very tight mechanical and electrical connection. And they operate in an environment where they come into contact with water contaminated with various salts – the very definition of an ideal electrolyte. It is all but inevitable that galvanic corrosion should take place.
The best we can do in such circumstances is manage the problem. It is not practical to place a physical barrier, such as paint or coatings, on the mating surfaces of the wheel components. Anti-seize and grease compounds risk a dangerous over-torque condition.
So it seems the only practical means of avoiding lug nuts seized to the studs; rims seized to the rotor; or rotors seized to the hub is regular removal, inspection, cleaning, thread-chasing (where necessary), and re-installation by mechanics, both DIY and professional. Tires should be rotated according to schedule, and brakes inspected and serviced on a regular basis. Your car – and your knuckles – will thank you in the long run.
[quote=”BigDanIL279″ post=151540][
I have run K&N filters in the stock air box in my last three vehicles and it is difficult to determine if a 5HP gain is true, but on average maybe a 1 or 2 MPG increase over the stock filter depending upon the driving style..[/quote]That may very well be true about the filter that cleans the air going into the engine. But I question whether its possible to justify paying five times as much money for a filter that cleans the air going into the passenger compartment.
K&N is a trusted, high-quality brand of filters. But even the best companies sometimes test our credulity- and our pocketbooks.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=151529]What I find interesting is that people are still hating on the video even though the ‘dangerous practice’ has been removed.
Welcome to the world I work in. :)[/quote]
I don’t get the negativity. If you’d injured a child – that would be worth hating. If you’d injured a cute kitten – that would get people into a frenzy. If you’d injured yourself – well, that would probably make somebody’s “Funny Internet Clip of the Week” show.
People are strange.
[quote=”Hanneman” post=151468]The Fresh Breeze filter contains charcoal or activated carbon to remove odors in addition to particulates. [/quote]
Thats interesting to know.
I’ll admit – I don’t often drive through areas with a lot of stink in the air. But they certainly exist. I’ve known people who live downwind of some of those industrial-size pig farms in Iowa, and they can give off some eye-watering bad reek when conditions are just right. The worst I ever encounter is the odd whiff from a fast-food joint whose deep fryers are overdue for an oil change.
My mom lives in an agricultural area where farmers quite often spread cattle manure over their fields. And more than a few times you get whacked in the face with a wave of the pungent and unmistakable aroma of fresh cow poop. I’ll have to see if Fram makes a “Fresh Breeze” filter that will fit her BMW. Because I’ll guarantee you – whatever the villains at the BMW dealership put in her car a) costs a fortune and b) doesn’t do diddly at cutting down on odors.
Just a little follow up:
After reading the helpful replies, I started researching the correct part for my Sonata.Which is where things got interesting.
Basically I’ve got three options: I can buy an STP brand filter for seven and a half bucks. I can buy the Fram “FreshBreeze” cabin filter for $25 or so. Or I can go all-out and get the K&N “High Performance” cabin air filter for a whopping $44.
As I general rule, I try to avoid “the cheapest” in my purchases, especially when it comes to my vehicle. Tires, motor oil, fasteners, brake parts – no place for economy.
But spending almost fifty bucks for a “high performance” cabin air filter is absurd. Does K&N have such a reputation that people think they are going to improve their quarter-mile times with a fancy cabin filter?
That cheap STP filter is now in my Sonata. (The old one didn’t look that dirty. And I didn’t notice any evidence of rodent infestation either……) And for less than ten bucks – I’ll change it every year, whether it needs it or not.
Thanks again for the earlier advice and comments.
They say time heals all wounds. This is absolutely false when it comes to threaded fasteners in general, and lug nuts specifically. Lug nuts that haven’t been loosened in two or three years will all but inevitably become hard to remove, if not totally seized to the the stud.
Engineers of various specialities love to debate this sort of topic. Probably even more than the poor technicians and mechanics who have to deal with the consequences of their decisions.
In general, torque specifications refer to a “lubricated” thread. The method of lubrication carefully being omitted from the discussion. And – again – torque is itself an imperfect method of measuring the amount of preload on a threaded fastener. All that a torque wrench or Torque-Stick does is measure the amount of friction encountered as the fastener is preloaded.
In general terms, both anti-seize compounds and various greases will eventually, and inevitably, dry out. That is a product of entropy more than anything else.
