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You can send a sample of your used oil for analysis…
It will tell you how your engine is doing based on oil atlease…
It has some cleaning properties in oil or gas.
For most part I’d call it Snake Oil. It wont do magic, it wont turn an abused engine into shiny thing.I would use it if you get for 5 bucks a bottle , use every once in while as upper cylinder lubricant and thats all.
Not worth much more than that.
As for as for injector cleaning : Techron does better job at cleaning injectors.
As far as for engine cleaning : Having higher quality oil is most important thing, additives do more bad than good in most cases.Penzzoil makes fine oil for cleaning , even their PYB does a great job, no need for additive unless your buying non name brand stuff.
Cheers,
It has some cleaning properties in oil or gas.
For most part I’d call it Snake Oil. It wont do magic, it wont turn an abused engine into shiny thing.I would use it if you get for 5 bucks a bottle , use every once in while as upper cylinder lubricant and thats all.
Not worth much more than that.
As for as for injector cleaning : Techron does better job at cleaning injectors.
As far as for engine cleaning : Having higher quality oil is most important thing, additives do more bad than good in most cases.Penzzoil makes fine oil for cleaning , even their PYB does a great job, no need for additive unless your buying non name brand stuff.
Cheers,
[quote=”2000SilveradoGuy” post=86907]Hello, I need help with a 4l60-e transmission in a 2000 Silverado. Just recently I had started having a unique problem. When it’s 20 degrees out in the morning, I start the truck and let it warm up. When it’s cold out like this, the trans goes 1-2, and then from 2nd to 3rd it delays (always at 2500rpm) it shift into 3rd. no harsh shift just normal. When it’s 35 degrees or so out it does not do it at all. It stops when the trans gets warm. It really only does it down my road at my house and when I get to the stop sign at the end (about 1.5 miles) it does perfect. It does not slip at all. I have crisp shifts, on time, across the board. I had it diagnosed at two places and one said it’s fine. The other said it’s a sticking valve. I talked to one other person who said it could be a temp sensor. Does this sound correct? What about the throttle pressure cable? Or the modulator? I have no trans codes or engine lights/codes. I am at wits end with this thing. Do I need the valve body cleaned? trans rebuild? It an older unit and I don’t really know the history of trans fluid changes. I don’t want it to start slipping if I pull the pan and put new fluid. Fluid is red and appears clean.[/quote]
Hi,
My 2000 accord tranny failed completly so I looked into tranny problems…If the problem is happening only when cold and no other time, could be that your fluid is NOT maintainly proper vescosity in cold, its either cause of old fluid ( not neccesary dirty tho ) or poor choice of fluid. Engines can have hard time starting and get going too in cold condition. Unfornatley, you cant change the ATF as you wish .
If you drive a good amount, and you dont get check engine light or unpleasant shifting. I would just let it be unless you plan on taking the car on road trip…
My accord had the common shifting problem for atlease 3 months before I got a check engine light.
I only decided to bother with it because I was going on a trip.As you know , changing the ATF after a while could do more bad than good. sometimes kills the tranny.
Only option left is having an inline filter, wix makes one for about 15 bux on amazon.If the fluid color looks good, and stays consistence I would let it be.
Cheers.
[quote=”2000SilveradoGuy” post=86907]Hello, I need help with a 4l60-e transmission in a 2000 Silverado. Just recently I had started having a unique problem. When it’s 20 degrees out in the morning, I start the truck and let it warm up. When it’s cold out like this, the trans goes 1-2, and then from 2nd to 3rd it delays (always at 2500rpm) it shift into 3rd. no harsh shift just normal. When it’s 35 degrees or so out it does not do it at all. It stops when the trans gets warm. It really only does it down my road at my house and when I get to the stop sign at the end (about 1.5 miles) it does perfect. It does not slip at all. I have crisp shifts, on time, across the board. I had it diagnosed at two places and one said it’s fine. The other said it’s a sticking valve. I talked to one other person who said it could be a temp sensor. Does this sound correct? What about the throttle pressure cable? Or the modulator? I have no trans codes or engine lights/codes. I am at wits end with this thing. Do I need the valve body cleaned? trans rebuild? It an older unit and I don’t really know the history of trans fluid changes. I don’t want it to start slipping if I pull the pan and put new fluid. Fluid is red and appears clean.[/quote]
Hi,
My 2000 accord tranny failed completly so I looked into tranny problems…If the problem is happening only when cold and no other time, could be that your fluid is NOT maintainly proper vescosity in cold, its either cause of old fluid ( not neccesary dirty tho ) or poor choice of fluid. Engines can have hard time starting and get going too in cold condition. Unfornatley, you cant change the ATF as you wish .
