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As I said, I have used these and haven’t had any issues so far.
I now see that Raybestos and MOOG make these as well. Has anyone used these? Are they equal too or better than Monroe?
yes, Its a timing chain, the water pump is run by the serpentine belt, not the timing belt. I didn’t change it cause I needed the money to put more work into the GF’s Civic.
Changed the front motor mount on the civic this weekend, when I took out the mount, the center fell out, so I think it was bad…
I have installed them on my old car, a 2002 Alero and on my GF’s 2001 Honda Civic. They are great. The ride quality is about the same as OEM, these are NOT performance struts, if you read other forums they whine how there suck. But they are usually performance forums. The bearing plate and everything are decent. The case of the Honda, it seems to that they where heavier duty threads coming off the bearing plate. For ease of install, these things rock! I can swap one of these out in under 30 min. with an impact gun.
It sounds like Air / fuel to me if you have done all that. I have had 2 3800’s and a 3400 series engine, so I have dealt with these some. I would have the car hooked up to a computer and get the codes its dumping. This is a good place to start. I would think it could be an injector. O2 sensor or a fuel pump.
Put I am sure its dumping codes, that is where I would start. I think a 95 should have a way to show you the codes via the dash.. do some googling to find out.
My first ride as a 1988 Nissan Maxima. White with tan suede leather (how many cars do you find that on now?). It was a decent car with a 3.0 ltr engine. Only problem was I grew from 5′ 10″ when I got it my junior year to 6′ 3″ my senior year. We had to part ways was I wasn’t comfortable with my knees on the dashboard. Then I got my baby, a 1989 Cadillac Coupe Deville. Red with the fake convertible top and gold package with grey skirting. Great car, ran it till it was almost dead with 165,000 on it.
I got this done on Friday night. Got it all back together, installed new accessory belts, new tensioner, water pump and coolant. Seems to be running like a champion. Ran it hard and it was fine.
The seafoam top end treatment i gave it last week seemed to help too. Luckily I don’t have a lot of neighbors around me cause that made a lot of smoke…
Thanks every for you help. Eric thanks for all the videos, makes working on things like this a lot easier.
Well, last night I got most of it back together. just have the alternator belt back on but since its new I have to do the 5 min. break-in thing and then loosen it. After that I will put the powersteering pump in with its new belt and do that same. Hopefully it will start fine today (didn’t feel like starting it at 2am and have it fail) and I can bang those 2 things out and then finish the cooling system flush.
but it looks good, I could spin the engine with out pistons and valves banging, so it *should* be good.
thanks eveyone! I’ll let you know how it goes tonight / tomorrow (got to watch the pens game after all).
This video Mimics the instructions I got with the timing belt kit I got. (belt, water pump, tensioner).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTUDMqGV … re=related
I am going ot get a new bolt, throw a little blue locktite on it and install it to 27 ft/lbs for the cam shaft bolt issue.
I left the head on when I pull this apart, just loosened it enough to get the upper cover off. So I wouldn’t loose them, I put the plugs back in (but not to torque),. a major *derp* on my part. I’ll pull the plugs so it isn’t compression the air in the cylinders, thus causing it to be hard to turn. I know better than this, derp.
thanks everyone for your help. I’ll let you know how it turns out tonight, hopefully it starts up and I can get the new accessory belts on it tonight and flush the cooling system out with some distilled water before I put in new coolant.
here is the problem, per the instructions, I am supposed to rotate the cam shaft pulley 2 times counter clockwise, each time check to see if its Top Dead Center. As I do this, I get halfway around and then it gets tight and the Cam Shaft pulley bolt turns loose so it won’t turn anymore.
I carefully put the crankshaft bolt back in and slowly moved it back to Top Dead Center on the CamShaft pulley and the arrow and the line match up on Cranshaft pulley, so its back to Top Dead Center.
Am I doing something wrong here? am I going to break this engine? Sorry, but I am uber-frustrated right now as this is just going horribly bad right now.
Any help would be appreciated.
Eric, I didn’t see your response, yea, I didn’t use RTV. Easy water pump to put on honestly.
I have everything lined up nicely, but the cam sprocket bolt came lose as I stated above. The Torque on that is 27 ft/lbs right? Should I get a new bolt or should I just toss on some Red Lock tight (which I hate to do) but should allow this to work.
Also, to tighten the belt and do a couple spins of the engine before i tighten down the tensioner, should I just run in the Crank shaft bolt and spin the engine that way? would that accomplish the same thing?
I talked to a mechanic friend tonight while I watched that horrid pens game, and he looked at me and said, “i have never ahd that happen and I changed these a lot”. LOL, this stuff always happens to me.
Nascar is my favorite, but I do enjoy 1/4 drags as well.
Open wheel does nothing for me, except for indy, just since its indy.
After looking at it and wiping it down, I think mine is from the oil pan gasket. Its oily all alone the gasket and the right side of the lower timing belt cover was cracked at the right bold, so stuff could have gotten in there.
I wiped it all down and will clean around the oil pan gasket before I put it all together. A new timing belt cover is 20 bucks, so I’ll just pick one up, I don’t like the idea of a lot of grime getting all up on the timing belt.
Thanks for your answers! I am going to leave this open for now to see if anyone else has some ideas.