As a general rule, if you want to prevent lug nuts becoming seized to the stud. Or indeed the wheel itself becoming chemically bonded to the hub. There is one very simple method to prevent this from happening: Remove each wheel from the vehicle every six to twelve months or so, as part of a scheduled rotation and inspection process. You – or your customers – ought to be changing the oil at at least this frequency. The vehicle is already up in the air. So it is the work of a few moments to the opportunity to get the wheels off and on againf – consistent with the presence of unidirectional tire rotation and front/rear tire sizing constraints.
[quote=”Chevyman21″ post=151355]Just do it, your respiratory system and your ventilation system will thank you.[/quote]
I’m assuming you mean the respiratory system on ME, and the ventilation system on my CAR… 😆
Thanks for your answer. That makes a lot of sense. I haven’t noticed any diminution of the blower fans effectiveness – but it can’t hurt to swap it that filter out for a new one. My lungs – and my defogger – will thank you.
[quote=”plokiu” post=151275]However, I am curious how much do we the consumer save? Is the difference significant amount of money between all disc vs. disk+drum in terms of both the new car window price and the maintenance/repair cost?[/quote]
The main area of cost saving with drums is that you don’t need a separate mechanism for the parking brake.
Cost-engineering is a huge factor in the ways cars get made. And a savings of $10 or $20 in components would be enough for the bean-counters to make that call on vehicles with no pretensions at “sportiness” or high performance. By the time that part makes it to the showroom – that probably adds another $100 or more to the price of the car.
From the consumer standpoint, its also worth noting that rear drum brakes seem to last a long time. My parents had a couple of cars that went over 100,000 miles without needing the rear (drum) brakes resurfaced.
Another great video, Eric.
In a former life I managed a business that had a small machine shop; so I get a little misty-eyed watching metal turn and chips fly. We were turning hydraulic cylinders and specialty shafts, so a lot of time there was cooling fluid involved – which added another little complication to the process.
A brake lathe is probably out-of-reach for all but the most enthusiastic – and well-heeled – DIY’ers. But I’m sure that there are still times when the economics, and engineering specs, combine to make turning a rotor or drum practical, especially in the independent shop, which often works with customers on a budget, and has an hourly labor rate somewhat below the stratospheric regions many Dealerships now boast.
As a car enthusiast, I have somewhat mixed feelings about the way so few manufacturers permit rotor machining in their specs. To keep weight – and especially unsprung weight – to a minimum, they are designing these components with the minimum practical amount of metal from the factory. Which usually means by the time the pads are worn, the rotor can no longer take a turn on the lathe. How much those extra few ounces of cast iron bouncing up and down on your wheel hub would effect handling; gas mileage; or 0-60 times – I don’t know. But it sure keeps the guys at the parts counter in business.
Once you get into performance-car territory – with drilled rotors or – heaven forbid – carbon/ceramic rotors as found on Ferraris and high-end Porsches – I suspect the machining option is totally off the table. And an incredibly expensive trip to the parts counter is in order. But I guess if you can afford a Lamborghini Aventador, thats maybe not so much of an issue.
Thanks again , Eric. Informative and entertaining, as usual.
Great video.
One thing that video reminded me of: I’m sometimes a little surprised at how much “violence” there seems to be in auto repair. Especially for folks who have to fix vehicles that are past their warranty period.
Hammers, air-powered and otherwise, plus large pry bars and the occasional 20-ton press seem to be a part of daily existence for people working with suspension and brake parts that have been marinating in North American Highway Sauce for a decade or two.
In general, the engineering half of my brain tells me that wheel bearings aren’t really a wear item on most personal automobiles. They are designed to last the life of the vehicle. But the reality is that seals are imperfect, and that poor alignment and violent impacts with curbs can put strains on rollers and seals they weren’t meant to take.
That video also made me think of the dilemma facing Flat Rate mechanics. If the book tells you a certain operation should take 1.5 FR hours – and you get confronted with a part seized or rusted in place. I wouldn’t blame a Tech for a second for junking the part and telling the customer he needs a new one from the parts dept.
The difference the DIY’er has is this: He sometimes may not have that option. It might be Sunday afternoon, the parts store is closed, and he needs to get that vehicle back on the road by Monday AM. Or he might not have the money for a new part. Or – especially on obscure or very old vehicles – it may not be available at all.
I tip my cap to every mechanic whose ever toiled for hours under circumstances like Eric did with that wheel bearing.