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I didn’t touch the MAP at all. I went through and checked for a vaccum leak and there wasn’t any. So I was about to buy an IAC for it. But I read on some forums that PCV valves have caused this too.
So, I figured this thing wasn’t maintained correctly so the likely hood of it being bad was high. So I swapped it out with a new one (with a new crush washer as well). Got some gas in it and took it out for a run. Drove it on local roads and got it up to highway speed. I left it drop idle from various speed and stops and parking and it was fine.
So the idle seems fine and it is running really well. Now if it does the idle issue again, I’ll swap out the IAC and that should do it.
Thanks again everyone. This forum has saved me so much money.
As they say, the hits keep on coming.
The exhaust is great now, no leaking and the car sounds a lot better and has more power. I also fixed the airbox where the airfilter is placed with new screws so it actually seals.
But now when it is idling its running at 1,000 rpm and will surge up and down from 1,000 rpm to 2,000 rpm. I was getting a P0505, which is a Air Control Valve issue. So I cleaned the Air Control Valve. It seems to have helped but it will still do the surging idle, but the P0505 code seems to have been cleared up. Now I am getting a P1129 code (MAP sensor code). I believe this sensor is in the airbox which as I said before, was repaired. I don’t want to start throwing 50 to 150 dollar sensors on this.
Is there a way to clean the MAP, I have MAF sensor cleaner for my Buick, could that clean this? I have read posts here, that says it is a timing issue. I did change this timing belt a few months back. But I am not having the stalling issue that is described in that link.
Just to make sure I am not off-base and waste time, here is what I am thinking of doing”
1. clean the MAP with MAF sensor cleaner.
2. disconnect the batter and reset the computer in the car.
3. drive it for a bit and see if this remedies the issue
4. if issue keeps happening, start with a new MAP sensor.Does this sound like a good starting point?
As they say, the hits keep on coming.
The exhaust is great now, no leaking and the car sounds a lot better and has more power. I also fixed the airbox where the airfilter is placed with new screws so it actually seals.
But now when it is idling its running at 1,000 rpm and will surge up and down from 1,000 rpm to 2,000 rpm. I was getting a P0505, which is a Air Control Valve issue. So I cleaned the Air Control Valve. It seems to have helped but it will still do the surging idle, but the P0505 code seems to have been cleared up. Now I am getting a P1129 code (MAP sensor code). I believe this sensor is in the airbox which as I said before, was repaired. I don’t want to start throwing 50 to 150 dollar sensors on this.
Is there a way to clean the MAP, I have MAF sensor cleaner for my Buick, could that clean this? I have read posts here, that says it is a timing issue. I did change this timing belt a few months back. But I am not having the stalling issue that is described in that link.
Just to make sure I am not off-base and waste time, here is what I am thinking of doing”
1. clean the MAP with MAF sensor cleaner.
2. disconnect the batter and reset the computer in the car.
3. drive it for a bit and see if this remedies the issue
4. if issue keeps happening, start with a new MAP sensor.Does this sound like a good starting point?
LOL, I guess I know what I am doing this afternoon. I will be removing the nuts and wiping down the studs with alcohol. Thanks Eric, this will save me frustration in the long term.
LOL, I guess I know what I am doing this afternoon. I will be removing the nuts and wiping down the studs with alcohol. Thanks Eric, this will save me frustration in the long term.
I got it all cleaned up, got the new bolts and gasket from the Honda dealer. One last question before I put it back together.
Should I anti-seize the bolts / studs that connect the exhaust manifold to the engine?
*Edit* I used anti-sieze on the studs and bolts. Its all back together, I just need to put the air box back on it. I figured while it was getting welded, I would clean the throttle bottle as the throttle sticked a bit. its all clean and ready to go.
Its missing some of the screws to hold the top of the airbox on to the bottom. So I am going to lowe’s to get a few screws and bolts to just bolt it back together. Better than dropping 50 bucks on a new airbox.
I’ll let yinz know how it runs tomorrow after work.
I got it all cleaned up, got the new bolts and gasket from the Honda dealer. One last question before I put it back together.
Should I anti-seize the bolts / studs that connect the exhaust manifold to the engine?
*Edit* I used anti-sieze on the studs and bolts. Its all back together, I just need to put the air box back on it. I figured while it was getting welded, I would clean the throttle bottle as the throttle sticked a bit. its all clean and ready to go.