If you drive a good amount, and you dont get check engine light or unpleasant shifting. I would just let it be unless you plan on taking the car on road trip…
My accord had the common shifting problem for atlease 3 months before I got a check engine light.
I only decided to bother with it because I was going on a trip.As you know , changing the ATF after a while could do more bad than good. sometimes kills the tranny.
Only option left is having an inline filter, wix makes one for about 15 bux on amazon.If the fluid color looks good, and stays consistence I would let it be.
Cheers.
[quote=”Raf99″ post=86466][quote=”college man” post=86462]The ecu checks once a day on morning start up.[/quote]
Weird, It takes 7+ days for the light to come on. Probably many different conditions applying to this. Could also be a IMAP/solenoid issue as well.
But thanks for your help.[/quote]
Thats strange , unless its pending code.
If you have a vacuum leak it shouldn’t take that long for it to come on unless you dont drive the car. I’d blame a sensor more than anything if thats the case.[quote=”Raf99″ post=86466][quote=”college man” post=86462]The ecu checks once a day on morning start up.[/quote]
Weird, It takes 7+ days for the light to come on. Probably many different conditions applying to this. Could also be a IMAP/solenoid issue as well.
But thanks for your help.[/quote]
Thats strange , unless its pending code.
If you have a vacuum leak it shouldn’t take that long for it to come on unless you dont drive the car. I’d blame a sensor more than anything if thats the case.[quote=”Hanneman” post=86151]I would have it checked out. The pedal shouldn’t travel to the floor under normal braking conditions.
Did you use new brake fluid from a sealed container? Brake fluid is hydroscopic and will absorb water from the air over time after the seal is broken. I would not trust an opened container of brake fluid that sat on a shelf in my garage for a year or more.
Another quick check for buldges in the flexible brake lines when the brakes are applied – i.e. the pressurized brake fluid is causing the line to buldge instead of pushing the caliper piston(s).
The master cylinder is another suspect, but I don’t have much experience here. Hopefully, someone else does.[/quote]
Hi,
yes I used freshly opened bottle of Valvoline dot3/dot4 breakfluid.
I heard their breakfluid is best one after OE.
No visible Buldging or other problems with the hoes as far as I can tell.It must be MC or air in system.
[quote=”Hanneman” post=86151]I would have it checked out. The pedal shouldn’t travel to the floor under normal braking conditions.
Did you use new brake fluid from a sealed container? Brake fluid is hydroscopic and will absorb water from the air over time after the seal is broken. I would not trust an opened container of brake fluid that sat on a shelf in my garage for a year or more.
Another quick check for buldges in the flexible brake lines when the brakes are applied – i.e. the pressurized brake fluid is causing the line to buldge instead of pushing the caliper piston(s).
The master cylinder is another suspect, but I don’t have much experience here. Hopefully, someone else does.[/quote]
Hi,
yes I used freshly opened bottle of Valvoline dot3/dot4 breakfluid.
I heard their breakfluid is best one after OE.
No visible Buldging or other problems with the hoes as far as I can tell.It must be MC or air in system.
[quote=”barneyb” post=86357]A remanufactured part, if that is what the shop used when they replaced your master cylinder, and this applies to other parts such as starters and alternators as well, usually don’t last like a new OEM part. I have had good luck with remanufactured calipers. Those are apparently pretty simple to get right. The quality of a remanufactured master cylinder, on the other hand, would depend on the quality of the bore and the quality of the material the seals are made of.[/quote]
I sold the car to my uncle he did service at a shop he trusted, I doubt they used quality parts. alot of shops dont , thast why I started to do my own repairs. I bought the car back after a bad accident with my Corolla.
I dont want to blame it on the master cylinder yet, I am trying to borrow one of those fansy phenoix bleeders in order to completely rule out air in the system.
You seem to know alot about breaks,
one question I have is this :
Is there a diffrence between closing the bleeder while the pedal is down or up?
