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Thanks! I should coat the whole back and sides of it then, lol.. I had to use an airhammer to get them out. Woohoo! Northeast Corrosion!
yep, hell if Eric would want to do a timing belt video on a subaru boxer, I am not that far from his shop… haha, I am sure he gets that All the time.
yea, those are in my plan after I get it to the point I can move it to the other side of my garage where my tools and better lighting is. I grabbed a 6 pack of LED shop lights and my one bay will soon have them so they are all around the car. Getting old means I need more light. 🙂
I need to rebuild the 2 front calipers so after that I am going to flush out the brakes. the coolant is a given. The belts are newer, I put them on 4 years ago but they have like 20k on them. no fuel filter on 2006 models and up (I hate that, I want a filter) and I will check the battery cables when I put the new bat-tery in it. I am also flushing the coolant when I do that, I’ll do new hoses and a thermostat. Because when will the thermostat go? right after a fluid change.
thanks!
I got the big pry bar out and recharged the sawzall and got it out. Once it was out and I got the new strut in the top and the spring was seated right. I used the trusty floor jack and got the bottom control are and shot and spring all happy. Then used a grade 8 bolt, washer, locker washer and nut with some red loctite and put it all back together. Then torque spec’d it.
Thanks for your help
yea, that is what I bought, I got a lock washer too. I got it all apart and the new springs in (the bottom of the right spring was broken off). Went to get the sway arm linkages off as I ate the crap out of them getting them out of the control arm with vise grips. Cut the sway bar end off the left one like any good rust belt shade tree would do with a sawzall ( the grinder gave out the magic smoke last month, just haven’t grabbed a new one yet) and cut it off, and it won’t come out of the hole, of the sway bar…. lol…. so after the holiday, I will grab an air hammer and fix that issue. haha. Looks like a black friday deal on a new angle grinder is happen too.
didn’t change the timing chain, it was tight and looked fine. After cleaning up all the gasket off the engine block and the timing belt cover, I put it all back together and its running fine. Took it out to dinner tonight with the family. Thanks for your help!
heh, everyone goes for the coolant eblows. 🙂 Such a weak point.
I swapped them out when I did the radiator and put in the metal ones so they aren’t the leak. I pulled off the coils and the board behind it and the mount and watched it leak below the water pump. I have the power steering pump off, the belt tensioner and such, so I might as well just pull the balancer and the cover. After thinking about it, I can check out the timing chain while i am in there as the car has 165k on it. Probably not a bad idea. Thanks for the input! 🙂
This is odd, I pulled the radiator, looked it over and didn’t see anything that says it blew but water and antifreeze all over the bottom of it. Also, when I picked her up, I looked at it and it was all covered in coolant.
So I pull it cap the bottom outlet and fill it with water.. no leaks.. okay, blow into it, no leaks..
Put it back in the car (with out the fans), fill with distilled water, started the car.. no leaks.. wait unit it hit operating temp, took off my spill proof funnel and capped it and let it run.. no leaks…
I have no idea why this thing leaked.. could it be the crimped joint between the plastic and metal is only going to pop at certain pressures?
I did put in metal coolant elbows, and I a still getting a bit of leak, but I don’t think that could be part of this issue, why was the coolant gone and everything around the bottom passenger side radiator wet?
yea, I thought it blew out a new hose, I was like I didn’t buy cheap hoses… Reach down, hose is intact and covered on the outside with coolant.. from about halfway up the rad on the passenger side is where it blew out.
When I finish pulling out today tonight I’ll take a picture when I find the actual blow out spot
That is my plan from the get-go. I was just shocked by how badly it drove. I was hoping to be able to drive it for a day or so until I can get it into a shop.. It’s so bad the front left tire screeches around corners.. lol…
I now know when they say the car is pushing and pulling at the same time in Nascar.. Wow is it bad… Besides that the suspension feels great over the crappy roads here.
The impact is a great idea too. But I got one of those new Dewalt impacts and the medium setting could do it, but the high setting hits at the 500 ft.lbs. I haven’t gotten the feel for it yet, so….
My torque wrench maxes at 150 ft/lbs. so I’ll give it to that and then 1 to 1.5 Unga Unga’s with a brearker bar.
Thanks a ton! I got it all back together now I just need to torque it all down. Did a left rear wheel hub /bearing due to a bad wheel speed sensor and struts on both sides (they were shot, don’t buy unity (I know, no sh**)).
AC Delco quick struts seem to be moogs and I pulled the part number off the a.c. delco strut and besides an AC Delco sticker, the bump stop and everything else matches as well as the part number stamped on the side.
I’ll put the tires on and drop it onto 2 subaru rims (another project) layed down so I can get under it safely and torque everything down while it has weight on it so I don’t stress the new bushings.
Thanks again!
VladI think I am going to pull the back seat and drill a hole from the top. Break off the remainder of the captive bolt and put a washer and nut in from the top.
I’ll drill a smaller hole on the other side so I can use my bore-scope and wd-40 flex hose can and lubricate those bolts before removal…
sound like a good plan?