Its missing some of the screws to hold the top of the airbox on to the bottom. So I am going to lowe’s to get a few screws and bolts to just bolt it back together. Better than dropping 50 bucks on a new airbox.
I’ll let yinz know how it runs tomorrow after work.
I use synthetic so I don’t have to change my oil ever couple months. I pull 5k to 8k per change on a GM 3800 Series III and have no issues with my motor what so ever. I hit 95k this week and its still running strong.
BTW, at least here, walmart has quakerstate synthetic for 26 bucks for a 5 quart jug, can’t beat it with a stick.
I use synthetic so I don’t have to change my oil ever couple months. I pull 5k to 8k per change on a GM 3800 Series III and have no issues with my motor what so ever. I hit 95k this week and its still running strong.
BTW, at least here, walmart has quakerstate synthetic for 26 bucks for a 5 quart jug, can’t beat it with a stick.
I got this thing all apart and ready for welding. I am not well acquainted with the angle grinder and had to drill out a spring bolt from the bottom, first time I had done that. Should have done that many other times as it was much easier than I thought.
Here are some pictures of it. As you can see this car has been through 11 hard winters in Pa / Oh.
I think I found the crack, the weld at the number 1 cylinder.
The spring bolt was here.
The top right bolt I had to grind off.
I am surprised this didn’t go bad at the gasket.
I got this thing all apart and ready for welding. I am not well acquainted with the angle grinder and had to drill out a spring bolt from the bottom, first time I had done that. Should have done that many other times as it was much easier than I thought.
Here are some pictures of it. As you can see this car has been through 11 hard winters in Pa / Oh.
I think I found the crack, the weld at the number 1 cylinder.
The spring bolt was here.
The top right bolt I had to grind off.
I am surprised this didn’t go bad at the gasket.
I finally got around to work on this car again. After building a set for a musical, my back decided it didn’t like to work anymore. So working under a car was out for a bit. Chiropractor finally fixed that issue.
I got the bolt ground down with an angle grinder and hit it with a hammer a few times and it loosened up. The bolt holding the exhaust on i blasted with PB Blaster and let it soak for a few days. One spring bolt came off, one snapped, but they needed replaced anyway.
It cracked at the weld between the mounting plate on the top where it mounts to the engine and into the manifold. Is this common? It seems like it will be easy to get it fixed down at the local welding shop.
Now this thing is a mess, the bolt holding it onto the lower bracket is all rusted up, i too the bracket off the engine instead. Also, the heat shield on the top is pretty much totaled from the angle grinding and rusting through the lower bolt locations. Is that shield really needed?
I’ll post pictures when I get a chance.
thanks everyone!
I finally got around to work on this car again. After building a set for a musical, my back decided it didn’t like to work anymore. So working under a car was out for a bit. Chiropractor finally fixed that issue.
I got the bolt ground down with an angle grinder and hit it with a hammer a few times and it loosened up. The bolt holding the exhaust on i blasted with PB Blaster and let it soak for a few days. One spring bolt came off, one snapped, but they needed replaced anyway.
It cracked at the weld between the mounting plate on the top where it mounts to the engine and into the manifold. Is this common? It seems like it will be easy to get it fixed down at the local welding shop.
Now this thing is a mess, the bolt holding it onto the lower bracket is all rusted up, i too the bracket off the engine instead. Also, the heat shield on the top is pretty much totaled from the angle grinding and rusting through the lower bolt locations. Is that shield really needed?
I’ll post pictures when I get a chance.
thanks everyone!
Sounds like a plan, either going to get out the torches or the angle grinder. Depends which one I can find first.
thanks Eric
I got into it and got it up in the air and started it. Had the tailpipe blocked and checked it out. The gasket and B pipe are fine coming off the manifold. I found the leak coming from the right side of the engine (passenger side) by where the manifold and engine meet.
This car is an outside car, so taking the cover off while it is on the car isn’t happening. Half the bolt heads are rusted off. So I went to take the manifold off and stripped the top right bolt (looking at the engine) that holds on the manifold and cover.
Any suggestions on how to get a rounded bolt out? When I put this back together, I will be buying new bolts / nuts, especially if I can get this thing welded.
thanks for all your help everyone, as always, it is greatly appreciated.