Eric simply pressed the pedal and closed it in his bleeding system video, alot of other videos suggest closing it when the pedal is almost to the floor , letting go of the pedal and continuing the cycle.I also ordered some REALLY flexable hose incase some air got into the rear bleeders. 8mm bleeders were hard to manage with my non-flexble hoes.
The fact that my breaking pedal is not consistance bothers me alot , I have confidence in breaks for city driving but a “break check” on highway gives me a slight worry.
THANKS!
[quote=”barneyb” post=86357]A remanufactured part, if that is what the shop used when they replaced your master cylinder, and this applies to other parts such as starters and alternators as well, usually don’t last like a new OEM part. I have had good luck with remanufactured calipers. Those are apparently pretty simple to get right. The quality of a remanufactured master cylinder, on the other hand, would depend on the quality of the bore and the quality of the material the seals are made of.[/quote]
I sold the car to my uncle he did service at a shop he trusted, I doubt they used quality parts. alot of shops dont , thast why I started to do my own repairs. I bought the car back after a bad accident with my Corolla.
I dont want to blame it on the master cylinder yet, I am trying to borrow one of those fansy phenoix bleeders in order to completely rule out air in the system.
You seem to know alot about breaks,
one question I have is this :
Is there a diffrence between closing the bleeder while the pedal is down or up?
Eric simply pressed the pedal and closed it in his bleeding system video, alot of other videos suggest closing it when the pedal is almost to the floor , letting go of the pedal and continuing the cycle.I also ordered some REALLY flexable hose incase some air got into the rear bleeders. 8mm bleeders were hard to manage with my non-flexble hoes.
The fact that my breaking pedal is not consistance bothers me alot , I have confidence in breaks for city driving but a “break check” on highway gives me a slight worry.
THANKS!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=86281]Honestly, I would not have chosen those parts. There are better quality parts out there more suited to imports. That said, it sounds like you’ve made some progress. I was going to suggest this as I’ve run into these issues in the past, particularly on Hondas.
That information was also in the article I posted on your other post BTW.
You might also find this interesting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsaEtMaW6Qw%5B/quote%5D
Thanks Eric for your continous support i didnt even think to look athe shimes.
In your opinion if this is the 2nd master cylinder going bad (possibly),what should i be looking at. I dont think its normal for them to fail every 20-25k.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=86281]Honestly, I would not have chosen those parts. There are better quality parts out there more suited to imports. That said, it sounds like you’ve made some progress. I was going to suggest this as I’ve run into these issues in the past, particularly on Hondas.
That information was also in the article I posted on your other post BTW.
You might also find this interesting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsaEtMaW6Qw%5B/quote%5D
Thanks Eric for your continous support i didnt even think to look athe shimes.
In your opinion if this is the 2nd master cylinder going bad (possibly),what should i be looking at. I dont think its normal for them to fail every 20-25k.
Hi there,
Buying NKG or Denso is much more important than the type of plug, NKG and Denso make higher quality product no matter what compared to a company like autolite. I heard on diffrent forums that if you have a Honda, Denso or NKG is a must. Denso is OE for alot of Honda parts anyway, why not use them.Double platinum usually lasts longer than Iridium XI but on amazon the difference arent much alot of times ( in case you have access to Amazon ).
As long as its platinum or iridium buy one that is cheapest shouldnt be a big deal aside from that.
Older hondas come with double platnium and they should be good for 80-100k versus iridium XI 60-80k.’
The “XI” is performance oriented, probably mostly marketing anyway.Cheers,
Always use a sparkplug socket if you have never done the job, the build in magnet literally will save your sanity.
I went with iridium XI as the price diffrence was less than a dollar per piece on my 2000 accord.
Hi there,
Buying NKG or Denso is much more important than the type of plug, NKG and Denso make higher quality product no matter what compared to a company like autolite. I heard on diffrent forums that if you have a Honda, Denso or NKG is a must. Denso is OE for alot of Honda parts anyway, why not use them.Double platinum usually lasts longer than Iridium XI but on amazon the difference arent much alot of times ( in case you have access to Amazon ).
As long as its platinum or iridium buy one that is cheapest shouldnt be a big deal aside from that.
Older hondas come with double platnium and they should be good for 80-100k versus iridium XI 60-80k.’
The “XI” is performance oriented, probably mostly marketing anyway.Cheers,
Always use a sparkplug socket if you have never done the job, the build in magnet literally will save your sanity.
I went with iridium XI as the price diffrence was less than a dollar per piece on my 2000 accord.